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From: In the foothills of southwestern NC - US of A
Originally Posted by wachuko
Great suggestions!
This is the setup that I am working with... so some fabricating will have to be done as those breather nipples are narrower than what I have in there...
I made this to deflect the oil mist... but need a better solution...
wachuko, so what you need is to either have separate tubes from each breather nipple to their own breather/catch, or from breather nipple to breather nipple with a single something inbetween? Would you prefer going below or above the intake?
I tapped my cam cover back behind the oil filter (how it was done in the good ole days -EPA). Works perfect, you can use regular bolts to hold the A/C on and have virtually any options of running the tubing any way you want.
I tapped my cam cover back behind the oil filter (how it was done in the good ole days -EPA). Works perfect, you can use regular bolts to hold the A/C on and have virtually any options of running the tubing any way you want.
From: In the foothills of southwestern NC - US of A
Originally Posted by Kontankerous
I tapped my cam cover back behind the oil filter (how it was done in the good ole days -EPA). Works perfect, you can use regular bolts to hold the A/C on and have virtually any options of running the tubing any way you want.
EDIT: 'Missunderstood your statements above and removed my original text...could you please elaborate with a little more information? Did you run a line from where you tapped into the cam cover to atmosphere, filter, catch can?
=8^)
Last edited by DrewBone; Nov 14, 2013 at 09:50 AM.
wachuko, so what you need is to either have separate tubes from each breather nipple to their own breather/catch, or from breather nipple to breather nipple with a single something inbetween? Would you prefer going below or above the intake?
=8^)
Above or below... no preference
I was playing a little bit to see how to move forward... separate catches... not sure I would like that look...
Tapping the breather spacers, adding and adapter to hook up a hose would be the way to go... then route hose to a filter or catcher setup... again, above or below makes no difference to me, whatever hides everything best.
cHarley, when I recently removed my "horseshoe" tube that accompanies my K&N Air Charger intake, the oil residue I found on both banjo fittings [of course, slightly more on the rear cyclinder end] and what I snaked out of the tube could fit on the face of a penny, from 5,000 miles worth of riding.
It would seem that the "up and over and down" route the oil vapor from the rear cylinder has to travel through the tube is not ideal but it seems to work nonetheless without any detrimental effects.
I'm on the fence too about the looks of the horseshoe tube...without it, it seems to leave the area somewhat "barren" perhaps because I'm so used to seeing it there. Dispite this, my next iteration of breather modification will utilize separate banjo fittings and SS tubing routed to a...[insert: your best guess]...
=8^)
When I did my 1250 build this summer I installed one of the horseshoe tubes with a single hose instead of the hose system I posted above. After ~1,500 miles, some of it hard running on the slab, I noticed there was a bit of oil leaking from around the rear banjo fitting. When I pulled it apart, it was obvious that oil was puddling in the rear banjo and not making the trip up and over the horseshoe which eventually lead to oil leaking past the metal washers on the banjo bolt.
I've since reinstalled my old "down hose" system and have not had anymore problems. I'd rather have the oil mist dump cleanly on the asphalt below, than have it blown down the side of the bike. Either way it's going to wind up in the environment.
Edit: To be fair, I think my higher compression, cam'd motor produces a bit more breather mist than the stock motor did, so YMMV.
I'll have to take a better pic of it tonight, but basically I tapped at 12 o'clock, added a 90* brass fitting, took some hard copper line to the rear above drive socket into a Krankvent KVS that vent to open for the moment. I haven't completed the copper catch can yet. Inside the circular portion of the cam cover I inserted a piece of formed sheetmetal with holes to keep out most of the blowby, the catch can will/should handle the rest. After a good hard ride, sometimes I'll notice a little oil drip from the vent, which is to the right of the rear wheel at the moment.
Lot's of good ideas here on how to keep that nasty air out of the throttle body/carb and combustion chamber.
For a couple of months we have been working on a new "stealth" kit for both Sportsters. BT Evo's and Twin cams that routes the carry-over away and out of sight. (for those that don't like/want the Outlaw Breather Bolts or the Traditional hose & filter).
The Twin Cams with aftermarket deep backplates have been the hold up. We still have not found an economical solution for that. So we will probably be releasing the others on our website within the next few weeks.
Also, we have looked at doing a catch-can kit for a few years, that method has a lot of appeal. But everytime we look at it, it starts to get expensive and far too many variables to have 1-2 kits that meet most everyone's need.
When I did my 1250 build this summer I installed one of the horseshoe tubes with a single hose instead of the hose system I posted above. After ~1,500 miles, some of it hard running on the slab, I noticed there was a bit of oil leaking from around the rear banjo fitting. When I pulled it apart, it was obvious that oil was puddling in the rear banjo and not making the trip up and over the horseshoe which eventually lead to oil leaking past the metal washers on the banjo bolt.
I've since reinstalled my old "down hose" system and have not had anymore problems. I'd rather have the oil mist dump cleanly on the asphalt below, than have it blown down the side of the bike. Either way it's going to wind up in the environment.
Edit: To be fair, I think my higher compression, cam'd motor produces a bit more breather mist than the stock motor did, so YMMV.
Your banjo fitting should have been tightened or new copper gaskets put on.
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