How long
I usually buy something and keep it but ..........I have an 09 Ultra with about 69K miles on it - had it since new. Several top ends later I am really just wondering if I should be thinking about dumping it and looking for something else. Eacc time I get it back I think it should be good to go. Have a lot in it and its set up pretty good for my liking and would like to just keep it but the motor is another story.
When new I had requested the 103 kit and when I picked it up it didn't take long to think something wasn't right and eventually figured out the shop didn't get the message from sales for the 103 and it came with a tuner only. Then decided to change it but went with an S&S 106. (My hit) It had a bad ring land design and it had to be re built twice. (On them I might add) Then,ESP covered a loose rocker arm and push rod caused by an "oiling issue" I never got a better explanation on that. Then what started out as a rocker box leak and shifter shaft leak ended up as stripped threads in one of the cylinder heads.
There are two HD dealers in town and I had changed from the dealer I bought it at to the other one and I had decided to go back to the original guys. They discovered the stripped bolts and said the guys across town had it last and it was their fault and of course the guys across town said it was the original guys problem.........I lost out on that one too In the process decided to go with the cnc heads and I just took it in for a base gasket leak and was told the cylinder walls need bored. (ESP this time)
So about once a year this thing gets torn down and I just wonder how many more chances I have to have it run mor than a year at a time.
Maybe mostly sob story but would like to know how many just keep trading every couple of years and how many keep what they have and how much problems do the "keepers" have to deal with.
I don't beat on it hardly at all, its a daily driver - 50 a day for work and and 2 - 3 times a year a weekend trip but not to the races so its has a pretty soft life.
Sorry for the rant - it was a short as I could keep it
When new I had requested the 103 kit and when I picked it up it didn't take long to think something wasn't right and eventually figured out the shop didn't get the message from sales for the 103 and it came with a tuner only. Then decided to change it but went with an S&S 106. (My hit) It had a bad ring land design and it had to be re built twice. (On them I might add) Then,ESP covered a loose rocker arm and push rod caused by an "oiling issue" I never got a better explanation on that. Then what started out as a rocker box leak and shifter shaft leak ended up as stripped threads in one of the cylinder heads.
There are two HD dealers in town and I had changed from the dealer I bought it at to the other one and I had decided to go back to the original guys. They discovered the stripped bolts and said the guys across town had it last and it was their fault and of course the guys across town said it was the original guys problem.........I lost out on that one too In the process decided to go with the cnc heads and I just took it in for a base gasket leak and was told the cylinder walls need bored. (ESP this time)
So about once a year this thing gets torn down and I just wonder how many more chances I have to have it run mor than a year at a time.
Maybe mostly sob story but would like to know how many just keep trading every couple of years and how many keep what they have and how much problems do the "keepers" have to deal with.
I don't beat on it hardly at all, its a daily driver - 50 a day for work and and 2 - 3 times a year a weekend trip but not to the races so its has a pretty soft life.
Sorry for the rant - it was a short as I could keep it
I keep my stuff a long time*
General comment: the closer to stock the longer service life. I take my bikes to stage 1 and leave it there.
I have had a couple of evos up over 80K.
For any owner- the time to consider a change is when you no longer have confidence in the machine.
and/or when your finances allow you a new bike without missing the mortgage payment.
If you live debt-free, you can about do what ever you want.
you have a history of motor issues, and are dependent on others to work on your bike ( which is a whole other aspect of the confidence issue).
as far as the chassis, it should be great for another 20, 30, 50 thousand miles at some point in time bushings, mounts and belt will wear out.
Mike
* I've had one bike since '83, my FXR since 1990, my '53 since 1995, and I had my 95 to 2010 when i sold it ( at 82,000) for the 09
General comment: the closer to stock the longer service life. I take my bikes to stage 1 and leave it there.
I have had a couple of evos up over 80K.
For any owner- the time to consider a change is when you no longer have confidence in the machine.
and/or when your finances allow you a new bike without missing the mortgage payment.
If you live debt-free, you can about do what ever you want.
you have a history of motor issues, and are dependent on others to work on your bike ( which is a whole other aspect of the confidence issue).
as far as the chassis, it should be great for another 20, 30, 50 thousand miles at some point in time bushings, mounts and belt will wear out.
Mike
* I've had one bike since '83, my FXR since 1990, my '53 since 1995, and I had my 95 to 2010 when i sold it ( at 82,000) for the 09
Last edited by mkguitar; Jan 12, 2015 at 05:24 PM.
Boy! that is a big question.
I don't look at years so much as I look at miles. I was advised a few years ago by a long time Harley rider as to when to trade for the next bike. He has been riding Harleys for 35 years and typically like to get a one year old bike with less than a 1000 miles, then gets rid of it before it hits the 10,000 mile. He said, and I have found this to be true, that most buyers consider bikes with less than 10,000 miles to be same as new. Once it crosses the 10,000 mile mark, it looses about 5 to 10 percent. Bikes tend to drop about the same value at the 20,000, 25,000 and 30,000 mile marks. Interestingly bike values seem to stablize after 30,000 miles. So your bike has about the same value of a 30,000 mile bike.
So, to answer your question, I usually trade in a bike under 25,000 miles. That's about every five years for me. I can't help it, I am always thinking about what I can get for my bikes and I'm willing to loose about 20 percent value before I drive myself nuts.
In my opinion, a patient person could just about break even with a new bike every year if they are willing to get an 18 month old motorcycle. 18 months because that is the winter after the new year introduction. Now that doesn't include Tag/Title and Tax, which can be a lot for a Harly. There are a lot of 18 month old bikes with less than a 1000 miles.
Beary
I don't look at years so much as I look at miles. I was advised a few years ago by a long time Harley rider as to when to trade for the next bike. He has been riding Harleys for 35 years and typically like to get a one year old bike with less than a 1000 miles, then gets rid of it before it hits the 10,000 mile. He said, and I have found this to be true, that most buyers consider bikes with less than 10,000 miles to be same as new. Once it crosses the 10,000 mile mark, it looses about 5 to 10 percent. Bikes tend to drop about the same value at the 20,000, 25,000 and 30,000 mile marks. Interestingly bike values seem to stablize after 30,000 miles. So your bike has about the same value of a 30,000 mile bike.
So, to answer your question, I usually trade in a bike under 25,000 miles. That's about every five years for me. I can't help it, I am always thinking about what I can get for my bikes and I'm willing to loose about 20 percent value before I drive myself nuts.
In my opinion, a patient person could just about break even with a new bike every year if they are willing to get an 18 month old motorcycle. 18 months because that is the winter after the new year introduction. Now that doesn't include Tag/Title and Tax, which can be a lot for a Harly. There are a lot of 18 month old bikes with less than a 1000 miles.
Beary
Speaking to a friend of the family only today (about cars admittedly) he said he always trades for a new car when the warranty runs out. In almost 50 yours of riding bikes I have never adopted that approach, changing a few of them after only a short time and mileage, for various reasons, but keeping others for many years and high mileages. So I don't have a single approach to keeping vehicles, cars and bikes.
It sounds as if you've had a torrid time with your bike and I for one would certainly consider changing it. If you can afford a new current bike you will get the benefits of more performance from a Rushmore engine, plus other improvements that will make the change worthwhile IMHO.
It sounds as if you've had a torrid time with your bike and I for one would certainly consider changing it. If you can afford a new current bike you will get the benefits of more performance from a Rushmore engine, plus other improvements that will make the change worthwhile IMHO.
If i traded in before 25 k i would trade just about annually.
Op, i tend to keep thing a long time as well however i also recognize that sometimes its best to move on.
When does that happen, the first time anything mechanical leaves me stranded and not feeling good about my scoot.
Now im not talking flat tire or something minor like a voltage regulator, hell even a blown engine sometimes is a blessing in disguise .
Im talking real on the road can't get it fixed for two or three days stranded. Even if ESP is covering.
Then its time to trade. This will usually happen after two sometimes three repairs in a row then bam. Something thats head scratching can't figure it out wrong.
Its called a loss of confidence in your machine. Once that happens...
Then its time to move on, take you licks and get a new to you scoot.
My thoughts.
Op, i tend to keep thing a long time as well however i also recognize that sometimes its best to move on.
When does that happen, the first time anything mechanical leaves me stranded and not feeling good about my scoot.
Now im not talking flat tire or something minor like a voltage regulator, hell even a blown engine sometimes is a blessing in disguise .
Im talking real on the road can't get it fixed for two or three days stranded. Even if ESP is covering.
Then its time to trade. This will usually happen after two sometimes three repairs in a row then bam. Something thats head scratching can't figure it out wrong.
Its called a loss of confidence in your machine. Once that happens...
Then its time to move on, take you licks and get a new to you scoot.
My thoughts.
I think if I were you, I would think about changing the motor out for a long block.
S&S has a 111" and a 124" long block. S&S has bullet proof lower ends with the Timken bearings. Then you could turn around and sell the original motor.
You could get a really nice set up for about $7K. Probably a lot cheaper than trading in.
Another option would be to take it to Fuel Moto and they would re-do the top end to 107 for a couple grand.
S&S has a 111" and a 124" long block. S&S has bullet proof lower ends with the Timken bearings. Then you could turn around and sell the original motor.
You could get a really nice set up for about $7K. Probably a lot cheaper than trading in.
Another option would be to take it to Fuel Moto and they would re-do the top end to 107 for a couple grand.
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Bad mechanics and bad machine work never give happy or long-life results. But that's already been covered.
So I'll simply add that when you modify an engine you create greater stresses in that engine. For example, A maximum cylinder bore results in the thinnest of cylinder walls. Thin cylinder walls flex and distort more easily than thicker stock walls.
So I'll simply add that when you modify an engine you create greater stresses in that engine. For example, A maximum cylinder bore results in the thinnest of cylinder walls. Thin cylinder walls flex and distort more easily than thicker stock walls.
These are my opinions, worth every penny you'll pay for them…
I would think about keeping the bike and replacing the engine with a stock HD engine. Harley has a remanufactured-engine program. I believe I'd look at that. Or, simply a new crate motor. But I think the remanufactured program would be just as reliable. Sell what's in it now, either parted-out or otherwise. Then, stick with a single service provider so there's no finger-pointing between dealers/mechanics if further issues arise.
The other option is obviously to sell the current bike and start fresh again. If you go that route, you might think about a Stage I only, maybe cams/tune/pipes, and call it a day on mods. Once again, do all your business with a single dealer. If you ride a lot of miles (20K a year or more), get an extended warranty. That many miles the warranty will likely pay for itself in 5-7 years. Less than 20k miles/year, it's not so sure a thing, but still something I'd consider.
The deal with jumping between dealers is kind of weird. I'd either settle on one (sounds like you have), or find a dealer you trust better in a nearby city. As you've found, leaving any 'wiggle' room, room for uncertainty for who's responsible for failures/faults, and you'll have a heck of a time pinning anyone down and will have to cover issues out of pocket or spend time in court with no guarantees you'll prevail.
Good luck.
Alan
I would think about keeping the bike and replacing the engine with a stock HD engine. Harley has a remanufactured-engine program. I believe I'd look at that. Or, simply a new crate motor. But I think the remanufactured program would be just as reliable. Sell what's in it now, either parted-out or otherwise. Then, stick with a single service provider so there's no finger-pointing between dealers/mechanics if further issues arise.
The other option is obviously to sell the current bike and start fresh again. If you go that route, you might think about a Stage I only, maybe cams/tune/pipes, and call it a day on mods. Once again, do all your business with a single dealer. If you ride a lot of miles (20K a year or more), get an extended warranty. That many miles the warranty will likely pay for itself in 5-7 years. Less than 20k miles/year, it's not so sure a thing, but still something I'd consider.
The deal with jumping between dealers is kind of weird. I'd either settle on one (sounds like you have), or find a dealer you trust better in a nearby city. As you've found, leaving any 'wiggle' room, room for uncertainty for who's responsible for failures/faults, and you'll have a heck of a time pinning anyone down and will have to cover issues out of pocket or spend time in court with no guarantees you'll prevail.
Good luck.
Alan













