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Some people don't have time to spend on doing their bars, when riding is "when you can go". And I don't know about all of you out there that say it's a snap to do, because it's not. I did my '13 RKC with Cuby's and it still takes alot time and a PITA.
Some people don't have time to spend on doing their bars, when riding is "when you can go". And I don't know about all of you out there that say it's a snap to do, because it's not. I did my '13 RKC with Cuby's and it still takes alot time and a PITA.
Not sure what you are defining as time, but mine was done and back to the bike in an evening...after working a normal day and went to bed at a normal time.
As far as it being a snap to do, if you have any mechanical ability and logical thinking it should be a breeze....
not trying to be mean but it is not rocket science....
Doing bars on your 15 is way easier than doing bars on a pre 13 road glide. You can do up to 13-14" bars with stock hoses and wiring. All the wiring is under the gauge cluster so you don't even have to pull the fairing. Look up factory47 on YouTube they have a great vid to walk you through. It really isn't a hard job. I've done two sets on my 15 so far and its a breeze compared to a pre 13.
Doing bars on your 15 is way easier than doing bars on a pre 13 road glide. You can do up to 13-14" bars with stock hoses and wiring. All the wiring is under the gauge cluster so you don't even have to pull the fairing. Look up factory47 on YouTube they have a great vid to walk you through. It really isn't a hard job. I've done two sets on my 15 so far and its a breeze compared to a pre 13.
thanks for sharing that info. I looked up the video and it really is easy to do. Its actually easier than any bars I have put on any bike I have owned. It took me the good part of a day to put my apes on my old metric. The only concern I would have is stripping off the insulation on the wires feeding it back through the bars. I sure as hell would not want to deal with a short inside the bars.
thanks for sharing that info. I looked up the video and it really is easy to do. Its actually easier than any bars I have put on any bike I have owned. It took me the good part of a day to put my apes on my old metric. The only concern I would have is stripping off the insulation on the wires feeding it back through the bars. I sure as hell would not want to deal with a short inside the bars.
Just solder the connections and use heat shrink...I use the heavy weather style heat shrink....as long as you solder well...you should be perfectly fine...
take your time...biggest advice....take your time and double check your work...
Just solder the connections and use heat shrink...I use the heavy weather style heat shrink....as long as you solder well...you should be perfectly fine...
take your time...biggest advice....take your time and double check your work...
The video I saw didn't require any soldering. They say you can keep the stock cables and wires up to 14" apes, which I can live with. I figure 14" apes and a tall boy seat will do the trick for me. I was kind of surprised how inexpensive that seat is from the dealer.
The video I saw didn't require any soldering. They say you can keep the stock cables and wires up to 14" apes, which I can live with. I figure 14" apes and a tall boy seat will do the trick for me. I was kind of surprised how inexpensive that seat is from the dealer.
Sorry, when I saw you talking about short in the bars I read that you were ...nevermind...my eyes must be messing with me today...heh...
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