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Old Aug 3, 2011 | 12:34 PM
  #11  
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Can you replace the came without taking the engine apart, like a bt? If so then do the heads now and the cam later. Just my thoughts.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2011 | 12:51 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by FlyinJ
Thanks for the replies, i want to do one or the other this winter and the other next year. I know I will be duplicating some work, but it is easier to part with smaller amounts here and there than 1 large amount of cash. I was really just wanting to know which will yield the most gains of the two, cams(n4) or stage 2 headwork.
Ummmm, you can't do stage 2 head work without cams..........

The most you could do is a port and polish.....
 
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Old Aug 3, 2011 | 12:54 PM
  #13  
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From: Landrum, SC , elevation 986'
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Originally Posted by rjm729
Can you replace the came without taking the engine apart, like a bt? If so then do the heads now and the cam later. Just my thoughts.
just so you know....yes you can do cams without taking the engine apart. You just have to remove the cam cover on the right and remove the rocker covers to relieve the pressure on the push rods.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2011 | 01:01 PM
  #14  
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From: Landrum, SC , elevation 986'
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This is a quote from NRHS

Camshaft Selection


"What cams should I use?" This is a question we get asked a LOT. While we've got packages that are designed and proven to work well together, some people like to understand a little more about the theory behind their parts, so here goes.



First and foremost, I want to debunk a major myth: your camshaft determines your powerband. Simply not true. It's ONE component of a series of components that determines your powerband. Others have a BIG influence, in particular your exhaust system has a big influence (or it can, if the cams let it, more on that in a minute). The most successful motors are the ones that get the cams working together with the ports, the compression, the motor size, and especially the exhaust. Entirely too many people look for cam miracles when trying to get more out of their motor. It ain't gonna happen. Get all the players on the same page, that's how you make power.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2011 | 03:53 PM
  #15  
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Put your money in the bank until you can do both. To do one without the other is pointless. Or just borrow the money. Aren't cams only like $300?
 
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Old Aug 3, 2011 | 07:33 PM
  #16  
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Cams are about $300, adjustable puchrods $100, collapsable pushrod tubes $100, assorted gaskets and seals $50ish, 4-6 hrs lab @ $70/hr, I'm not mecahnically inclined enough to go into engine, so total is about $800. New pushrods for added adjustment when I would do heads.
As for above comment that Stage 2 can not be done with out cams, local Harly Mecahnic and Dan form NHRS said it could be, but not as beneficial unless cams are upgraded as well.
General opinion is cams should be done prior to heads, and the Andrews N4 or SE .497 seems to be popular choices. Anyone who have only added these, what did you think???
 
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Old Aug 4, 2011 | 02:15 AM
  #17  
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You will notice a pretty good difference eitherway you go.If you're using the 883 heads a mild p+p with bigger valves and good springs will do quite a bit for the smile on your face.883 heads suck. Granted it won't pull as hard as the whole package but you will know somethings going on down there. rejetting will b a must and your gas milage will drop till you cam up but nothing wrong with doing the heads first.I agree one without the other will not yield the best results but if that's what you can afford go for it.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2011 | 05:33 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by FlyinJ
Cams are about $300, adjustable puchrods $100, collapsable pushrod tubes $100, assorted gaskets and seals $50ish, 4-6 hrs lab @ $70/hr, I'm not mecahnically inclined enough to go into engine, so total is about $800. New pushrods for added adjustment when I would do heads.
As for above comment that Stage 2 can not be done with out cams, local Harly Mecahnic and Dan form NHRS said it could be, but not as beneficial unless cams are upgraded as well.
General opinion is cams should be done prior to heads, and the Andrews N4 or SE .497 seems to be popular choices. Anyone who have only added these, what did you think???
Well, you won't need adjustable push rods or tubes if you do the cams at the same time as the heads. There is no way its and ADDITIONAL 4-6 hours for labor if doing this at the same time as the heads. I think I was charged 1 hour.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2011 | 04:11 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by FlyinJ
Cams are about $300, adjustable puchrods $100, collapsable pushrod tubes $100, assorted gaskets and seals $50ish, 4-6 hrs lab @ $70/hr, I'm not mecahnically inclined enough to go into engine, so total is about $800. and the Andrews N4 or SE .497 seems to be popular choices. Anyone who have only added these, what did you think???
I added N4's w/o headwork...much much much improved. Headwork comes this winter. Cams are not difficult to change out either. The n4's are bolt ons with no need to change pushrods or tubes or any of that. Hell, you might be able to get away with re-using the rocker cover gaskets again. Removing the rocker boxes to access your rockers to relieve pressure off the cams will be necessary but my no means difficult. If you can tune up your car, you can change out cams, give it a shot you might surprise yourself. And if it doesn't work out well you can still paay the shop to finish the job.
 
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