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Vapor lock?

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Old Apr 20, 2015 | 09:17 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by teleman001
Battery checked out ok. I have a theory that it's the lower grade gas I've been running. I would normally run the mid grade but the last couple times I filled up with the recommended premium. No problems since. Lower grade gas will more easily combust under extreme pressure and heat which is why you get "spark knock" or "pinging" so this must be it. That's the only answer I can come up with. Thanks for all the input!
I think you are stumbling around in the dark now. Save yourself some time and grief and get the bike into a qualified Harley shop or independent and let them tell you what is actually wrong by troubleshooting things out.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2015 | 09:58 AM
  #32  
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No compensator? I think you are confusing the primary drive compensator sprocket with the Isolated Drive System (IDS) compensator at the rear wheel .
 
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Old May 18, 2015 | 01:24 PM
  #33  
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I'm having the exact same problem with my bike. Happened twice in the last 3 days, both times I started it up after riding it for a bit and then shutting it down for about 15 minutes. 09 Street Glide, Rhinehart slips ons and that's it. I've had the compensator replaced and the battery seems good. Starts right up when it's cold, but doesn't want to start when hot.


Let me know if you find anything with yours, I'm going to try to figure out what is going on with mine, it's a new problem this year.
 
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Old May 18, 2015 | 03:29 PM
  #34  
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I have not seen a late model Harley vapor lock since Shep was a pup. The new fuel pumps put a lot of pressure in there. If you are having problems with the engine turning over when it is hot, I would suspect you have a weak battery. When you turn the engine off on a hot engine it comes to rest on the compression stroke. At this point it actually builds up pressure in the combustion chamber since there is no cool air going over the jugs to cool it off. If your battery does not have enough "oomph" to overcome the inherent pressure in the compression stroke it won't spin it until it cools off and the pressure drops. I think I would suspect a weak battery before anything else.
At 80 degrees ambient temperature anything below 12.6 volts is not 100%. 12.2 volts is actually at a 50% charge. It goes down real fast.
 
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Old May 19, 2015 | 06:23 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Retrop
I have not seen a late model Harley vapor lock since Shep was a pup. The new fuel pumps put a lot of pressure in there. If you are having problems with the engine turning over when it is hot, I would suspect you have a weak battery. When you turn the engine off on a hot engine it comes to rest on the compression stroke. At this point it actually builds up pressure in the combustion chamber since there is no cool air going over the jugs to cool it off. If your battery does not have enough "oomph" to overcome the inherent pressure in the compression stroke it won't spin it until it cools off and the pressure drops. I think I would suspect a weak battery before anything else.
At 80 degrees ambient temperature anything below 12.6 volts is not 100%. 12.2 volts is actually at a 50% charge. It goes down real fast.
Good info but I had the battery tested. It was loaded heavy several times and checked out fine. It has only happened once since I started using only premium fuel but not waiting to hit the starter till the fuel pump fully pressurizes does seem to cure the problem. Strange how this just started happening last year.......
 
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Old May 19, 2015 | 06:52 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by teleman001
2009 SG 30, 600 mi. Since the end of riding season last year the engine kind of locks up if you try to start it when its hot. Eventually it does fire up and seems to run fine and I doubt the starter is bad. I am suspecting a leaky fuel injector is causing the thing to vapor lock when hot. Never happens when cold. Like it won't turn over, ya know? Anybody else ever had this happen? Is it a known issue? The dealer (as usual) doesn't have a clue.
Thanks!
I had a similar issue and it turned out to be the quick disconnect fuel fitting. Next time it's hot and won't start, push up on the fitting and crank it. If it starts, it's the tank side of the coupler.
 
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Old May 19, 2015 | 11:20 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by BoonDock_Saint
I had a similar issue and it turned out to be the quick disconnect fuel fitting. Next time it's hot and won't start, push up on the fitting and crank it. If it starts, it's the tank side of the coupler.
This really isn't what he is describing at all.

That quick disconnect fitting can keep your bike from starting, but it won't have any effect on the engine cranking over.

What the OP is describing is when hot, his bike won't crank over very easy.
Just like when you have a low battery, but he says his battery is good.

You can completely disconnect your fuel fitting, and the bike will still crank over (starter will spin the engine). It just won't start.
 
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Old May 19, 2015 | 11:07 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by bmes1982
I'm having the exact same problem with my bike. Happened twice in the last 3 days, both times I started it up after riding it for a bit and then shutting it down for about 15 minutes. 09 Street Glide, Rhinehart slips ons and that's it. I've had the compensator replaced and the battery seems good. Starts right up when it's cold, but doesn't want to start when hot.


Let me know if you find anything with yours, I'm going to try to figure out what is going on with mine, it's a new problem this year.
===========

The most likely reasons your HD will start better cold (not 30 deg ,meaning 55-60+ deg out) then hot is when hot there is more resistance in electrical items like starter/battery cables,battery so if any 1 or 2 of those items are not at or close to 100% of their operating efficiency when new thats when a hot lrg air cooled v-twin will have an issue spining over when heat soaked like for example stopping for fuel & trying to refire 5-8 mins later when everything heat soaks to bit higher temp 5 mins later when you try to fire it up .

So you can IN FACT have a battery tests within allowed spec that can still be at the root of a hot start issue,same goes for the starter that could also pass test spec of amp & voltage draw when tested but still be part of the issue if the battery & starter just happen to just make spec when tested but are operating at 80-85% of their full operating power/efficiency which was enough to pass spec but since they are both collectively down a bit on output is just enough to collectively together cause a hot start issue.

Been there done that many times over the past 4+ decades wrenching bikes and 60's to very early 70's classic muscle cars.

Scott
 
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Old May 21, 2015 | 12:46 PM
  #39  
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As stated above engines stop on the compression stroke. With my old roadking when it did that I learned a trick. Bump starter button . That makes it bounce back down lessening compression and then hit it again and it can overcome the compression with a little inertia. As stated above as well, with a good battery and starter short of it being seized it should at least turn over?
 
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Old May 21, 2015 | 04:34 PM
  #40  
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I had a girlfriend that used to "Vapor Lock" and there was nothing wrong with her starter. Man! I miss her!
 
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