Clutch adjustment and cable help.
Clutch adjustment and cable help.
I bought my 2010 Iron with 420 miles on it last month. Changed the engine and transmission fluids right away. Everything went well. I have done a bunch of mods to the bike including 27" drag bars. The bike now has 1100 miles on it and I think the clutch needs some adjustments and feel like the shorter and narrower bars don't make an easy route for the cable.
I have the service manual but it doesn't tell you how it should be or feel once it is adjusted right and I don't have the experience of other bikes to rely on.
If I could get some advice based on what I think is going on, would be appreciated.
Some observations:
Here is a (quick and bad... sorry) video of the lever and cable.
I have the service manual but it doesn't tell you how it should be or feel once it is adjusted right and I don't have the experience of other bikes to rely on.
If I could get some advice based on what I think is going on, would be appreciated.
Some observations:
- with the engine off and in first gear, when I pull in the clutch, it doesn't disengage, have to put it in neutral to move bike.
- When I start up in first with clutch in, it jumps a bit then disengages.
- the friction zone is at the end of the clutch extension. barely have to pull it in to get in friction zone
- not really sure where the clutch cable should go, is kind of a tight turn and rubs on the tank, potential to wear through paint? shorter cable or maybe route between handlebar risers?
- seems to be clunking while shifting way more than when I got the bike.
Here is a (quick and bad... sorry) video of the lever and cable.
Novice
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 19
Likes: 1
From: Portsmouth, VA
I bought my 2010 Iron with 420 miles on it last month. Changed the engine and transmission fluids right away. Everything went well. I have done a bunch of mods to the bike including 27" drag bars. The bike now has 1100 miles on it and I think the clutch needs some adjustments and feel like the shorter and narrower bars don't make an easy route for the cable.
I have the service manual but it doesn't tell you how it should be or feel once it is adjusted right and I don't have the experience of other bikes to rely on.
If I could get some advice based on what I think is going on, would be appreciated.
Some observations:
I have the service manual but it doesn't tell you how it should be or feel once it is adjusted right and I don't have the experience of other bikes to rely on.
If I could get some advice based on what I think is going on, would be appreciated.
Some observations:
- with the engine off and in first gear, when I pull in the clutch, it doesn't disengage, have to put it in neutral to move bike.
- When I start up in first with clutch in, it jumps a bit then disengages.
- the friction zone is at the end of the clutch extension. barely have to pull it in to get in friction zone
- not really sure where the clutch cable should go, is kind of a tight turn and rubs on the tank, potential to wear through paint? shorter cable or maybe route between handlebar risers?
- seems to be clunking while shifting way more than when I got the bike.
2) See 1) once the primary chain starts moving the oil gets onto the friction disc in the clutch. If it bothers you then start the bike in neutral and pull the clutch in a couple of times to allow the oil to get on the clutch friction plates. I start my bike in gear a lot when I leave for work early in the morning as to not **** off the neighbors. It always "lurches" as I call it. Then idle off down the road to not wake anybody.
3) Your service manual should give you a spec for adjustment. It doesn't say where the friction zone should be but if you grab the cable housing and pull it away from the clutch lever mount the gap should be 1/16" to 1/8". To quote my dyna tech manual,
"8. Check freeplay.
a. Turn cable adjuster away from jam nut until slack is eliminated at hand lever.
b. See Figure 1-22. Pull clutch cable ferrule (2) away from clutch lever bracket (3) to check freeplay. Turn cable adjuster as necessary to obtain 1/16-1/8 in. (1.6-3.2 mm) freeplay between end of cable ferrule and clutch lever bracket."
That 1/16"-1/8" adjustment has been on every Harley I have ever worked on. Not that that has been a lot. (About 6 or 7 bikes)
4) The cable should run forward of the top triple tree and then through the front end on top of the bottom triple tree. If you need extra help with the routing I can take a picture of the front end on my wife's 2006 883L.
5) The clunkiness could just be your imagination. I've noticed that I always get paranoid that something isn't right with my bikes. It's usually in my head. Make sure things are adjusted, torque and just generally per you service manual and you should be good to go.
Good luck.
Thanks Harold, Really appreciate the detailed response.
Dry clutch after sitting makes sense, after I have it going, seems to be working. maybe should double check the oil levels in there too.
I moved the clutch cable back in front, rubs on my headlight a bit but probably better then on my tank. At some point might route it through the inside of my fork as that will have a more natural bend.
Perhaps the clunk is in my head, will see how it is over the next while. Might even take the bike to a local MC shop and get them to give it a once over and make sure everything is as it should be.
Dry clutch after sitting makes sense, after I have it going, seems to be working. maybe should double check the oil levels in there too.
I moved the clutch cable back in front, rubs on my headlight a bit but probably better then on my tank. At some point might route it through the inside of my fork as that will have a more natural bend.
Perhaps the clunk is in my head, will see how it is over the next while. Might even take the bike to a local MC shop and get them to give it a once over and make sure everything is as it should be.
Novice
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 19
Likes: 1
From: Portsmouth, VA
Thats a good point too. Check the level of primary fluid. Usually tough shifting comes from to much oil. For low oil level, it would have to be super low and I don't think it would get back up on your clutch after starting. If the level is to high it causes drag on the clutch making it hard to shift and really hard to find neutral. Check your service manual for the level, some bikes give a level when looking through you derby cover opening. Some bikes, like my 2011 Super Glide Custom don't give you a physical level just a quantity. In that case you have to drain the primary oil and refill with the designated amount.
Road Master
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,188
Likes: 24
From: New Hampshire
if it was mine i would just do a full clutch adjustment and see if it improves if you haven't already. make sure you loosen cable as it says in the manual before adjusting the screw on the clutch. by how far counterclockwise after resistance is felt and how far you back it off clockwise on the adjustment screw, you can fine tune it to grab faster or take longer to grab as you release the clutch. after you have done it a few times you will know how you like it.
Road Captain
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 731
Likes: 7
From: Windsor Ontario
You may have a failed spring plate. It would be worth your while to pull the primary cover off and look for brass rivets floating around. Would be worth more to just buy an extra friction disk and a couple of steels and remove the spring plate before it replaces your entire clutch basket with a pile of scrap metal.
Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,599
Likes: 11
From: Colonial Beach, Virginia
The #1 can be explained away quite easily, when moving the bike in 1st gear you're trying to turn the clutch plates at many times the speed of the rear wheel because you're on the wrong side of low gear ratio. 2nd, I never start my bike in gear for the exact reason you described and it takes a lot of battery power break the clutch loose.
3rd, mine engages pretty early but I have very fat Kuryakan ISO grips.
4th, I'm replacing my clutch cable with a new Barnett unit. I did a faux pas a couple of years ago, the bike tried to escape off of the jack and bent the crimped part near the clutch housing. Since that it has always had a drop of oil hanging on the clutch cable. PS, I saved the bike from falling with shear muscle power. Fortunately at 71 I still have most of it. I may share the cable changing on here with a picture or two.
3rd, mine engages pretty early but I have very fat Kuryakan ISO grips.
4th, I'm replacing my clutch cable with a new Barnett unit. I did a faux pas a couple of years ago, the bike tried to escape off of the jack and bent the crimped part near the clutch housing. Since that it has always had a drop of oil hanging on the clutch cable. PS, I saved the bike from falling with shear muscle power. Fortunately at 71 I still have most of it. I may share the cable changing on here with a picture or two.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,259
Likes: 523
From: USA
The cable routing doesn't look correct to me.
This may snap the cable and wear it quicker than usual, if the routing is not in the correct position. Not sure if this routing equates to any of your complaints.
It should bows or loop toward the front of the bike.
Did you use Formula + as the trans oil? Some other oil may explain the neutral to first and initial/jumping engagment complaints...sticking disc.
This may snap the cable and wear it quicker than usual, if the routing is not in the correct position. Not sure if this routing equates to any of your complaints.
It should bows or loop toward the front of the bike.
Did you use Formula + as the trans oil? Some other oil may explain the neutral to first and initial/jumping engagment complaints...sticking disc.
Last edited by Kenny94945; Jul 5, 2013 at 06:12 PM. Reason: grammer
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