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I recently purchased an Aluma MC10. It has a pull out ramp, all aluminum construction, a rock guard and a small drop tail. I find it very easy to load, pull and move around. I don't see a way to easily add a rock guard to the ramp free, this would be a near deal killer for me.
A buddy has had a bad back for a few years now. He has an enclosed trailer with an electric wench to assist. Also has a Wheeldock chock to hold the bike in place. The chock is flat and does not have that 'bump'.
Also is the power coating holding up or is it flaking off like the Kendon. Thanks in advance for all thoughts, Be Safe JIM
I sold my Kendon after two years as the paint underneath was completely worn off and the metal covered with rust. I used the trailer to move Vintage bikes. My engine guy is on the other side of the mountains, so that trailer got a fair amount of hwy miles. often in the rain. But I was surprised how poorly the powder coat/paint held up underneath. It was only chipping off in a few places on the top.
If I had kept it, I would have sand blasted and undercoated it. I just checked my files to see if I had a photo of the rust but they have been deleted.
Trailer design was good and it worked well for me as a bike hauler. Just did not like the rusting. I did not use the Kendon ramp, in fact I never took it off. I had an alum ramp, longer, bowed and easy to push and bike up and into the chock.
I had a 6 x 10 older covered trailer and replaced it and the Kendon with a Craigs List deal Pace 6 x 12 set up for two harley Touring bikes. Love it. Tows like a dream, low height and 6' wide make towing with my Explorer V-6 a piece of pie..urr, cake. I move vintage bikes to shows etc, but my friends have used this trailer mid winter to enjoy weeks of riding in the South West and to recover a bike due to a broken foot incident in Yellowstone. (Bike was okay, we now had one rider short and had to move three bikes with two riders.)
Last edited by son of the hounds; Oct 8, 2014 at 10:33 AM.
I've had the ramp free for about 9 months. Well constructed but I found the incerts for my feet were a little narrow for the Street Glide when you load the bike. I decided to add some extra treated wood pieces to widen the foot placements. This has helped me feel secure. When you are riding into the chock the foot placements stop a little short and I didn't feel good about this so I extended them as much as I can. You also can't see the chock at least on a Street Glide so I have my wife help line me up. It's somewhat exciting riding the final foot or so into the chock but it holds the bike well. Once you raise the trailer back up when loaded, which does take a little effort cranking the strap, it is easy to secure the two parts together with the lock pieces included. The strap is loosened slightly while towing. It isn't hard to move around but you do have to have it separated from the vehicle to load or unload. I know it sounds like I'm disappointed with it but after my modifications I'm happy and it's a dream to tow. You don't know it's there. If you can I'd strongly advise loading you bike onto it yourself and seeing how your back holds up before you purchase. There is some work involved and I'd be ok unloading it myself but I'd like help loading the bike. Hope this helps.
They had One at a local swap meet, so I got to look at it. Nicely made. I'd concur with the poster above on his points.
The suspension design does allow for fabricating a lowering mechanism so you could load and unload while hitched. It would involve a second step, where you would move the suspension, dropping the tail of the trailer to the ground, and then drop the front of the deck to the ground. You could do it very similarly to the current deck lowering mechanism. It would move each wheel outboard about six inches.
For 3k may as well grab a haulmark 9ft v-nose box trailer with ramp door. Have one and love it, primarily used as my bikes garage, i usually ride where im going. It is a TOURING bike
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