Handlebar installation
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Club Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 57
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From: Pittsburgh
Handlebar installation
So, I'm new to the bike world and have little-to-no idea how long things take to do. I am however a very competent software developer and know that things can take a lot longer to program than people think. So I understand that from the outside things that look very simply sometimes aren't.
That being said I almost wet myself when my dealer told me it would take 8 hours to install handlebars on my Forty-Eight. I wanted to buy the RSD Vintage Short Stacks and have the mirrors mounted as they are on the current handlebars, underneath.
Can anyone comment on the amount of labor involved in changing handlebars?
They quoted 1.5 hours for exhaust, which I thought was a bit high, but is well within reason since I can't do it myself. Honestly it's what I expected for handlebars as well.
That being said I almost wet myself when my dealer told me it would take 8 hours to install handlebars on my Forty-Eight. I wanted to buy the RSD Vintage Short Stacks and have the mirrors mounted as they are on the current handlebars, underneath.
Can anyone comment on the amount of labor involved in changing handlebars?
They quoted 1.5 hours for exhaust, which I thought was a bit high, but is well within reason since I can't do it myself. Honestly it's what I expected for handlebars as well.
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 423
Likes: 1
From: London, UK
I've not fitted a set of these but I would say save ya money and do it your self, save the cash and buy more parts lol
It's always the way, things which look easy take hours and things which look Like hours of work take 5 mins to finish lol
I've been looking at a set of RSD Vintage Short Stacks, so would also like to know time scales for fitting these
It's always the way, things which look easy take hours and things which look Like hours of work take 5 mins to finish lol
I've been looking at a set of RSD Vintage Short Stacks, so would also like to know time scales for fitting these
Last edited by ironhide_uk; Jan 6, 2011 at 11:08 AM.
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Club Member
Joined: Dec 2010
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From: Pittsburgh
Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,785
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From: Louisiana
A full days work to install bars? Teh hell? Shouldnt take but a couple hours, at most. If you're worried pick up a service manual...if you have common sense, can read, and tools you can easily handle it.
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 73
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From: Orlando
I just swapped my mini apes to drag bars (posted the thread a couple days ago, it took longer than I thought because the previous owners had stripped the allens on the riser. The electrical will take a while if you need to lengthen (I did not have to do that). The part I was most concerned with most was taking off the primary cover and the amount of fluid coming out. Bleeding the brakes took a liitle while longer which I don't feel the manual helped enough with.
I have to say I had as much fun wrenching as I do riding.
Couple of good things came out as a result #1 I saved a lot of money. #2 I learned new things about my bike. I'm now in the market for a 2nd bike project bike... Can't wait.
Couple things I did before I started
-bought the manual, read the procedures several times, cleaned my garage, organized/found the tools that would be needed. Seems obvious but last thing I wanted was to get pissed off while working on my baby!
Hope this helps, good luck
I have to say I had as much fun wrenching as I do riding.
Couple of good things came out as a result #1 I saved a lot of money. #2 I learned new things about my bike. I'm now in the market for a 2nd bike project bike... Can't wait.
Couple things I did before I started
-bought the manual, read the procedures several times, cleaned my garage, organized/found the tools that would be needed. Seems obvious but last thing I wanted was to get pissed off while working on my baby!
Hope this helps, good luck
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Eight hours to do it right (changing clutch, throttle, and brake lines, and splicing wire extensions, then clean up the entire project) is a little high, but I wouldn't be at all surprised if that's what the "book" calls for. It would only take about 30 minutes if you didn't have to change anything else, though...
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 4,007
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From: Manassas, VA
First, before you do anything, get a bunch of old towels to protect your bike. Yes, have brake fluid on hand (might as well change your primary fluid, too - with new gasket). Check your master cylinder top cover for the proper version of brake fluid. It'll be in the circular writting. I think your bike will take DOT 4, but you better check. Clean out your master cylinder while it's empty. Don't take it all apart, just wipe it out kinda clean. Use brake fluid from a new, sealed container. It doesn't have to be Harley. DO NOT GET IT ON YOUR PAINT! You probably already know this stuff, but reminders are good.
Your front brake switch is inside the switch housing and the normal, brake lever out position the switch is pushed in. When you pull the brake lever, the switch is released and your light comes on. If you tie your lever back to the grip you'll drasticly reduce the potential for breaking the switch. The manual calls for a piece of cardboard between the lever and the brake mount, which does the same thing as tying it back. The pressure is relieved from the switch. Heck, do both if it makes you comfortable. Once you get the switch housing off you'll see what I mean. Experience is something you get right after you need it.
It's a pita to bleed the brake. I pumped and pumped and bled and bled and they still felt squishy. Finally, I put a bunch of rubberbands around the lever/grip overnight and gave the bleeder a crack open in the morning and it was all good.
Internal wiring is a whole other ball o' wax. It cleans up the bars a little and really isn't that difficult.
Get a manual and a torque wrench then go for it. We can help you out if you get stuck.
Your front brake switch is inside the switch housing and the normal, brake lever out position the switch is pushed in. When you pull the brake lever, the switch is released and your light comes on. If you tie your lever back to the grip you'll drasticly reduce the potential for breaking the switch. The manual calls for a piece of cardboard between the lever and the brake mount, which does the same thing as tying it back. The pressure is relieved from the switch. Heck, do both if it makes you comfortable. Once you get the switch housing off you'll see what I mean. Experience is something you get right after you need it.
It's a pita to bleed the brake. I pumped and pumped and bled and bled and they still felt squishy. Finally, I put a bunch of rubberbands around the lever/grip overnight and gave the bleeder a crack open in the morning and it was all good.
Internal wiring is a whole other ball o' wax. It cleans up the bars a little and really isn't that difficult.
Get a manual and a torque wrench then go for it. We can help you out if you get stuck.
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: So Cal
i jus installed RSD short stack on my 03 xl1200 sportster. I took me awhile to figure out how to disconnect the electrical without splicing the wires. But thanks to HD forum, there is a video clip on how to disconnect the wires inside the headlight. I also had to pull out the wire tucked into the stock handlebars. Overall, it feels good that I did it myself for a novice. its my first harley and i enjoy watching the transformation. I def have to get a service manual.
Last edited by t4r6n; Jan 6, 2011 at 11:28 PM. Reason: pics