I know this has been covered a few times, but thought I would share. Just did fork oil in my 2012 Limited (18,000 miles) and the old oil was pretty nasty. I wanted to include a few things if you are considering doing yours for the first time. The easy process of changing the oil with forks on the bike has been covered here several times, so I won't go into the process itself. I just wanted to include a list of what you will need as well as a couple tricks and observations that may save you some time/headache.

Ratio-Rite to measure fork oil (I used 10.7 oz. per fork)
Syringe (holds 2 oz.) sourced from local farm supply - $2.00
Fork Oil - I used Amsoil #10 - $10.00 qt.
(2) Oil Seals HD#45733-48 - $2.40
(2) Lower Fork Drain Screws HD#45858-77 - $6.10
1 3/8" Wrench from Amazon $12.02 (Tried H/F and usual places - no luck)


Observations:

* - Easy job, ignition switch R/R takes some patience, but plenty of You-Tube videos on how-to. I found this one most helpful: I used a large screwdriver to move it from lock position so I could move the forks, whereas he made a tool. I found out later that by using the screwdriver, the tumblers can get out of alignment which created about 30 minutes of fussing to get it back in properly. His tool is a good idea, but I struggled through without one.

* - Definitely cover your front fender and tank with a towel.

* - I used a ratchet, socket and large phillips bit to remove drain screws (see pic) they were in VERY tight.

* - Measured oil drained from each fork. Initially only 7 oz. came out from each leg - even after sitting overnight. I figured it was just short from the factory. The next morning I put the drain screws back in and bounced the forks a few times - then let it settle for 10 minutes. Got another 3 oz. out of each fork!!!! VERY GLAD I DID THIS. Had I not, I would have left 3 oz. in each leg and been significantly overfilled in the end. Bouncing the forks a few times after they have initially finished draining is a MUST.

* - I used a syringe purchased from local farm supply to add oil - worked extremely well.

* - Next time I will just purchase two copper washers from a hardware store. No sense paying $6 from dealer (they sell the new screws and washers as a set) each time.

* - Torqued drain screws to 80 In. Lbs

* - Unable to torque fork caps with wrench, just snugged tight. They were fairly loose to begin with - came off nicely.

Hopefully some of this info will make it a little easier for those who have not done this yet.

Ride Safe....

 

I used a large screwdriver with no issues, but it's been suggested here that you could simply re-install the ignition switch temporarily while draining/refilling the fork oil. Can't confirm that this works but seems like a no-brainer.

 

Thanks for video.

 

this is on my to do list, thanks for the tips.

 

My list too, if I ever git a cold weekend here in Texas.

 

You may need these Harley Ignition Switch Tool
Motion Pro Fork Cap Nut Socket - 08-0139 Harley Motorcycle - Dennis Kirk, Inc