Hey guys
I've been looking at the various lowering blocks that are for sale. I have 14 road King and some of the products state " only use with stock shocks". My question is I have stk 12" air shocks from a street glide on my bike is that considered stk shock? Or will this only work if I put my 13" air shocks back on?

I'm having my seat narrowed next but if I still need to lower it this is the next option. Figured I'd ask u guys and see if u know.

Btw I'm 5'5"
Thanks!!!

 

"stock" would be the 13"

some of the lowering blocks available have a questionable mount which allows the adpater or lowering block to rotate UP on extension of the shocks.

be careful with this.

I have a set that I put on for the weekend and pulled off because of this- I'd lend them to you if you were local.

Mike

 

Same here. i just took them off my 09 Ultra. i had them on there for a few months but it's not really good for the shocks and you need to lower the front to cuz it does make a slight difference in handling. JMHO

 

The main concern is bottoming out the tire in the fender. You can tear out wiring and rip the tire up. As for handling, it does change it, but you will find that in every bike you ride. They will all handle differently until you get used to them. The same with riding with or without a passenger.

 

http://www.meancitycycles.com/ they can narrow and lower your seat for you.

 

The issue is clearance. The tire on a stock setup will begin to hit the fender at 9.5 inches, center of mounting bolt to center of mounting bolt. Harley knows this and builds in a 1/4 inch spare space with all their shocks. The stock length shocks are 12 3/4 inches with 3 inches total travel, and the "lowered" shocks are 12 inches in length with 2.25 inches of travel. Both shocks will bottom out at the desired 9 3/4 inches, leaving that 1/4 inch safety margin. If you put lowering blocks on either set, you run the risk of hitting the fender. But with added air pressure, most people are able to come to a happy medium where you can still ride it without hitting the fender with the tire. Also note, that Harley finally figured this problem out and in 2010 or there abouts, moved the wiring harnes over so that if you DID whack the fender with the tire, it would not shread the harness.

That being said, most of the warning about "use only with stock shocks" has more to do with aftermarket shocks hitting parts of the bike, such as the saddlebags, than bottoming out. Larger, better performing aftermarket shock won't clear the saddlebags with lowering blocks, were as the puny stock air shocks usually will.

 

I have a 14 SG with air shocks and put on CA Choppers lowering blocks that dropped it an inch. My problem was that it caused the shocks to rub on the bags so I ended up taking them off.

 

I would just stay away from lowering blocks if you can avoid them. Custom seat modification is you next best option. As someone mentioned, MeanCityCycles is the best way to go. If that doesn't get you low enough then probably just need a different bike.

 

I ran burly lowering blocks with 12" SG shocks on my 14 RK no problems even riding 2 up no bottoming out or rubbing fender, and did not rub the bags . The ride was as good as 12" shocks are by them selves.

 

This is regarding an 04 Road King, but probably the same issues with your 14. I put LA Choppers 1" lowering blocks on that 04 RK. I had 13" Ohlins shocks. The net effect was a 1" lowered bike in the rear, versus stock with 13" shocks. It rode great.

There were two areas of 'interference' regarding the lowering blocks. The first thing was, the lowering blocks interfered slightly with the lower shock mounting eye. I had to space the shocks out on both sides to clear the lowering blocks. I don't remember how much, but it wasn't much.

The second area of interference was, as stated by someone else, with the lowering blocks in place the shocks hit the bags. I had to space the bags outward a bit in order to clear the shocks. (Note you're moving everything 'outward' on the back of the bike, so you're going to have a slightly different look. The 14's have that spacer between the fender and bags, so you need to consider how that is going to appear with the bags spaced out 1/2" inch, or so, on each side.)

I had metal spacers already (from another project), and bought new, longer Grade 8 bolts.

So the lowering blocks will work. But you'll have to do some measuring, and light fabrication (cutting spacers) to pull it all together.

I chose the LA Choppers blocks because their design was such they didn't change the angle of the shocks. Some lowering blocks lay the shocks down a bit more than stock, in the vertical plane. Also, the LA Choppers' blocks are made such, they aren't going to break, or spin. Once you attach them to the swing arm (using a little Blue Loctite on the bolts), they ain't going anywhere. They become like part of the swing arm.

I personally would not lower the bike 2" in the rear. You could probably get away with it though if the weight you're carrying is relatively light, i.e., you don't weigh so much, and/or you don't ride with anyone. The sweet spot (in my estimation) is to put on 13" shocks, with their full stroke (for a softer ride), and lower the bike 1" using the blocks. On my own '14 SG, I bought Ohlins 3-3s and did away with lowering blocks and 12" shocks altogether. I decided the ride quality beat out the looks--looks were my prime motive for lowering the bike.

As for getting the bike so low in the rear the tire hits the inside of the fender, I was told the wiring runs along the side of the fender and the tire will hit the outer circumference of the fender without hitting the wiring. The problem comes in when there's contact between the tire and fender itself. If this contact is severe enough, it'll heat the fender and screw the paint up. Also, obviously it's going to wear the tire some, every time the tire hits, not to mention it'll be like bottoming-out on the suspension each time it happens. Plus, there's that nut there the seat-bolt mates to. The tire's going to hit it when it kisses the fender, causing issues.

With the seat worked for a shorter inseam, I presume they take out some padding. This could make the ride a little harsher in itself. I'd think about the 13" shock with the lowering blocks. That might give you the stance you need, with the comfort not being so compromised. My experience is, for any given shock, the 12" variant is going to be less comfortable to ride on than the 13". Springs are made stiffer when there's less travel available to absorb the road bumps. If you can get good comfort, and still get the bike low enough to be handled easily, that seems to be the best of both worlds.

Alan