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Old Feb 20, 2015 | 09:50 PM
  #11  
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Slip on about any other mufflers with 2" cores and you will see a decent change on the low end.
Those CFR's kill the bottom.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2015 | 02:46 AM
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Hey; I'm supposed to be the only Dickey here!
 
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Old Feb 21, 2015 | 05:12 AM
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Originally Posted by dickey
Hey; I'm supposed to be the only Dickey here!
Oh boy. This is going to be confusing!
 
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Old Feb 21, 2015 | 06:14 AM
  #14  
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Take a look at the S&S 570 cams or the woods 6H/HO, if lift doesn't mean a lot then just a woods 6. These would be my choices for your engine if you truly have 10.5 comp.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2015 | 06:41 AM
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Originally Posted by WI Bob
Slip on about any other mufflers with 2" cores and you will see a decent change on the low end.
Those CFR's kill the bottom.


As mentioned above, the SE204 is a god choice too, but that SE203 is a real stump puller!
(The added compression might be too much for the 203.)

If you need to stay with the SE/HD cams, the SE251 is also a very solid cam for the earlier Twin Cams (pre-2006/07).

I'd take a look at the Andrews 37.... this cam likes the added compression, and it's very similar to the SE203.
The Andrews 57H is a very strong 2007-up cam, and is basically a high-lift version of the Andrews 37.
This is a quiet running cam (low valve-train noise) and can be found for $225 online.


.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2015 | 09:49 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Joker65


As mentioned above, the SE204 is a god choice too, but that SE203 is a real stump puller!
(The added compression might be too much for the 203.)

If you need to stay with the SE/HD cams, the SE251 is also a very solid cam for the earlier Twin Cams (pre-2006/07).

I'd take a look at the Andrews 37.... this cam likes the added compression, and it's very similar to the SE203.
The Andrews 57H is a very strong 2007-up cam, and is basically a high-lift version of the Andrews 37.
This is a quiet running cam (low valve-train noise) and can be found for $225 online.


.
I went with your advice and installed the SE251 cam, I have to say I'm very happy with the performance since the install.. I did go back to the Rineharts too... I still have to get it tuned, but what a difference!

One thing I am noticing is a lot of valve train noise... It didn't start right away, it took about a mile before I really noticed it... I'm going to check the pushrod adjustment again, make sure there was no movement.

I made a phone call inquiring about how to adjust them after they have been sitting for a couple weeks and I was told to do it the same way as I did it new. Tighten up for no free play, then 2 1/2 turns to compress the lifter. Which is what I did.

I questioned this because I didnt know if the lifters sitting for 2 weeks would pump back up, or whether they would stay down to the compressed state that they were in when I removed the push rods. If the latter is true, I didn't want to over compress the lifter piston. I know there is only about .100"-.200" of travel depending on the manufacturer, mine are S&S.

Now I have read that these are noisy cams, its just weird to me, sounds like a sewing machine... Makes me doubt something, installation, oil pressure, etc...


Any comments or suggestions are appreciated.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2015 | 11:37 AM
  #17  
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It's common practice to check and reset the pushrod preload after a few miles. If you're getting increased valvetrain noise after a few miles, you've probably got a pushrod that has come out of adjustment slightly. You also might need to play around with the pushrod adjustment to find the sweet spot for your particular combination. SE251 cams aren't particularly fussy or noisy, you should be good to go.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2015 | 01:08 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Mike
It's common practice to check and reset the pushrod preload after a few miles. If you're getting increased valvetrain noise after a few miles, you've probably got a pushrod that has come out of adjustment slightly. You also might need to play around with the pushrod adjustment to find the sweet spot for your particular combination. SE251 cams aren't particularly fussy or noisy, you should be good to go.
What is the procedure for re-adjusting? I wouldn't want to much preload on them, so if I back them off, do I wait a period of time for the lifters to pump up again (if they do), and then do the zero lash plus 2.5 turns (SE push rods)?

or

Do I just pop the tubes and adjust them to zero lash and reinstall tubes?

Thank you for your input!!!
 
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Old Apr 21, 2015 | 01:47 PM
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You can set your preload with the lifters dry, there is an internal spring that pushes the lifter piston to the top of the stroke you have already run the motor, so the lifter bores and lifter body are already lubricated. Just set the cylinder at tdc, collapse the pushrod to zero lash, and then set your preload. If there is enough resistance that you can't spin the pushrods with your fingers, take a break and let the lifters bleed down before commencing. I'm not at my shop right now, but will be later today if you want to talk about the process, just shoot me a pm
 
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Old Apr 21, 2015 | 01:54 PM
  #20  
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I'm answering on a tablet and a sketchy WiFi, not ideal. Your lifters will still have oil inside the lifter body. It's good practice to fill your lifters on initial install, but you don't need to insure they're completely pumped up when you check and reset your preload. I will be back in my shop later this afternoon if you have questions, shoot me a pm
 
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