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Rerouting clutch cable???????

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Old Jan 7, 2021 | 03:49 PM
  #11  
BackRoader's Avatar
BackRoader
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Joined: May 2008
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From: Joplin, MO
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Dayummm! Someone resurrects one of these old threads and I fall into it every time.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2022 | 05:31 PM
  #12  
Richardhedd's Avatar
Richardhedd
Stage I
Joined: Apr 2022
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From: Oshkosh WI
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Originally Posted by BackRoader
Route the cable under your stereo system behind the fairing, instead of behind and over the top. This will give you enough extra cable to keep it run out the original hole in the fairing dash.
I know this is an OLD thread. But it seems when I search for stuff for my 2008 Street glide I end up with mostly old threads. I get a ton of info from them. But my point of replying is that I routed mine like this and now I’m paying for it. It continued to bind inside the fairing and even though it wasn’t noticeable it was pulling the clutch when I turned and who knows when else. But it was also stressing the cable outside the fairing. Now just a few months later I’m replacing my cable. Well at least the top half. But what makes it even worse is I’m in the middle of replacing my transmission main bearing/seal, inner primary bearing and race (which walked), my compensator, my tensioner (upgrading from the original oem that had problems to the supposed improved oem), as well as some other odds n ends since I’m so in depth. I got to the point this morning to finding out my clutch disks were within spec and I didn’t have to sit in limbo with them being so hard to get and could start reassembling my bike after 2 weeks of down time and working on it as I had time to keep finding one thing after another. Now here I sit because I didn’t do something I should have before 🤦🏻‍♂️😂. I have 10” LA Chopper touring apes on my bike and was able to make all the wires work as well as brake lines, but should have gone with a +2” or +4” clutch cable.

On another note if anyone wants to know how to make some DIY Harley transmission tools and save A LOT of money, I may know a way or two. 😂
 
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