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DYNOJET: TT AT vs PV Basic AT

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Old Jul 6, 2016 | 10:37 PM
  #211  
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Originally Posted by Tsani
So Oleboy, did we answer your question or does it need clearing up? After all this crap, lost track of it?

Teardrop,
Subscribe to this thread:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/the-d...ng-basics.html

It should be well worth your time. Steve Cole is top notch.
Tsani,

I've pretty much just given up. I don't know a whole lot about mapping VE tables and even less about tuning a bike. I'm an Accountant.

My understanding of mapping the tables is you set the whole AFR table to a target AFR. (14.6 if using narrow bands) and (13.0 if using wide bands). You run the bike (regardless of whether it is a stage one or stage four) through all the different MAP or TP settings at all of the the different RPMs while you adjust the VE table table figures for each cylinder until you achieve the target AFR (14.6 or 13.0) at the 02 sensors in the exhaust pipes. Once that is done, the VE for each cylinder is set. After that, I suppose you could change the figures in the AFR table to whatever figures you like or toss the 02 sensors altogether and the bike would run at (or very close to) the AFRs that you set in the AFR table. I'm not sure it matters which sensor (narrow or wide) band you use to do the VE mapping as long as the samples that each 02 sensor receive in the mapping process are sufficient to get good readings in order to accurately map the VE tables.

All the product literature that I have read has one thing in common. They all state that mapping the VE tables is the most important process of tuning. It seems we have somehow gone from that to using a device to control and adjust the VE table as we ride. I just wonder what is wrong with doing the procedure as I outlined above and not using a device to control and adjust VE as I ride. If the VE tables are mapped accurately as above, why would I need a device to control the ARF as I ride?

Like I said, this is just my simple understanding. It's probably wrong. The reason I asked for some clarification and the question initially.

Thanks.
 
Old Jul 6, 2016 | 11:27 PM
  #212  
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If the VE tables are accurately mapped, along with the other tables, you should be fine, especially with a stock bike or a bike with basically a pipe and or air cleaner change. But even a stock bike can benefit from a proper tune, a modified bike even more so. The factory tune is simply a balance between having a bike that's runs ok but meets EPA requirements which is not always the best for you and your engine. Your second paragraph is fairly correct. However, keep in mind that if you get rid of the O2's, the AFR map needs to have the closed loop areas changed to run with the appropriate AFR's instead of relying on the input from the sensors. Harleys were running just fine without O2's prior to 2006.

Give this a read. http://www.drdyno.com/AIM_2010-07.html May help. Follow the link to the second portion as well. You might want to follow the thread I pointed Teardrop to. It should be a good thread with a lot of true and factual information.

As to the original question, it all comes down to the methods used. That is why the changes can be drastic or not so drastic.
 

Last edited by Tsani; Jul 6, 2016 at 11:33 PM.
Old Jul 6, 2016 | 11:49 PM
  #213  
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Originally Posted by Teardrop
I understand the importance of data but I want to learn how to tune my bike.
Regardless of what tuner you are using, read the TTS Tuning Manual with a date of July 25, 2011. In my opinion, it is the best information out there that pulls it all together. Understandably, allot if it is TTS specific, but also so very much of it is a very good general explanation about the basic EFI tuning process.

Here is a link:

https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/downloads/tts_tuning.pdf

I hope it helps you.
 
Old Jul 7, 2016 | 12:20 AM
  #214  
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Originally Posted by Tsani
If the VE tables are accurately mapped, along with the other tables, you should be fine, especially with a stock bike or a bike with basically a pipe and or air cleaner change. But even a stock bike can benefit from a proper tune, a modified bike even more so. The factory tune is simply a balance between having a bike that's runs ok but meets EPA requirements which is not always the best for you and your engine. Your second paragraph is fairly correct. However, keep in mind that if you get rid of the O2's, the AFR map needs to have the closed loop areas changed to run with the appropriate AFR's instead of relying on the input from the sensors. Harleys were running just fine without O2's prior to 2006.

Give this a read. http://www.drdyno.com/AIM_2010-07.html May help. Follow the link to the second portion as well. You might want to follow the thread I pointed Teardrop to. It should be a good thread with a lot of true and factual information.

As to the original question, it all comes down to the methods used. That is why the changes can be drastic or not so drastic.
I'm in no means arguing about the benefits of a full dyno tune versus auto tune for mapping VE tables. I understand the full tune by a professional tuner is better. Way more to it than VE mapping.

Both of my builds were tuned on a dyno by a professional tuner who I happen to think walks on water. My bikes run that well. I'm lucky. He is local to me, but if he wasn't, I would trailer them across the country to get them to him.

My question was more of a conceptional nature concerning auto tuning with the different devices (narrow versus wide bands).

Thanks for the link.
 
Old Jul 7, 2016 | 05:54 AM
  #215  
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Originally Posted by oleboy

My understanding of mapping the tables is you set the whole AFR table to a target AFR. (14.6 if using narrow bands) and (13.0 if using wide bands). You run the bike (regardless of whether it is a stage one or stage four) through all the different MAP or TP settings at all of the the different RPMs while you adjust the VE table table figures for each cylinder until you achieve the target AFR (14.6 or 13.0) at the 02 sensors in the exhaust pipes. Once that is done, the VE for each cylinder is set. After that, I suppose you could change the figures in the AFR table to whatever figures you like or toss the 02 sensors altogether and the bike would run at (or very close to) the AFRs that you set in the AFR table. I'm not sure it matters which sensor (narrow or wide) band you use to do the VE mapping as long as the samples that each 02 sensor receive in the mapping process are sufficient to get good readings in order to accurately map the VE tables.

All the product literature that I have read has one thing in common. They all state that mapping the VE tables is the most important process of tuning. It seems we have somehow gone from that to using a device to control and adjust the VE table as we ride. I just wonder what is wrong with doing the procedure as I outlined above and not using a device to control and adjust VE as I ride. If the VE tables are mapped accurately as above, why would I need a device to control the ARF as I ride?

Like I said, this is just my simple understanding. It's probably wrong. The reason I asked for some clarification and the question initially.

Thanks.
You need to add.... and have the long and short term fuel trims as close to 100 everywhere as possible when running closed loop. This is what minimizes tune drift with time.

Andy
 

Last edited by whittlebeast; Jul 7, 2016 at 06:11 AM.
Old Jul 7, 2016 | 06:16 AM
  #216  
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Oleboy have you had chance to connect AT-100 to PV and do some testing yet?

I found the megasquirt manual quite good reading on EFI basics/tuning, there all just internal combustion engines

Andy I think there is an expectation that you buy a flash tuner, load map/MLVHD or dyno tune and presto you will get 10hp or some considerable improvement

These bikes run very well off the show room floor, never been better and more reliable
 
Old Jul 7, 2016 | 07:15 AM
  #217  
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Originally Posted by whittlebeast
Teardrop

I came from a world where data is everything and dynos were relatively rare. A world where more data is always better.

That is the world of construction and Andy is in charge of making sure they have enough 2 x 4's and nails on the job. I'm sure info from previous jobs help this, and there is no reason for a dyno.
 
Old Jul 7, 2016 | 07:24 AM
  #218  
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Jason again brings no tuning knowledge to the table. Only a personal attack.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2016 | 08:33 AM
  #219  
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Old Jul 7, 2016 | 08:39 AM
  #220  
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Originally Posted by whittlebeast
Jason again brings no tuning knowledge to the table. Only a personal attack.
Not an attack. Just what you do. Do you not work for a construction company? Don't be ashamed. I'm not ashamed with what I do.


You biggest problem is you are trying to be something you are not. You want to talk about your back ground like you came from tuning. You want to state how you have modeled the HD. Instead of trying to learn how it actually works yourself.


VE new has been explained to you numerous times by the guy that wrote it. You refuse to listen. You state the HD system is easy and this is the formula, but that formula didn't help you tune your sportster. I know, I know, it wasn't your fault. It was the code bust, and dyno jet fixed it. BUT you won't explain anything more. Sounds like smoke and mirrors to me.


VE new? Much more than tuning than mapping VE tables in the area a NB sensor works. This isn't tuning.


Now he want to convince us he has modeled the HD engine. What a bunch of BS. He attempted to map his wife's sportster and could never get it right.


He has proved nothing. Posting a screen shot and saying see. Doesn't do anything. Especially when everybody is saying. No, we don't see.


With all your fancy talk on any of the sites. I have yet seen a thread follow through from the beginning or middle of the tune to the end tuning with your strategies.


Look at the latest Hammer Performance sportster you talked out of a dyno tune. Wound up with a TT on it didn't it Andy?
 



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