"The Florida Crew" Rides and Information From The Florida Crew.

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Old Oct 7, 2012 | 09:35 PM
  #11  
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Thanks for the info everyone. Not sure what I'm gonna do but I'll figure out something when the time gets here.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 03:00 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by themensh
I have a screamin' eagle t-shirt.....so when some asks if I have 'screamin' eagle.
I want to be sincere....and one of the cheapest ways is to use the spark plugs! LOL
Now I have a SE air filter also!



For some reason, I thought fork oil was due to be changed at 50K?

chuck
For the Newer models it is, but change it at 20 when take a good look at the oil, will know why I change it at 20K ..
 

Last edited by JayStronghawk; Oct 8, 2012 at 03:03 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 12:59 PM
  #13  
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My bike is about to turn 20k... So I called HD in Miami they gave me a price of 318.00 plus tax. Waiting to heat back on the price if I do my own oil though... I prefer Mobil One Synthetic. So I'll do my own.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 02:25 PM
  #14  
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Just got a call back. If I do my own oils 20k maintenance will be 132.00
 
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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 07:40 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by JayStronghawk
For the Newer models it is, but change it at 20 when take a good look at the oil, will know why I change it at 20K ..
Figured I was doing good going by the schedule. (should change my oil twice a week going by the color.)
 
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 07:08 PM
  #16  
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Harley's recommendation of changing fork oil at 50k is HORSESHITT!!!
Buy a socket, put some plastic over the tube nuts to protect the chrome and pull the oil - even at 7k you will VOMIT when you see the crap that comes out of those tubes!
If you lived in Fla. where the roads are flat and you don't hit bumps, maybe you could go longer, but parts cost money - and I'd rather know that I have quality action up front.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 07:16 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Quadancer
Harley's recommendation of changing fork oil at 50k is HORSESHITT!!!
Buy a socket, put some plastic over the tube nuts to protect the chrome and pull the oil - even at 7k you will VOMIT when you see the crap that comes out of those tubes!
If you lived in Fla. where the roads are flat and you don't hit bumps, maybe you could go longer, but parts cost money - and I'd rather know that I have quality action up front.
All I was trying to point out .. Lived in FL all my life and we have dusty and hot conditions and plenty of bumpy roads as well.. But people can do as they please .. I will continue changing at 20 K and has worked well for me .. Have never had a set of seals go or any front end problems ..
 
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 08:11 PM
  #18  
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N. Ga is my playground, and we live on the boards/pegs. I can't afford to have things go to mush on me at any time, so I guess I'm more particular than most.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 11:30 PM
  #19  
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The hd suspension is a POS at best, on good roads or bad, you are right about the intitial fill, they are Showa guts, very cheap ones at that. You are wrong on your method of changing oil, you have to pull them to actually clean the internals, its quite a job if done right, if you dont want to disassemble and clean properly (like a gun) changing the shitty oil will do little as the viscosity performance of the oil remains the same. The issue is the damage the wear in use suspended particles does to the internals, not the oil itself, these abrasive particles drop out to the bottom and stick to the internals so dumping or sucking the oil from teh top does little. Pull your forks once and use mineral oil to clean with a white rag and you will see what I am talking about. While you are at it instal a race tech emulator. You will enjoy the great roads of Ga better if you do.

Originally Posted by Quadancer
N. Ga is my playground, and we live on the boards/pegs. I can't afford to have things go to mush on me at any time, so I guess I'm more particular than most.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 08:46 AM
  #20  
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Wish I could afford them. Bammyland hasn't been too nice to us construction folks.
I just posted about saving the chrome on the top fill nuts. Mine have the lower drain screws that makes it easy. It also allows most the gook to pump & drain out. Like an engine, if you change the oil regularly, things are gonna be a lot cleaner in there.
When I went to put on the 2 over tubes, my internals looked great; very little wear on the bushings. I even have the stockers with all gear up for sale.
As we used to say in our old Triumph shop, "Oil is cheaper than parts."
 
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