Problems after Bar Install
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Tourer
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 283
Likes: 3
From: Guymon, OK
Can someone run down how to pull codes on this bike?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 10,637
Likes: 1,246
From: Lake, Ms
Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 222
Likes: 7
From: Palm Springs
I did my apes 2 months ago (first time I do them) and I had no issues but I did solder the wires in staggered form, used heat shrink on each wire and also used heat shrink on all the wires....I know some will say its overkill, but I wanted to make sure I didn' t have issues.....I have a feeling you will need to dissasemble everything
Last edited by Warbird40; Oct 8, 2014 at 07:16 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 10,637
Likes: 1,246
From: Lake, Ms
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,006
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From: On the Front Range, CO
I agree with all the others. You've got an electrical problem with your wiring. With cruise, on a fairing bike that is TBW, you've got about 30 wires. Lots of room for error there.
That said, as much of a pain it may be, I'd remove your bars and start fresh. Thoroughly inspect each wire to make sure that it's fully insulated. Each bundle of wires should be protected again with heat shrink, as a bundle.
The green connector on the TBW assembly should be removed. Eliminate entirely, and solder those wires back together. Or, purchase the CVO assembly, as it does not contain the green plug.
Make sure that you're brake and clutch interlock switches weren't damaged by your levers when you reinstalled the control housing and perches back together on the new bars. There are also small shims that hold those interlock switches into the proper place within the control housings.
Lastly, make sure you have the pins in the correct locations and that they're fully seated within the connectors. Don't forget the secondary locks that must be snapped back into place too. The connectors have numbers on the face where the wires are inserted that provide reference of the sequence of each slot.
Hope this helps...
That said, as much of a pain it may be, I'd remove your bars and start fresh. Thoroughly inspect each wire to make sure that it's fully insulated. Each bundle of wires should be protected again with heat shrink, as a bundle.
The green connector on the TBW assembly should be removed. Eliminate entirely, and solder those wires back together. Or, purchase the CVO assembly, as it does not contain the green plug.
Make sure that you're brake and clutch interlock switches weren't damaged by your levers when you reinstalled the control housing and perches back together on the new bars. There are also small shims that hold those interlock switches into the proper place within the control housings.
Lastly, make sure you have the pins in the correct locations and that they're fully seated within the connectors. Don't forget the secondary locks that must be snapped back into place too. The connectors have numbers on the face where the wires are inserted that provide reference of the sequence of each slot.
Hope this helps...
