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Changing head pipes

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Old Aug 12, 2015 | 12:27 PM
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Default Changing head pipes

I have seen several threads about guys having head pipe bolts break while trying to remove them. I know exhaust bolts can be a pain on anything. Any tricks to it that may eliminate a problem? Is it best to do it cold or warm the bike up or any other things that may make it easier? Thanks.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2015 | 12:39 PM
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cold - use aerokroil penetrating oil - and put studs in when you have the bolts out...


ps your 2010 should already have studs - nuts come off pretty easily - torque to 9-10 ft lbs when you reinstall...
 
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Old Aug 12, 2015 | 01:58 PM
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Does the '08 have the stud & nut setup as well?
 
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Old Aug 12, 2015 | 03:05 PM
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yes same for '08s. The part has a -83 number so my guess is they have been studs since then.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2015 | 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe12RK
yes same for '08s. The part has a -83 number so my guess is they have been studs since then.
Thanks. Getting ready to install V&H Dresser Duals on my '08 tomorrow.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2015 | 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by mjonesjr84
Thanks. Getting ready to install V&H Dresser Duals on my '08 tomorrow.
I'm having a bear of a time getting the front cylinder to seal with Dresser Duals on my 12 RG Ultra. I have tried everything I know to do, even double gasketed last night. It was actually worse than ever. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong, or if the bend on the pipes are just off. Not sure at this point. I am going to try again tonight or tomorrow night if I find the time. I did go with aftermarket flanges and retainers. I'm wondering if the thicker flanges are causing the issue. Just can't get the pipe to sit in there snug and square. It's always off enough to cause issues.

Let us know how you make out.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2015 | 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by harkon
I'm having a bear of a time getting the front cylinder to seal with Dresser Duals on my 12 RG Ultra. I have tried everything I know to do, even double gasketed last night. It was actually worse than ever. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong, or if the bend on the pipes are just off. Not sure at this point. I am going to try again tonight or tomorrow night if I find the time. I did go with aftermarket flanges and retainers. I'm wondering if the thicker flanges are causing the issue. Just can't get the pipe to sit in there snug and square. It's always off enough to cause issues.

Let us know how you make out.
Will do. I'm going to reuse the OEM flanges and retainers. That might be your issue. Have you tried the OEM flanges and retainers?
 
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Old Aug 12, 2015 | 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by mjonesjr84
Will do. I'm going to reuse the OEM flanges and retainers. That might be your issue. Have you tried the OEM flanges and retainers?
Either tonight or tomorrow night as time allows. I'll take the flange right off and put it on the bike without the pipe, see if there's any interference. I still have the stock setup sitting there so I may just change it anyway, just to eliminate it as a possibility.

I've changed the head pipes on several bikes, this is my first Harley, and it seemingly defies logic as to why it will not seat properly. Really weird. Problem is exacerbated by the problem being the front cylinder. LORD JESUS they made that area some difficult to get tools into. Getting a torque wrench onto the inboard nut is an exercise in patience.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2015 | 03:46 PM
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The front cylinder was hard to get too? I've read several times that V&H doesn't recommend torquing the Dresser Duals down, but tightening them and checking them every so often.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2015 | 05:01 PM
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Torque spec is only 120 inch lbs... 10 ft. lbs.

That is a 1/4 drive ratchet and snug with one hand... NOT tight.
 
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