Changing handle bars 05 1200c
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Stage II
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 2
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From: carson city nevada
Changing handle bars 05 1200c
my winter project is changing the stock bars to 12 inch apes. Any pointer's would be greatly appreciated as I've never done this. I will be doing it myself to save the cash.
Novice
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: Muskegon, Mi
I have done a few bar changes, so maybe I can help.
#1. COVER UP THE TANK. Last thing you want is when loosening up the bars is them or the riser/speedo dinging against your tank. Been there done that.
It may be easier to remove the tank to access the wiring without scratching the tank. There will be connections for the controls either on the frame, in your riser, or inside the headlamp. These will need to be removed as you will need to extend your electrical in one shape or form.
You will also probably need extended clutch, throttle and brake lines.
Burly offers bars with the cable and wiring extensions in a kit. Very cost effective. Usually can get 12" Burlys with cable kit for under $300.
If you are planning to reuse your grips, you will need to remove the left side grip. It will be glued on. Windex, brake cleaner, or WD40 will help break down the glue. My suggestion, get new grips.
If wiring through the bars for electrical: For a fish tape. Use CAT5 wire, or something with a smooth jacket to make a pull string. Some bars have rough edges inside at the weld joints. Regular pull string will snag.
Seal off one bar end with tape. Get a plastic grocery bag. Tape to end of pull string. Use a shop vac, make a seal around the other end of bar. Lube bag and pull string. Suck the bag through the bar. Works really slick. Use pull string to feed your wires through. Make sure you lube the jacket of the wires.
The rest is just reassambly and bleeding of the front brake.
Hope that helps.
#1. COVER UP THE TANK. Last thing you want is when loosening up the bars is them or the riser/speedo dinging against your tank. Been there done that.
It may be easier to remove the tank to access the wiring without scratching the tank. There will be connections for the controls either on the frame, in your riser, or inside the headlamp. These will need to be removed as you will need to extend your electrical in one shape or form.
You will also probably need extended clutch, throttle and brake lines.
Burly offers bars with the cable and wiring extensions in a kit. Very cost effective. Usually can get 12" Burlys with cable kit for under $300.
If you are planning to reuse your grips, you will need to remove the left side grip. It will be glued on. Windex, brake cleaner, or WD40 will help break down the glue. My suggestion, get new grips.
If wiring through the bars for electrical: For a fish tape. Use CAT5 wire, or something with a smooth jacket to make a pull string. Some bars have rough edges inside at the weld joints. Regular pull string will snag.
Seal off one bar end with tape. Get a plastic grocery bag. Tape to end of pull string. Use a shop vac, make a seal around the other end of bar. Lube bag and pull string. Suck the bag through the bar. Works really slick. Use pull string to feed your wires through. Make sure you lube the jacket of the wires.
The rest is just reassambly and bleeding of the front brake.
Hope that helps.
Road Captain
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 669
Likes: 2
sickskinz just about covered all,you should squeeze your brake lever and put a piece off cardboard between the lever and the housing to hold the brake lever in, this way you will not break the little switch in their.
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 613
Likes: 17
From: Boston, MA
Make sure you have a service manual on hand. I had never done anything with clutch or throttle cables until I did my sportster bars last winter. Service manual could not have made it any simpler.
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