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Old Nov 9, 2015 | 05:33 PM
  #11  
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Update - bike is at the dealer service getting both front rotors replaced. Should I have them replace the pads as well or would the warped rotors not cause any extra wear compared to good rotors?
 
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Old Nov 9, 2015 | 06:25 PM
  #12  
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No need to replace the pads solely because of your rotor warp issue, but if they are substantially worn from normal usage, then yeah, have them changed.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2015 | 10:08 PM
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I have managed to warp the front rotors on all of my work motors, starting with an 08 RK. The beginning of this year I swapped to the Brembo setup on my personal 02 Ultra. Not surprisingly I have already developed the pulse/shudder with these rotors. Never had a problem with the stock 02 rotors and they had 68,000 hard miles. I plan on switching to a full floating rotor in hopes of stopping this issue. I can only suspect that the stock HD/Brembo rotors are more susceptible to warping than the earlier rotors. Still much happier with the stopping ability of the Brembo over the original 02 set up.

Neil
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Old Nov 11, 2015 | 06:47 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Sedonastrider
Oh. I would just move to a high quality rotor but the service advisor said that I'd likely void my brake system warranty. He's a good guy and gives me good insight. In a year when I'm out of warranty, I'll change the rotors out if I'm still having issues.
Use the Harley Floating Brake Rotors. Several styles to choose from.
We had a 2012 limited that warped the front rotors changed to floating rotors and never had the problem again.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2015 | 07:25 AM
  #15  
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I say this and get little attention as it seem either too simple to resolve, check, or maintain and "overlooked."

The floats on a floating rotor are supposed to have free movement. Yet so many people ride with them frozen in one position... WARPED.

A buddy of mine and I coasted down a 7 story parking garage and all I could hear from his front end was (w/ engine off) a cyclic shoop, silent, shoop, silent, shoop, silent, shoop... we free'd them up with PB Blaster and gentle articulation of the float with pressure applied with a screw driver as leverage and it began moving vertically (as intended).

I haven't added many things over time to my pre-ride checklist... but this is on thing I do. Simply point finger and thumb... grab the float and see if the B moves.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2015 | 11:32 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Eunoterpsia
I say this and get little attention as it seem either too simple to resolve, check, or maintain and "overlooked."

The floats on a floating rotor are supposed to have free movement. Yet so many people ride with them frozen in one position... WARPED.

A buddy of mine and I coasted down a 7 story parking garage and all I could hear from his front end was (w/ engine off) a cyclic shoop, silent, shoop, silent, shoop, silent, shoop... we free'd them up with PB Blaster and gentle articulation of the float with pressure applied with a screw driver as leverage and it began moving vertically (as intended).

I haven't added many things over time to my pre-ride checklist... but this is on thing I do. Simply point finger and thumb... grab the float and see if the B moves.
How much should it move? A little or at "all" and just free?
 
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Old Nov 11, 2015 | 12:58 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Eunoterpsia
I say this and get little attention as it seem either too simple to resolve, check, or maintain and "overlooked."

The floats on a floating rotor are supposed to have free movement. Yet so many people ride with them frozen in one position... WARPED.

A buddy of mine and I coasted down a 7 story parking garage and all I could hear from his front end was (w/ engine off) a cyclic shoop, silent, shoop, silent, shoop, silent, shoop... we free'd them up with PB Blaster and gentle articulation of the float with pressure applied with a screw driver as leverage and it began moving vertically (as intended).

I haven't added many things over time to my pre-ride checklist... but this is on thing I do. Simply point finger and thumb... grab the float and see if the B moves.
Noted, you got my attention, thanks fore the good tip . Iv never had an issue but then iv never heard this ether! The B is for Brakes, right?
 
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Old Nov 11, 2015 | 02:30 PM
  #18  
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The floats on my HD discs move vertically - that is in towards the center and outwards away from the center. With little effort... The will click when you move them from stop to stop (metal type sound from easy and debri free movement)

The movement can be measured from stop to stop with 3 millimeters (at least on my stick ruler) but I also wasn't wearing my glasses.

I don't have any lateral movement (side to side) But I do know my buddy was complaining about brake pulsating for a while and it's gone now.

They were pretty much locked in position and I brought over my PB blaster and he is a cautious guy and began thinking that maybe they weren't supposed to be free movement. It took a short while... Maybe 15 mins... Before it started to penetrate through and for movement to be felt.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2015 | 05:01 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Eunoterpsia
I say this and get little attention as it seem either too simple to resolve, check, or maintain and "overlooked."

The floats on a floating rotor are supposed to have free movement. Yet so many people ride with them frozen in one position... WARPED.

A buddy of mine and I coasted down a 7 story parking garage and all I could hear from his front end was (w/ engine off) a cyclic shoop, silent, shoop, silent, shoop, silent, shoop... we free'd them up with PB Blaster and gentle articulation of the float with pressure applied with a screw driver as leverage and it began moving vertically (as intended).

I haven't added many things over time to my pre-ride checklist... but this is on thing I do. Simply point finger and thumb... grab the float and see if the B moves.
First off, I'm not sure if I have floating rotors. The service tech says yes, but looking at mine compared to what Harley sells as floating rotors, I don't think so. At any rate, they are replacing both front rotors and since I still have a little over a year left in warranty, I'll keep having them replaced with factory originals until it's my dime then I'll go to full floating if that will solve the warping problem. BTW, my new rotors have shipped and are expected in their shop today, but Harley shows them as being on back order - could be they're replacing a lot of them.

Thanks for all the answers!
 
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Old Nov 17, 2015 | 06:22 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Neil
I have managed to warp the front rotors on all of my work motors, starting with an 08 RK. The beginning of this year I swapped to the Brembo setup on my personal 02 Ultra. Not surprisingly I have already developed the pulse/shudder with these rotors. Never had a problem with the stock 02 rotors and they had 68,000 hard miles. I plan on switching to a full floating rotor in hopes of stopping this issue. I can only suspect that the stock HD/Brembo rotors are more susceptible to warping than the earlier rotors. Still much happier with the stopping ability of the Brembo over the original 02 set up.

Neil
RDMC
I has a conversation with a guy at a shop about the pulsation on a 2014 FLHX, not mine, after adding Lyndall composite rotors and Lyndall pads. He told me that although the run out on the rotors was super slight, like .002 well within spec, the Brembo compatible master cylinder moves less fluid, builds more pressure so they are waaaaay more susceptible to feeling like a rotor is warped than on the older brake systems that build less pressure. He said he had been selling rotors for a long time and he had never experienced as many complaints about "warped" rotors with the old brake systems and has had 10X more complaints since HD changed to the Brembo system. Maybe he was telling me a bs story, i dont know. My '08 FLHX with OEM Brembos works outstanding along with my Galfer floating rotors and pads, love the combo.
 
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