Winterizing Tips?
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 5,865
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From: Potsdam, NY
So I used to ride a sport bike and when the season came to an end I do the whole deal (wash, oil change, fuel stabilizer, store off the wheels, charge the battery and add engine fogging oil). Now I got a harley and looking through the manual it ask for a similar list of items.
so here are my questions:
1. Is it necessary to add oil to the spark plugs if its going to sit only 6 months in heated garage?
2. To avoid oil turning to varnish with air inside your engine is it better to fog oil your engine and not touch it for 6 months or would it be fine to just run your motor once a month to move the oil around and recoat?
so here are my questions:
1. Is it necessary to add oil to the spark plugs if its going to sit only 6 months in heated garage?
2. To avoid oil turning to varnish with air inside your engine is it better to fog oil your engine and not touch it for 6 months or would it be fine to just run your motor once a month to move the oil around and recoat?
I would fog your frame, brake disks and anything that could potentially rust unless you are storing it in a heated dry place.
Remove the seat and battery. Periodically put the battery on a trickle charger.
Change your oil and filter just before storage - once a year or ~10,000 miles is enough with synthetic. Changing the oil more frequently than this is just wasted money if you are using good synthetic oil and a decent quality filter.
Don't store your bike outside if you have a choice and cover it with a vented cover if it is left outside.
Add some gas stabilizer to the gas tank and take your bike for a 20 min ride to get the treated gas into the system before storage.
I would not add oil to the upper cyl unless you are putting into long term multi year storage. I would not even remove the plugs unless you are going to replace them. Normally these get replaced every oil change or ~7500 miles. Use some dielectric grease (not regular grease) on the spark plug caps to prevent corrosion - also good on battery terminals.
Use the winter months to lube your throttle and clutch cables with a cable lube tool.
Last edited by fat_tony; Sep 17, 2012 at 12:58 AM.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 5,865
Likes: 168
From: Potsdam, NY
In my manual it just says to change your oil and filter, pump up your tires, put fuel stabilizer in a full tank of gas and put on a battery tender. That's it. Oh, and to shut off the fuel supply. That brings me to my next question, since this is my first FI bike, is there another way to shut off the fuel or do you just follow the above instructions?
Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 662
Likes: 1
From: Kelowna, BC, Canada
That makes total sense. I have the service manual and am good with my hands. Just never owned a FI bike, nor a Harley before.
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Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 51
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From: Vancouver
Running your motor is fine but if you start it up be prepared to run it for 10 min or so. Starting it only for 30 seconds is not really helpful and just induces condensation. Heat burns off the condensation in the oil. It does not even get any lubrication for the first 60 seconds or so. Most engine wear is on startup. Modern oils will not turn to varnish over the winter. It will take several years of just sitting for them to degrade noticeably.
I would fog your frame, brake disks and anything that could potentially rust unless you are storing it in a heated dry place.
Remove the seat and battery. Periodically put the battery on a trickle charger.
Change your oil and filter just before storage - once a year or ~10,000 miles is enough with synthetic. Changing the oil more frequently than this is just wasted money if you are using good synthetic oil and a decent quality filter.
Don't store your bike outside if you have a choice and cover it with a vented cover if it is left outside.
Add some gas stabilizer to the gas tank and take your bike for a 20 min ride to get the treated gas into the system before storage.
I would not add oil to the upper cyl unless you are putting into long term multi year storage. I would not even remove the plugs unless you are going to replace them. Normally these get replaced every oil change or ~7500 miles. Use some dielectric grease (not regular grease) on the spark plug caps to prevent corrosion - also good on battery terminals.
Use the winter months to lube your throttle and clutch cables with a cable lube tool.
I would fog your frame, brake disks and anything that could potentially rust unless you are storing it in a heated dry place.
Remove the seat and battery. Periodically put the battery on a trickle charger.
Change your oil and filter just before storage - once a year or ~10,000 miles is enough with synthetic. Changing the oil more frequently than this is just wasted money if you are using good synthetic oil and a decent quality filter.
Don't store your bike outside if you have a choice and cover it with a vented cover if it is left outside.
Add some gas stabilizer to the gas tank and take your bike for a 20 min ride to get the treated gas into the system before storage.
I would not add oil to the upper cyl unless you are putting into long term multi year storage. I would not even remove the plugs unless you are going to replace them. Normally these get replaced every oil change or ~7500 miles. Use some dielectric grease (not regular grease) on the spark plug caps to prevent corrosion - also good on battery terminals.
Use the winter months to lube your throttle and clutch cables with a cable lube tool.
Very Helpful, Thanks,
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