10K Maintenance
10K Maintenance
I'm about 200 miles to my 10K maintenance on my 2011 RGU. Low Country Harley up here in Charleston wants $460 to $500. Local independent dealer/mechanic want roughly $250. Only thing he says he does not do by default is change out fork oil. Since I'm only on my 2nd bike this 10K maintenance is new to me to have to deal with. I will have had the bike for 2-yrs a few days before Christmas this year.
Can't afford dealer prices. I put about 100 miles a week on it so I've got a few weeks to go to make a decision. Had my 5K done by an independent mechanic as well - just not the one above. No problems from that from what I can tell.
Any pros or cons for going with the independent dealer/mechanic vice Harley?
Thanks.
Bill
Can't afford dealer prices. I put about 100 miles a week on it so I've got a few weeks to go to make a decision. Had my 5K done by an independent mechanic as well - just not the one above. No problems from that from what I can tell.
Any pros or cons for going with the independent dealer/mechanic vice Harley?
Thanks.
Bill
Congratulations on hitting the 10K milestone.
The dealer does a "20 point" checklist and a 10K service schedule which I think is the same as the 1K service and doesn't call for the fork oil to be replaced. You can find the schedule at the Harley web site. Anyway this all comes to about 3 hours in labor. At 85-90 dollars an hour for labor you have 255-270 in labor alone plus the chrome filter(always chrome), fluids, gasket, shop supplies etc to get you to the mark.
If you are just looking to change fluids go to Walmart and get a jug of Mobile1 if you use synthetic and take it to the indy. He probably charges a lower hourly rate and the oil was cheaper.
Good luck
The dealer does a "20 point" checklist and a 10K service schedule which I think is the same as the 1K service and doesn't call for the fork oil to be replaced. You can find the schedule at the Harley web site. Anyway this all comes to about 3 hours in labor. At 85-90 dollars an hour for labor you have 255-270 in labor alone plus the chrome filter(always chrome), fluids, gasket, shop supplies etc to get you to the mark.
If you are just looking to change fluids go to Walmart and get a jug of Mobile1 if you use synthetic and take it to the indy. He probably charges a lower hourly rate and the oil was cheaper.
Good luck
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,294
Likes: 1
From: South FL
At 10k, you can save some buckc by DIY.
The forks' oil is not required to be changed. Change engine and primary oil, and you don't even need to change the transmission fluid, if it has been changed in the first 1000 miles service. I prefer Mobile 1 synthetic (v-twin).
Other than that, just check all the nuts and bolts for tightness.
You may want to add more grease in the handlebar collar.
If you prefer a shop service, then an Indy shop will be fine, and it will not void the warranty.
I do it myself as I don't trust any shop.
The forks' oil is not required to be changed. Change engine and primary oil, and you don't even need to change the transmission fluid, if it has been changed in the first 1000 miles service. I prefer Mobile 1 synthetic (v-twin).
Other than that, just check all the nuts and bolts for tightness.
You may want to add more grease in the handlebar collar.
If you prefer a shop service, then an Indy shop will be fine, and it will not void the warranty.
I do it myself as I don't trust any shop.
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 658
Likes: 25
From: Parrish, FL
I put in new spark plugs every 10,000 miles. It is a not really necessary, but since I do the service myself it only cost about $10 to do it. The fork oil change is recommended at 20,000 miles.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 9,254
Likes: 283
From: Lake City, Florida (Native)
I'm about 200 miles to my 10K maintenance on my 2011 RGU. Low Country Harley up here in Charleston wants $460 to $500. Local independent dealer/mechanic want roughly $250. Only thing he says he does not do by default is change out fork oil. Since I'm only on my 2nd bike this 10K maintenance is new to me to have to deal with. I will have had the bike for 2-yrs a few days before Christmas this year.
Can't afford dealer prices. I put about 100 miles a week on it so I've got a few weeks to go to make a decision. Had my 5K done by an independent mechanic as well - just not the one above. No problems from that from what I can tell.
Any pros or cons for going with the independent dealer/mechanic vice Harley?
Can't afford dealer prices. I put about 100 miles a week on it so I've got a few weeks to go to make a decision. Had my 5K done by an independent mechanic as well - just not the one above. No problems from that from what I can tell.
Any pros or cons for going with the independent dealer/mechanic vice Harley?
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Last edited by IncognitoProducts; Oct 6, 2012 at 02:09 PM. Reason: add Videos
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- PulstarŽ Technology burns fuel 60% quicker, than ANY Spark-plug on the market today
- 30-day money back guarantee!
- 2-year Warranty!
Pulstar Pulse Plugs are NOT Spark-Plugs... they are a direct replacement for Spark-Plugs. Pulse Plugs are based on the proven science of "Pulsed Power".
“The spark plugs in your motorcycle & car are just as feeble as the ones in your lawnmower. Each provides a measly 50-watt spark. For over 100 years, conventional wisdom assumed 50 watts was sufficient to efficiently ignite fuel. But, the PulstarŽ Pulse Plug is proving conventional wisdom wrong.”
For 100 years, ignition technology has been dominated by spark plugs. Pulse plugs are a radical departure from spark plugs. Their physical dimensions are the same as spark plugs because they have to interface with the engine and ignition system just like spark plugs. But this is where the similarity ends.
Pulse plugs incorporate a pulse circuit, which stores incoming electrical energy from the ignition system and releases the stored energy in a powerful pulse of power. Instead of 50 watts of peak power typical of all spark plugs, pulse plugs deliver up to 1 million watts of peak power. So where does the pulse plug get its incredible power?
When the ignition signal is sent to a traditional spark plug, it begins to ionize the spark gap. This means the voltage builds in the gap until a spark can be formed. During this ionization phase, which lasts about 5 millionths of a second, the incoming voltage (which has nowhere to go) heats up ignition components including the spark plug. This is wasted energy. When the ignition voltage overcomes the
resistance in the spark gap, the spark is created with an initial discharge of approximately 50 watts. Once created, the spark resides between the electrodes at very low power for over a period of 30 millionths of a second.
What’s different about a PulstarŽ Pulse Plug is instead of heating ignition parts during the ionization phase, this energy is stored in the integral circuit inside the pulse plug. When the ignition power overcomes the resistance in the spark gap, the pulse circuit discharges all of its accumulated power – 1 million watts – in 2 billionths of a second!
A simple way to think about pulse plugs is they are similar to a camera flash, whereas spark plugs are more like a flashlight. A camera flash is exponentially brighter than a flashlight even though they both may use the same battery.
With increased cylinder pressure, the pistons are pushed down with more force, which, in turn, generates more torque in the crankshaft, more liveliness to the throttle and more power to the wheels.
Of course, if you don’t use this torque to go faster, the engine does its work with less effort resulting in better fuel economy.
Another way PulstarŽ improves efficiency is by reducing cycle-to-cycle variation. Cycle-to-cycle variation occurs in every engine to some degree and is caused by the dynamics of combustion, load, fuel quality, mixture of air to fuel and many other combustion variables. These variables can cause the spark plug to generate a weak spark and in the worst case, a misfire. This variability in ignition timing robs all spark ignited, internal combustion engines of up to 10% of their efficiency.
The powerful spark of PulstarŽ ignites fuel more precisely, which can reduce cycle-to-cycle variation by up to 50%. This is an important contribution to improving fuel economy.
Last edited by IncognitoProducts; Oct 6, 2012 at 05:39 PM. Reason: Add pic.
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Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,961
Likes: 263
From: Conroe Texas
Stick with the stock plugs, no SE plugs or anything else, the Harley ECU is very sensitive to any changes in the ignition system, stick with stockers, everything else is snake oil. I change mine every time I change the oils out of habit. I agree with Jay, $250 is a good price if it includes changing fork oil (ths is a pain in the *** job), now you have to ask yourself, what kind of fork oil you will put in? Also, since you will have the forks apart why not throw in some race tech emulators? Clean and lube the calipers (pistons) on the front wheel since it will also be off, check those bearings.
Last edited by masterblaster; Oct 7, 2012 at 07:37 AM.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,331
Likes: 56
From: north of Daytona
I have a screamin' eagle t-shirt.....so when some asks if I have 'screamin' eagle.
I want to be sincere....and one of the cheapest ways is to use the spark plugs! LOL
Now I have a SE air filter also!
For some reason, I thought fork oil was due to be changed at 50K?
chuck
I want to be sincere....and one of the cheapest ways is to use the spark plugs! LOL
Now I have a SE air filter also!
For some reason, I thought fork oil was due to be changed at 50K?
chuck