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Old Sep 13, 2015 | 06:33 AM
  #41  
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Good grief! I fractured three vertebrae when young, fortunately not too seriously. Hope Ray makes a decent enough recovery for all other activities.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2015 | 08:31 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Imold
I've watched bike/car track races on tv, car always won on the tracks that were nothing but twisties - and those were sport bikes, not Harleys. I recently read an article that said the top end sport bikes with electronic stability control (I have no idea how that works on a bike) can finally compete with equivalent cars. If you're following a Honda Civic and come up to a tight curve, and he's got the ***** for it, you'll be dragging metal on a Harley long before you could keep up. If you're talking about sport bikes, I wasn't.
Can't speak to racing on a track or watching a TV show about riding, but in the real world of mountain riding with almost 200,000 miles in the last 20 years, I can definitely say that I have absolutely no issues with keeping up with cars in the twisties. The only issue is being slowed down by them.

Last year for our HOG fall color run we shared the road with a car club that included Porches, Pantaras and a couple of Farraris. The only time they got ahead of us was on the straight aways. Maybe they weren't trying, but neither were we.

In the real world, which is what the OP was inquiring about, the bikes are always waiting on cars in the curves. You might want to address that issue instead of suggesting that cars could go faster if they wanted to.

Bill
 
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Old Sep 13, 2015 | 10:38 AM
  #43  
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Old Sep 13, 2015 | 10:54 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by billnourse
.....
In the real world, which is what the OP was inquiring about, the bikes are always waiting on cars in the curves. You might want to address that issue instead of suggesting that cars could go faster if they wanted to.
Bill
That I agree with, and even said that's been my experience, too. But just to say cars are slower, suggesting they can't out corner a Harley, I can't agree with, and sorry if that wasn't what you meant and I took it wrong. It does take a lot of the fun out of it getting an over loaded truck or trailer rig, or a timid driver, in front of you where you can't pass. I took some (stupid, in old age retrospect) chances passing cars on mountain roads in my youth; now I just frown and bear it. Hope the young fellows taking chances today live long enough to realize that isn't wimping out, but good sense.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2015 | 11:41 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by grbrown
Good grief! I fractured three vertebrae when young, fortunately not too seriously. Hope Ray makes a decent enough recovery for all other activities.
Well Ray is fine but his brother Carl is the one messed up...Carl has already said he was quitting motorcycles...
 
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Old Sep 13, 2015 | 01:55 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by grbrown
I agree, having ridden the Alps and some other hairpin climbs over the years. I have an older 5-speed bike and the one reason I can see for changing to a 6-speed would be to lower overall gearing a little, to give a better first gear for those very situations, climbing steep hills/mountains 2-up and fully loaded.
Unless you shop carefully for a replacement tranny for your bike, you won't gain a lower first gear, but a higher final gear. The gain in a factory six speed is in a lower rpm in sixth gear, not a higher rpm in first. The Screaming Eagle six speed for a 1990 bike is part number 33101-03A, and gives you a overdrive of .89:1, and mimics the gear ratios in the first five gears (as per description in the Screaming Eagle parts catalog).

Moving up to a newer bike with a factory sixth speed will work against you.

Example: My '06 is the last year of the five speed TC88's. The first gear ratio is 10.110. Fifth (final) gear ratio is 3.350.

A 2007 TC96 has a first gear ratio of 9.312, and a sixth (final) gear ratio of 2.790.

In 2009 (the OP's bike) the ratios were slightly lowered to 9.593 in first and 2.875 in sixth, where they remain, but note that the first gear is still geared higher than the TC88's five speed's first gear.

The newer bikes have steadily gained weight as well, which will work against you in slow speed manuevers.
 

Last edited by MNPGRider; Sep 13, 2015 at 02:36 PM. Reason: correct spelling
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Old Sep 13, 2015 | 03:42 PM
  #47  
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in a uphill hairpin, i would make sure whatever vehicle in front of you clears the turn completely before you start turning. you don't want to stop mid turn.

And riding the friction point might be the correct method, but i personally don't like having the clutch in when i'm making a turn because the bike can fall over if it's not under power.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2015 | 05:14 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by MNPGRider
Unless you shop carefully for a replacement tranny for your bike, you won't gain a lower first gear, but a higher final gear. The gain in a factory six speed is in a lower rpm in sixth gear, not a higher rpm in first. The Screaming Eagle six speed for a 1990 bike is part number 33101-03A, and gives you a overdrive of .89:1, and mimics the gear ratios in the first five gears (as per description in the Screaming Eagle parts catalog).
I've already done the sums, just haven't followed it through yet! Using a Baker DD6 but replacing my stock 24T with a 25T (26T if I can find one), instead of the 27T/28T compensator they supply, achieves what I described - a lower first gear and also a higher top gear. Sorted - just need to splash the cash - except I have a lot of other stuff to do on the bike first!
 
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Old Sep 14, 2015 | 08:19 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by SGMongoose
And riding the friction point might be the correct method, but i personally don't like having the clutch in when i'm making a turn because the bike can fall over if it's not under power.
The point of the friction zone is to allow you to stay under power and still maintain very slow speeds. The clutch is never all the way in, just feathered, the rear brake is applied to hold speed down, and the throttle is applied a bit to keep power to the rear wheel.

This is the method that motor officers use to negotiate parking lots like they do and still maintain control or whip a U-Turn within 2 lanes. Changing transmissions and other methods are not going to work. The bike will only go so slow before it falls over unless there is some power to the rear wheel to keep the gyro effect of the bike going.

Take the time and effort to learn this technique and you will no longer worry about a slow car on mountain road, or making a U-Turn on a 2 lane highway, or having to duck walk through a parking lot. Don't learn it and you will never be comfortable at slow speeds.

Bill
 

Last edited by billnourse; Sep 14, 2015 at 08:28 AM.
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Old Sep 14, 2015 | 01:14 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by grbrown
I've already done the sums, just haven't followed it through yet! Using a Baker DD6 but replacing my stock 24T with a 25T (26T if I can find one), instead of the 27T/28T compensator they supply, achieves what I described - a lower first gear and also a higher top gear. Sorted - just need to splash the cash - except I have a lot of other stuff to do on the bike first!
I was guessing when I wrote that, but have now found my spreadsheet where I did my workings! Using Baker's 27T comp plus a 30T trans pulley gives the results I was looking for, a lower first gear with a slightly higher top. Should give that extra capability when climbing steep hairpins, while still providing some relief on the autobahns, chasing Porsches!
 
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