CAT removal project complete.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 497
Likes: 11
From: Tucson
CAT removal project complete. Pictures included.
Just wanted to offer encouragement for others who are thinking about cutting out the CAT. The entire project is complete and all went smooth. On a difficulty level of 1 thru 10, 10 being the most difficult, I would rate this a 2.
My bike is a 2014 Street Glide (Rushmore)
Cost: Next door neighbor did the welding for $40. and an extra packet of Dremel cutting blades was about $15 for a total of $55.
I never removed an exhaust before nor its chrome covers, but this was self-explanatory and was able to do this with no manual. I did have to remove the right side floorboard so the chrome cover could be removed without scratching. Removing the 2 oxygen sensors was easy, but I did not disconnect the wires from the bike. I just twisted them out of the exhaust pipe and marked one. Torque specs where sent to me via email from another very gracious forum member who also took pictures of the manual pages that pertained to the project in the event that were needed. You know who you are…. Thank you.
Cutting out the rectangular window was ‘slightly’ difficult because I was limited to a Dremel tool. The Dremel was an older and less powerful version, but it worked. I went thru 5 metal cutting Dremel blades if anyone is curious. After the window was cut out, I gently pried it off and away from the CAT material. The most difficult part of the project was removing this material. It appeared to be aluminum honey combed. I drilled multiple holes down into it to break it up and used various tools such as pliers, big screw driver, and metal paint scrapers to remove the material. To remove the remnants off the internal walls of the exhaust, I used a wire brush drill bit attachment which also seemed to polish it up a bit.
Putting the exhaust back together was as simple as taking her off with the exception of torqueing the 4 exhaust bolts going into the heads. The very front bolt on my year and model bike cannot be torqued due to the proximity of the frame. I just used an open ended wrench and guestimated. Also aligning the chrome covers was a slight challenge, but it was not bad. I just aligned them to cover up the previous overlay scratches. Before threading back in the oxygen sensors, I counter twisted the sensor/wire then proceeded to thread them back into the exhaust. Bolted myslip-on mufflers back on and took her for a test drive. No problems.
This morning I had some time to spend riding the bike at various speeds. The back roads were empty and I was able to pay close attention to the performance and sound of the bike.
Performance: was identical to before the CAT removal.
Fuel consumption: I could not tell any difference as far as gas mileage/usage and would be happy to hear other’s experience with fuel consumption.
Heat: I did the project to reduce right side heat. Funny, now that I removed the CAT, the weather has cooled significantly and will have to get back with you on further analysis. I did not notice any heat this morning off the bike.
Sound: First let me state that I am an audiophile by hobby. I’ve been into very high end home audio and theater my entire life. I can pickout nuances between different amplifiers, stereos and speaker components. Let’s just say I have a highly trained ear. With the bike sitting and idling, the volume and sound profile was almost identical. While running the bike around at lower speeds I noticed bit more lower frequency tones (low frequency = bass) but also in addition was a bit more metallic crackle that is not noticeable during idle. This could be attributed by my V&H oval slip-ons. At higher speeds, when I gun the bike, the sound profile is about 10 percent louder than before the CAT job. 10% is not much louder, but notable.
Concerns: My only concern is that the wire cover insulation to one of the oxygen sensors appears to have been torn. I don't recall if I did this during the project or if the wire covering was already torn. Not sure is this will be a problem. If I have to replace the entire oxygen sensor in the future, I don't suspect it will be too expensive or difficult.
If any oddities arise, I will post them.
Keep the shiny side up
My bike is a 2014 Street Glide (Rushmore)
Cost: Next door neighbor did the welding for $40. and an extra packet of Dremel cutting blades was about $15 for a total of $55.
I never removed an exhaust before nor its chrome covers, but this was self-explanatory and was able to do this with no manual. I did have to remove the right side floorboard so the chrome cover could be removed without scratching. Removing the 2 oxygen sensors was easy, but I did not disconnect the wires from the bike. I just twisted them out of the exhaust pipe and marked one. Torque specs where sent to me via email from another very gracious forum member who also took pictures of the manual pages that pertained to the project in the event that were needed. You know who you are…. Thank you.
Cutting out the rectangular window was ‘slightly’ difficult because I was limited to a Dremel tool. The Dremel was an older and less powerful version, but it worked. I went thru 5 metal cutting Dremel blades if anyone is curious. After the window was cut out, I gently pried it off and away from the CAT material. The most difficult part of the project was removing this material. It appeared to be aluminum honey combed. I drilled multiple holes down into it to break it up and used various tools such as pliers, big screw driver, and metal paint scrapers to remove the material. To remove the remnants off the internal walls of the exhaust, I used a wire brush drill bit attachment which also seemed to polish it up a bit.
Putting the exhaust back together was as simple as taking her off with the exception of torqueing the 4 exhaust bolts going into the heads. The very front bolt on my year and model bike cannot be torqued due to the proximity of the frame. I just used an open ended wrench and guestimated. Also aligning the chrome covers was a slight challenge, but it was not bad. I just aligned them to cover up the previous overlay scratches. Before threading back in the oxygen sensors, I counter twisted the sensor/wire then proceeded to thread them back into the exhaust. Bolted myslip-on mufflers back on and took her for a test drive. No problems.
This morning I had some time to spend riding the bike at various speeds. The back roads were empty and I was able to pay close attention to the performance and sound of the bike.
Performance: was identical to before the CAT removal.
Fuel consumption: I could not tell any difference as far as gas mileage/usage and would be happy to hear other’s experience with fuel consumption.
Heat: I did the project to reduce right side heat. Funny, now that I removed the CAT, the weather has cooled significantly and will have to get back with you on further analysis. I did not notice any heat this morning off the bike.
Sound: First let me state that I am an audiophile by hobby. I’ve been into very high end home audio and theater my entire life. I can pickout nuances between different amplifiers, stereos and speaker components. Let’s just say I have a highly trained ear. With the bike sitting and idling, the volume and sound profile was almost identical. While running the bike around at lower speeds I noticed bit more lower frequency tones (low frequency = bass) but also in addition was a bit more metallic crackle that is not noticeable during idle. This could be attributed by my V&H oval slip-ons. At higher speeds, when I gun the bike, the sound profile is about 10 percent louder than before the CAT job. 10% is not much louder, but notable.
Concerns: My only concern is that the wire cover insulation to one of the oxygen sensors appears to have been torn. I don't recall if I did this during the project or if the wire covering was already torn. Not sure is this will be a problem. If I have to replace the entire oxygen sensor in the future, I don't suspect it will be too expensive or difficult.
If any oddities arise, I will post them.
Keep the shiny side up
Last edited by BKSinAZ; Oct 11, 2015 at 12:56 PM.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
Likes: 402
From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
nice work.
( couldn;t see big pics though...website running slow I guess)
audio-wise...I have a Pal with the V&H power duals & MO's. to me, they project a tinny rattle straight out the back ( line of sight) high freq's are very directional
If there is room, I'll stagger to get away from the noise...if not I drop way back.
or I lead.
Mike
( couldn;t see big pics though...website running slow I guess)
audio-wise...I have a Pal with the V&H power duals & MO's. to me, they project a tinny rattle straight out the back ( line of sight) high freq's are very directional
If there is room, I'll stagger to get away from the noise...if not I drop way back.
or I lead.
Mike
Last edited by mkguitar; Oct 11, 2015 at 11:38 AM.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 497
Likes: 11
From: Tucson
Yea... hard to articulate the metallic sound. We might be describing the same thing, but I would not classify it as a "rattle", but is definitely a tinny metallic crackle. Not noticeable during Idle.
It's not a bad thing and I am sure I had it before the project. But defiantly more pronounced now. Mixed with the increase of lower tones, it's not a bad thing.
It's not a bad thing and I am sure I had it before the project. But defiantly more pronounced now. Mixed with the increase of lower tones, it's not a bad thing.
Last edited by BKSinAZ; Oct 11, 2015 at 12:17 PM.
Tourer
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 431
Likes: 39
From: Marysville, Ohio
Did the same to mine, it did help with the heat. If you want to get the most from your project contact Fuel Moto and get a tuner. My bike runs considerably cooler after a proper tuning. Plus a bit more power never hurts. All in all I had less that $500 in pipes, and tuner.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 497
Likes: 11
From: Tucson
What bike? What slip ons? Do you have a fuel management system like a Power Vision?
Did it change the sound profile when riding? How? Deeper or tintier?
Did it change the sound profile when riding? How? Deeper or tintier?
Last edited by BKSinAZ; Oct 11, 2015 at 02:21 PM.
Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 567
Likes: 1
From: Sacramento
Bike in my sig pic with V&H Monster Ovals it think it may be a tad louder but no deeper then it was the ovals are deep normally.
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I have a 2014 FLHTK with V&H Twin Slash Rounds. I cut the cat out of my headers and to me the sound was too harsh and loud at cruising speeds. I put the quiet baffles in my mufflers and now it has a good deep rumble, not quiet but not loud either. It will bark when you get on it but it's not so loud that riding all day will give you a headache.