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Old Feb 23, 2015 | 07:04 AM
  #11  
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I've changed bars twice on my ABS equipped '08. When it was a Street Glide and when I converted it to a Road Glide. As stated, don't cycle the ignition switch until you're completely done bleeding the brakes. I bought SpeedBleeders for all three calipers. The SpeedBleeders make doing the job by yourself much easier.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2015 | 10:53 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by The Q
I've changed bars twice on my ABS equipped '08. When it was a Street Glide and when I converted it to a Road Glide. As stated, don't cycle the ignition switch until you're completely done bleeding the brakes. I bought SpeedBleeders for all three calipers. The SpeedBleeders make doing the job by yourself much easier.
Thanks man. Ill look into them
 
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Old Feb 23, 2015 | 02:17 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by HDsportster99
If i remove the upper cable, the fluid that is in the line, how do i prevent that from going everywhere?
& because i have dual brakes how would i reverse bleed them? Through both sides?
Leave the cap on the master cylinder. Detach the upper brake cable where it attaches by the ABS module. A few drops will come out so have a rag in hand. Place the end over something drain the fluid into. Remove the lid from the master cylinder, which will let the rest of the fluid drain out. Once drained, detach from the master cylinder and replace with new cable.

From what I understand, even though there are two cables on the lower set up, you only need to push fluid through one side (if you use the reverse bleed method). Because you have only replaced the upper cable, there will still be fluid in the lower set up, so unless you really need to flush all that there should be no issue.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2015 | 02:55 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Murderface
Leave the cap on the master cylinder. Detach the upper brake cable where it attaches by the ABS module. A few drops will come out so have a rag in hand. Place the end over something drain the fluid into. Remove the lid from the master cylinder, which will let the rest of the fluid drain out. Once drained, detach from the master cylinder and replace with new cable. From what I understand, even though there are two cables on the lower set up, you only need to push fluid through one side (if you use the reverse bleed method). Because you have only replaced the upper cable, there will still be fluid in the lower set up, so unless you really need to flush all that there should be no issue.
Awesone. This was real helpful. Now i understand
 
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Old Feb 23, 2015 | 05:35 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by HDsportster99
Awesone. This was real helpful. Now i understand
I had a lot of concerns too, but thats what the forum is for man. Good luck to you. Hope it all works well.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2015 | 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Murderface
I had a lot of concerns too, but thats what the forum is for man. Good luck to you. Hope it all works well.
Appreciate it brother. Ill keep yall informed
 
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Old Feb 25, 2015 | 04:54 PM
  #17  
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When i bought my RKC i was told i have ABS, it was cool wasnt a big deal. During the tear down, and bleeding brakes. SURPRISE i dont have abs lol. Jesus
 
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Old Feb 25, 2015 | 05:11 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by HDsportster99
When i bought my RKC i was told i have ABS, it was cool wasnt a big deal. During the tear down, and bleeding brakes. SURPRISE i dont have abs lol. Jesus
A look for the wire going down to the wheel speed sensor on the left fork will answer it as well as the little ABS light that blinks at you every time you start the bike.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2015 | 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by FinalShot
A look for the wire going down to the wheel speed sensor on the left fork will answer it as well as the little ABS light that blinks at you every time you start the bike.
not there. dont mind
 
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Old Feb 25, 2015 | 06:44 PM
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The one thing im upset about is the extra money i spent for the wire from the brake tee to the abs sensor.
Other than that, it dont effect me.
 
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