I've run a couple of tanks of non ethanol 93 octane through now with the VIEDs set at 50%. I have not noticed any rich smell with it, but I also don't know for sure what to watch for as far as if I have cleared up any of the leaner condition with the SE Street Cannons on. The plugs are just as white as they were before I put on the VIEDs. I didn't have any performance issues before and have seen no change since these changes either. Is there any other indicator I can check to see how rich or lean I am running?

 

Yes a flash tune requires riding and turning the key off and back on through several cycles. Make it a process to stop and shut the bike off and restart and go again.

 

The new systems do not "allow "reading"of spark plugs like in the past. The rear plug will appear different then the front plug. You may see a light grey to light brown color. It would take 15 mpg run to get these new plugs to look rich. You will get a better evaluation by looking at your tailpipes, monitoring your mpg and note exhaust odor. You should never smell raw gas.

 

The manual with the FP3 is very poor. I decided to call V & H before using the device so I understood the correct tuning process. I described my bike; a 2014 RK CVO with V & H Powerduals and RC Components 4.5" slipons. They recommended a canned flash. What follows is the important tuning steps on using the FuelPak and getting the outstanding results I did.

Ride with the new recommended flash un-altered for two tanks full of fuel. If you feel there is a need, do the Autotune. The Autotune processis also is not described well in any document. Here are the techs recs:

After starting an autotune, ride for an hour before applying the learned values. The bike will perform often times less well duiring this process as the settings are being tested. After an hour of riding, turn off the engine and apply, but do not finish the flash. Apply the learned values after each hour as the device can only change 15% of the values at a time. This process should be done at least 3 one hour segments or ideally 1 or 2 full tanks before "Finishing" the flash. The FP3 will guide you thru the process of turning on and off the bike. Very important- ride a large variety of riding types with both agressive and regular riding styles including low speed riding during the Autotune process.

After the finishing the tune, ride a full tank. You will not appeciate the full benefits until this time. My experince was fantastic. My CVO has never run as smooth, as cool, essentially without any popping, or pulled as strongly. It was nothing short of amazing what the device did. This was in comparrison to the Screamin Eagle tuner flash that the dealer did. The best part of the FP3 is that all flashes, including the bikes current flash are stored, and the bike can easily be reflashed back to any previous flash.

After being briefed at length by V & H on how to perform the Autotune my results were exactly what I had hoped for. However, I have not evaluated my mileage after the tune, but that was never my goal. That being said the FP3 does have a economy monitoring mode. Finally one of the best features is the ability to monitor an very large array of engine parameters such as intake and engine temps, torque, hp, and TPS info.

Ride safe.

 

I have a 2016 Harley Roadster. Stock I was getting about 42MPG and I was getting light decel pop in 1st 2nd and 3rd. Then I added a 4 inch open K&N type air cleaner and Bissani 3in slash cut slip ons. Of course the popping got A LOT worse. I bought a V&H FP3 and started tuning manually. I got it running really well but it still had some decel popping and I was getting 38mph now. I did more manual tuning with help from V&H and I now have gotten rid of ALL my decel popping, BUT I also only get 35mpg now. But for me the MPG does not matter. I bought the bike for riding to work and running around town and doing back road riding.

 

If you would like some more power, and to keep the decel pop at a minimum, And get back some of the mpg you lost (you are running so rich you are drowning out the decel pop which also results in a drop in power), check out the Thunder Torque Inserts HERE.

 

OK Thank you, I think over compensating for the popping may be my problem. I tuned the V&H FP3 to make it richer during decel and then I also used the Decel poping function on the FP3. So I kind of doubled the fix.

I will check into your product. I know DK is not far from me. in fact a friend of mine went to your office and picked up some rear lowering blocks for his 48 and I installed them for him. He is planning to come get some ignition coil and key relocation kits for him and I from DK also.

 

I didn't notice before, you are just up the road from us!

Decel popping can be heard on almost all aftermarket pipes. This is because they are open and when tuned for performance the AFR in the muffler body is just right for ignition of the unburned gasses.

The way that most folks try and get rid of decel pop is to over enrichen the AFR so that there is too much unburnt fuel in the muffler body to ignite. This is just a waste of fuel and does nothing to enhance performance.

btw, contrary to popular myth, decel pop is not generally a sign of a poorly tuned bike, rather, with open exhaust, if there is no decel pop, it is almost always a sign of a poorly tuned bike. Decel pop is almost always present with a properly tuned engine.

However, some folks do not like the sound of decel pop. There are two ways to get rid of it.

1. richen or lean the fuel, ONLY in a throttle off position.

2. Install some Thunder Torque Inserts which greatly reduce reversion, resulting in a change of AFR in the muffler bodies, and a reduction of decel pop as a result. BUT, the more important result of TTI's is that the reduction of reversion will Increase low and mid range torque, as well as MPG.

Come on down and visit us anytime! Might want to call ahead and make sure we have what you are wanting to pick up. Our shipping facility is in Memphis, our manufacturing & Customer Service is down in Red Banks, MS.

 

For the fp3 to ask to turn engine off and restart, you must first apply the data it learned. Than you're done.
Then continue to auto tune in the same slot you were in before?

 

Splatt, I should have been more specific: After the "data" has been applied, it will still need a few starts, a few rides, and few shut off/restart cycles to read/adjust the applied data.