Stainless engine bolts
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 3,784
Likes: 100
From: Pasadena TX
Stainless engine bolts
I'm thinking of replacing my exposed engine fasteners with stainless in the coming winter season. After searching around, this looks like a likely choice: https://alloyboltz.com/catalog/produ...bjbstdosubf935 I have a couple of questions I hope someone with actual hands on use can answer. The kit is offered in a 12 point, Grade 8 variety as well. Is there some advantage to a 12 point head vs allen head? Is Grade 8 really needed in place of non Grade 8 fasteners? Also, use of never seize is recommended but how does that effect torque values, or does it matter?
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,999
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From: Bay Area
I have them on my bike, for the last 3 really. Most of the grade 8 they sell are ARP brand, theyre American made. You will never have an issue stripping out a torx or allen again, but you will need to carry 12 point sockets in your tool kit.
I have a Matco 1/4" set as well as universals that dont take up much room. I changed every exposed bolt on the bike except for the handlebar switches in polished SS.
The instructions say to use never seeze or blue locktite on installation, as far as the coefficient of friction you are referring to, I dont see it as an issue because all the OEM bolts came with lock patch on installation, then that is factored in.
It can get expensive, but it sure looks classy and clean. I flipped a RK a couple years ago and put a set of them on the cases, the buyer told be thats what sold him on the bike, it was a clean look.
The best part is they wont rust or oxidize.
I have a Matco 1/4" set as well as universals that dont take up much room. I changed every exposed bolt on the bike except for the handlebar switches in polished SS.
The instructions say to use never seeze or blue locktite on installation, as far as the coefficient of friction you are referring to, I dont see it as an issue because all the OEM bolts came with lock patch on installation, then that is factored in.
It can get expensive, but it sure looks classy and clean. I flipped a RK a couple years ago and put a set of them on the cases, the buyer told be thats what sold him on the bike, it was a clean look.
The best part is they wont rust or oxidize.
Thread Starter
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 3,784
Likes: 100
From: Pasadena TX
Yeah, that's the appeal. So you didn't do anything differently torque wise? And did you personally use loctite or never seize?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: South Florida
Your not ****,your just doing the job correctly in my opinion.
Road Master
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,170
Likes: 14
From: washington dc
Bagman hit the nail on the head "it can get expensive, but it sure looks classy and clean."
I did this to my 09 SG, mostly using fasteners from Diamond Engineering, http://www.depss.com/
I studied the anti-seize v. thread locker question and ended up using Loctite 243, which is blue (medium) and designed for mismatched metals and, in particular, for use with stainless steel. I suggest comparing the length of the replacement bolt to the old fastener, piece by piece, and seriously consider not using anything that's not the same. I would use a longer fastener only after being very sure there's enough depth. Also, clean out the threaded holes, as bagman said. I used q-tips: running them in over and over until I was sure there was nothing in there. I've heard terrible stories about folks knocking out the backside of aluminum housings because the fastener was too long or the hole was full of junk.
You'll be happy you did this.
I did this to my 09 SG, mostly using fasteners from Diamond Engineering, http://www.depss.com/
I studied the anti-seize v. thread locker question and ended up using Loctite 243, which is blue (medium) and designed for mismatched metals and, in particular, for use with stainless steel. I suggest comparing the length of the replacement bolt to the old fastener, piece by piece, and seriously consider not using anything that's not the same. I would use a longer fastener only after being very sure there's enough depth. Also, clean out the threaded holes, as bagman said. I used q-tips: running them in over and over until I was sure there was nothing in there. I've heard terrible stories about folks knocking out the backside of aluminum housings because the fastener was too long or the hole was full of junk.
You'll be happy you did this.
Thread Starter
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 3,784
Likes: 100
From: Pasadena TX
Yeah, I checked Drag Specialties and they carry Diamond Engineering products. I was leaning towards alloyboltz mostly because they're cheaper, and many people have used them with good results.
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Road Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 959
Likes: 5
From: Oswego, IL
I used 6 pt ARP stainless. Love the look. Spent a bunch of money..... Lots more than the $106 the kit your looking at but its worth it to me.
Later I did find a place that sells the ARP bolts individually but I cannot find that web sight again.....
Later I did find a place that sells the ARP bolts individually but I cannot find that web sight again.....
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Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,332
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From: Michigan
I speak from personal experience, don't buy the cheaper of the Alloy Boltz kits unless you never plan to take them out. I use high quality allen bits and still have stripped out the hex on the cheaper kit.