Help with LED stabilizer
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Road Master
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 763
Likes: 15
From: New Jersey
Help with LED stabilizer
I purchased the stabilizers from custom dynamics for my sportster 09 low. They are plug ins with a bulb on the end. It shows in the manual to plug them into the turn signal plugs inside the brake light. If I do that I have to unplug the turn signals. Not seeing it. Any advice. Thanks
Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,372
Likes: 49
From: In the foothills of southwestern NC - US of A
'Not sure I'm following you...the stabilizer is usually a separate unit. Maybe you got the wrong kit? Can you provide a Custom Dynamic part number or a better description so we can understand a bit more/help?
=8^)
=8^)
Last edited by DrewBone; Jun 14, 2013 at 01:52 PM.
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Road Master
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 763
Likes: 15
From: New Jersey
Custom dynamics part # 5.6 16. Load equalizer. I already installed the LEDs and they are blinking fast. So I ordered two of these for left and right. They are plug ins but the instructions make it look like a splice job. Not sure where to go with them
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Road Master
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 763
Likes: 15
From: New Jersey
I don't know how to load pics. Got my bike on at one point. It's a black female plug in with a bulb tail. If I plug them into the turn signal ports there's no way of piggybacking the turn signals into it. I must be missing where to plug them in.
Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 662
Likes: 1
From: Kelowna, BC, Canada
Yeah, the install pic on that site sure doesn't seem to line up with what the equalizer looks like. Maybe someone else can chime in.
http://www.customdynamics.com/loadequalizer.htm Go to Item # GEN-5.6-15
http://www.customdynamics.com/loadequalizer.htm Go to Item # GEN-5.6-15
Club Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 15,435
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From: Beyond Fucital
Looks like you might have the wrong equalizers,
or if you unplug the light and plug in the equalizer
can you plug the light into the end of the equalizer?
or if you unplug the light and plug in the equalizer
can you plug the light into the end of the equalizer?
Last edited by RANGER73; Jun 16, 2013 at 06:07 AM.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,372
Likes: 49
From: In the foothills of southwestern NC - US of A
Ah ok, these are the "universal" load equalizers, also known as "resistors" - they can be placed anywhere inline of the light circuit you are wishing to apply the resitance to.
The only problem with resistors is that they create heat...this is why, IMHO, the "module" type of load equalizer is better [although more expensive] because the resistance is accomplished through cooler running electronics, pretty much alleviating any worries about where you place it.
'Matter of fact I just ordered this setup from Custom Dynamics, which includes the equalizer module, and it should be on my doorstep tomorrow:
As you can see, unlike the universal equalizers which are unpowered and require you to "cut into" the wiring circuit, the equalizer module only requires simple connection to your 12v+ and - @the battery to operate, and as far as attaching to the lighting circuit, you simply unplug your factory harness under the seat and plug the module inbetween the connectors and you're done...no cutting or splicing required.
When I was looking to change over to LED's for my Iron I looked at all the possible ways of doing it. Having worked on truck lighting for years and the associated headaches with customers wanting LED's, I had some experience. Funny story...well, I didn't think so at the time. Anyway, a truck comes in and one of the rear LED directionals was going ape$hit fast, so I started looking around for either resistors inline or a module. I found none, so I started looking along the inner frame rail and came upon this loop of wire, neatly covered in wire loom, all wrapped up with electrical tape, wire tied to the chassis. It looked like a good place to start to look so I began cutting through the mess and finally got down to the meat and potatoes of it and what did I find? A replacement taillight socket with a 1156 bulb in it wired into the circuit, acting as a "resistor." WTF!!! 'Only problem was, outside of it being hidden, was the fact that the bulb was blown, so there was no resisitance!!! Whoever installed the LED's was too fooking cheap [or stupid] to either add a resistor inline or pay for a module, so they went with this odd but affective [while the bulb remains intact anyway] method...k-ripes!!!
In the end and after my information quest was complete I really liked the idea of no splicing and cooler running operation that the module offered...maybe you should see if you can return the universals and maybe spend a little more on the module to save yourself some grief?
=8^)
The only problem with resistors is that they create heat...this is why, IMHO, the "module" type of load equalizer is better [although more expensive] because the resistance is accomplished through cooler running electronics, pretty much alleviating any worries about where you place it.
'Matter of fact I just ordered this setup from Custom Dynamics, which includes the equalizer module, and it should be on my doorstep tomorrow:
As you can see, unlike the universal equalizers which are unpowered and require you to "cut into" the wiring circuit, the equalizer module only requires simple connection to your 12v+ and - @the battery to operate, and as far as attaching to the lighting circuit, you simply unplug your factory harness under the seat and plug the module inbetween the connectors and you're done...no cutting or splicing required.
When I was looking to change over to LED's for my Iron I looked at all the possible ways of doing it. Having worked on truck lighting for years and the associated headaches with customers wanting LED's, I had some experience. Funny story...well, I didn't think so at the time. Anyway, a truck comes in and one of the rear LED directionals was going ape$hit fast, so I started looking around for either resistors inline or a module. I found none, so I started looking along the inner frame rail and came upon this loop of wire, neatly covered in wire loom, all wrapped up with electrical tape, wire tied to the chassis. It looked like a good place to start to look so I began cutting through the mess and finally got down to the meat and potatoes of it and what did I find? A replacement taillight socket with a 1156 bulb in it wired into the circuit, acting as a "resistor." WTF!!! 'Only problem was, outside of it being hidden, was the fact that the bulb was blown, so there was no resisitance!!! Whoever installed the LED's was too fooking cheap [or stupid] to either add a resistor inline or pay for a module, so they went with this odd but affective [while the bulb remains intact anyway] method...k-ripes!!!
In the end and after my information quest was complete I really liked the idea of no splicing and cooler running operation that the module offered...maybe you should see if you can return the universals and maybe spend a little more on the module to save yourself some grief?
=8^)
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Club Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 15,435
Likes: 7,127
From: Beyond Fucital
Ah ok, these are the "universal" load equalizers, also known as "resistors" - they can be placed anywhere inline of the light circuit you are wishing to apply the resitance to.
The only problem with resistors is that they create heat...this is why, IMHO, the "module" type of load equalizer is better [although more expensive] because the resistance is accomplished through cooler running electronics, pretty much alleviating any worries about where you place it.
'Matter of fact I just ordered this setup from Custom Dynamics, which includes the equalizer module, and it should be on my doorstep tomorrow:
As you can see, unlike the universal equalizers which are unpowered and require you to "cut into" the wiring circuit, the equalizer module only requires simple connection to your 12v+ and - @the battery to operate, and as far as attaching to the lighting circuit, you simply unplug your factory harness under the seat and plug the module inbetween the connectors and you're done...no cutting or splicing required.
When I was looking to change over to LED's for my Iron I looked at all the possible ways of doing it. Having worked on truck lighting for years and the associated headaches with customers wanting LED's, I had some experience. Funny story...well, I didn't think so at the time. Anyway, a truck comes in and one of the rear LED directionals was going ape$hit fast, so I started looking around for either resistors inline or a module. I found none, so I started looking along the inner frame rail and came upon this loop of wire, neatly covered in wire loom, all wrapped up with electrical tape, wire tied to the chassis. It looked like a good place to start to look so I began cutting through the mess and finally got down to the meat and potatoes of it and what did I find? A replacement taillight socket with a 1156 bulb in it wired into the circuit, acting as a "resistor." WTF!!! 'Only problem was, outside of it being hidden, was the fact that the bulb was blown, so there was no resisitance!!! Whoever installed the LED's was too fooking cheap [or stupid] to either add a resistor inline or pay for a module, so they went with this odd but affective [while the bulb remains intact anyway] method...k-ripes!!!
In the end and after my information quest was complete I really liked the idea of no splicing and cooler running operation that the module offered...maybe you should see if you can return the universals and maybe spend a little more on the module to save yourself some grief?
=8^)
The only problem with resistors is that they create heat...this is why, IMHO, the "module" type of load equalizer is better [although more expensive] because the resistance is accomplished through cooler running electronics, pretty much alleviating any worries about where you place it.
'Matter of fact I just ordered this setup from Custom Dynamics, which includes the equalizer module, and it should be on my doorstep tomorrow:
As you can see, unlike the universal equalizers which are unpowered and require you to "cut into" the wiring circuit, the equalizer module only requires simple connection to your 12v+ and - @the battery to operate, and as far as attaching to the lighting circuit, you simply unplug your factory harness under the seat and plug the module inbetween the connectors and you're done...no cutting or splicing required.
When I was looking to change over to LED's for my Iron I looked at all the possible ways of doing it. Having worked on truck lighting for years and the associated headaches with customers wanting LED's, I had some experience. Funny story...well, I didn't think so at the time. Anyway, a truck comes in and one of the rear LED directionals was going ape$hit fast, so I started looking around for either resistors inline or a module. I found none, so I started looking along the inner frame rail and came upon this loop of wire, neatly covered in wire loom, all wrapped up with electrical tape, wire tied to the chassis. It looked like a good place to start to look so I began cutting through the mess and finally got down to the meat and potatoes of it and what did I find? A replacement taillight socket with a 1156 bulb in it wired into the circuit, acting as a "resistor." WTF!!! 'Only problem was, outside of it being hidden, was the fact that the bulb was blown, so there was no resisitance!!! Whoever installed the LED's was too fooking cheap [or stupid] to either add a resistor inline or pay for a module, so they went with this odd but affective [while the bulb remains intact anyway] method...k-ripes!!!
In the end and after my information quest was complete I really liked the idea of no splicing and cooler running operation that the module offered...maybe you should see if you can return the universals and maybe spend a little more on the module to save yourself some grief?
=8^)
Thread Starter
|
Road Master
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 763
Likes: 15
From: New Jersey
Thanks for the info, I think I will return the generic cheapos and get this setup. One question though. I also purchased the HD kit to make my turn signals in the rear stay light as running lights. I should have them this week. From what I have read for the kit, I have to plug it in to the main harness where the rear fender harness meets. Would this above load equalizer plug in with that, or did I mis understand. Thanks again.