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I just did my front brakes. Used my EZ-Up stand but turned the front wheel when needed to help with access and to keep the master cylinder level. I wrapped towels/plastic around the bike with painters tape to be extra cautious with the brake fluid as I did have the cover off as the manual states.
No need to remove the cap.it is a closed system. When you push pucks back in, you just push brake fluid back reservoir. Replace pads and pump the brakes a few times to seat them. Remember it will take a few miles to bed them in.
Thanks for the info. So where and what pads are you using as a replacement?
I've tried several different brands of pads over the years and like EBC the best. I get the organic pads. The stock Harley pads are very hard and really harsh on your rotors. Definitely not what you want to run if you have expensive custom rotors. The organic pads wear a little faster but don't eat up your rotors. And, the braking power is the same as non-organic. I've also found that the EBC organics don't drag as much on the rotors when off the brakes. This really helps if case you have a slightly warped rotor.
Gentlemen ... many/all are assuming that the master cylinder brake fluid has never been "topped off" at any time during service. While that is a possibility the probability of damage to painted surfaces in the event that it has been topped off by fluid being pushed back into the master and consequently oozing/squirting out onto a/any painted surface is highly probable. While it's true that if you catch it immediately there will be little to no damage, what if you don't get it all or even worse didn't notice it all and let it sit on a painted surface. This would be a great time to clean/purge and refill the system by first removing fluid from the master before the work is initiated and then flushing and bleeding the system. Also remember that brake fluid is hygroscopic ( look it up if you have to ) http://www.yourdictionary.com/hygroscopic
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