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I started a thread a while back about the front forks bottoming out. I looked for it, to try and bump it back up, but couldn't find it. I did change the fork oil to Screamin Eagle oil. Unfortunately, the improvement was negligible. So, I guess it's time to put some Stiffer springs in the forks.
Since this is a new thread, I guess a little background is appropriate. The bike is an 06 883L. I'm a fairly big guy, 6'1" 205. Front forks keep bottoming out.
Seems like some Progressive springs may be the way to go. But there are a few questions:
Which springs do you recommend?
Where is a good source to purchase them?
Given that I've never done ANY type of suspension work, what do I need to look out for?
That last question isn't TOO much of an intimidating factor, since I'd never done any carb work, until 2 weeks ago when I re jetted my carb, and drilled out the plug to get to the idle mixture screw. I just need some 411. I'm not an expert wrench, but I've watched some of the best at work. I'm just ignorant on some procedures. Ignorant, but not STUPID!
I'm sure I can get some great guidance about this here.
Seems that I remember seeing a project some guy had done where he had installed air fittings on the top of the forks and could pump up some pressure allowing him to adjust the ride to whatever he wanted. I just can't find it, but it's gotta be out here in this great "Information Highway" somewhere.
For the small amount of $$$$ that you will shell out to get the progressive fork springs, I would definately recommend doing it. I paid right around $80 for my kit, but I got the lowering kit. I ordered mine from Trak-Tek, the guy that owns the company is named chris and is a real nice guy. I ordered from him because he is a supporting vendor on the XLforum which I am on quite abit. You will definately be happy with how the bike is with the progressive springs.
Sporty: You can do it! I would use Progressive Street Springs and use the full length spacer sent with them. There exists a fork spring/fork cap compressing tool that is just under $100 and is available for less on eBay. Makes an easy job out of it. There are other ways to jury rig something to aid you in re compressing the spring to put the fork cap back on but all involve lots of muscle power. Removal of the old spring is no big deal. The fork cap will barely move upward, but be sure and notdrop it on the concrete floor.After you remove each fork cap and each spring, take the fork cap and re thread it on to the fork. Mark both the fork cap and the fork with a match line at exactly the spot where the fork cap starts to thread on. Believe me, this mark will prove to be invaluable later during the re installation.
You will have to remove your handlebars because of the way they are mounted on the "L". I had to remove mine on my "R" also.A "C" model would not have to remove handlebars. Put a ink mark on each side of the handlebar clamp and another match line from clamp to bar. Just remove the cap screws from the handlebar clamp and wrap the handlebar with a thick towel. Lay it across the fuel tank. The front wheel needs to be just off the ground. I put a small tool box on each side of the front wheel to keep the forks from turning side to side when I started back together.
Drain the old oil out and refasten the oil drain bolt. It is embarrassing to put new fork oil in at the top and to watch it pour out the bottom of the fork while your wife watches. Don't ask how I know. [:@] Put the Progressive spacer (a piece of PVC) in first then the spring and then a measured amount of new fork oil. I would go buy from Sears the correct sized MM socket for the fork caps just because they are aluminum and are easily marred by an incorrect fitting Inch socket or Crescent wrench. Either use the compression tool, your jury-rigged tool or a friend that is an upper-body weight lifter to do the re compression. Be ready tofirmly turn the socket when it is down in place and the match lines match.Be very careful to not cross-thread the fork cap. Once the cap is started it is all over but the shouting. If you use Progressive springs be sure and put the two in the forks with the progressive winding pointed the same way. It doesn't matter up or down. Complete the other side. Check the oil drain plug bolt one more time for tightness. Reinstall the handlebars. This is a good time to readjust the mounted height of the grips if you are not perfectly satisfied where theywere originally. Go for a ride and enjoy! ................. BC
As it turns out, I befriended a guy today that owns an indy shop in my area. I stopped to help him out, broke down, with no cell phone. I didn't do anything except lend him my cell phone for a few minutes. I bet he has one of those compression tools, and the proper socket for the cap nuts. I'm guessing, he'll let me do the wrenching in his shop. I'll keep ya'll posted.
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