When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I agree, when replacing brake fluid, if you don't allow the reservoir to run dry, and introduce air into the system, the abs bleeds the same as regular brakes.
Here's the procedure I used. With ignition off I removed reservoir then I set up the Mighty Vac and hooked it up to the left caliper(furthest from the reservoir)pumped it up to around 25 and then opened the nipple and nothing came out. Tomorrow I will try the old fasioned way and pump the hand lever and drain it into a bucket.......... I dunno thanks for all the help fellas its appreciated greatly........
I tried to bleed the front brakes(to change out the fluid)and ran into a problem. It won't bleed. I removed the front brake reservoir cover, hooked up the Mighty Vac to the bleed fitting, pumped it up, opened the bleed fitting and no fluid will come out! I have read through some threads here on how to do this and know about the electronic thingy you have to hook up but I saw that wasn't needed............ What the F did I do wrong now for God's sake?
The vac only applies suction. You still have to pump the brakes with the mighty vac set up. The mighty vac saves you from having to open and close bleed nipples and gives the extracted fluid a canister to go into.
Just because you applied suction does not mean fluid will just run out.
You need to pump.
The vac only applies suction. You still have to pump the brakes with the mighty vac set up. The mighty vac saves you from having to open and close bleed nipples and gives the extracted fluid a canister to go into.
Just because you applied suction does not mean fluid will just run out. You need to pump.
Your shittin Me?
Never once in my thread did I say I was smart.................. Thank God......
Thanks Man, I'll try it the correct way tomorrow and report back....
I have done a TON of these bikes with ABS. Never needed a Digi Tech...All the Digi Tech does is cycle the module to remove air from it. No need UNLESS you cyclee the ignition with air in the system...The bike in my sig pic has ABS...
Fair enough, I have Techno Research so i've never tried to do it without using it. Learn something new everyday. So even when changing out lines and having the system completely dry huh?
Fair enough, I have Techno Research so i've never tried to do it without using it. Learn something new everyday. So even when changing out lines and having the system completely dry huh?
My bike is over 5 years old so it was way overdue for a brake fluid flush. This is for NON-ABS!!!!!"........speak to abs guys or consult manual for abs.
I did front n rear in 30 painless minutes. Here's how.
I bought a $30.00 brake vacuum bleeder kit from Harbor Freight.
I'm not a big fan of the quality of some stuff of theirs but when you use a tool once every 5 years to do a job.....this brake bleeder kit was perfect.
It came with everything. 14 piece set.
The procedure:
Attach the brake bleeder hose to the caliper nipple ( book says do left side first for those with front dual calipers)
Take off your front brake master cylinder cover. Make sure your bars are turned full left to position the master cylinder even while on the jiffy stand. Do this carefully and preferably indoors also so no debris blow into your open M.S. & contaminate your fluid.
Go back to the hand pump now and pump her up to 20 hg vacuum.
While holding the vacuum pumps nipple attachment firmly on the calipers nipple, open the bleed nipple a few turns with your (in my case) 3/8 open end wrench.
At this point you should be ready to go.
You now have a vacuum sucking so when you pump the brake lever it will suck the fluid into the container which is attached to your bleed kit.
The only things you have to do is:
1) don't spill a drop of DOT 4 on your paint because DOT 4 Eats Paint.
2) don't pump the lever without having your eyes in the master cylinder resovour
3) Do Not pump all the fluid out at one time or you will inject air into your system!!!!!!!!!!!!
I'd recommend pumping the master cylinder below half and filling her back up and continue this process until you have filled the harbor freights bleed jar up which is attached to the vacuum pump 2 times per master cylinder.
Then retighten the calipers bleed screw, gently remove the harbor freight bleed/vacuum pump. Wipe up any drop of dot 4 from the caliper so the wind doesn't blow that drop on your paint.
Refill the master cylinder and take a second to clean/wipe the lip of the master cylinder clean as well as it's other half carefully and reinstall the m.s. cover.
Repeat for the rear.
This whole process took me about 30 minutes and 30 bucks. Worked for me. Thought I'd share it.
Later
this is from a post of mine back in August. Hope it helps.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.