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Old Oct 29, 2015 | 06:44 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Cliff R
+2


If you don't auto-tune then you are not using one of the very best features of the PV. You'd have been just as well off with a PC-5 and just left the tune up to those who wrote the MAP for you....IMHO.


Auto tune, even with the narrow band 02 sensors can achieve big benefits for the end user. It may take several riding sessions and you can even go in and custom tune specific areas of the MAPS that you save.


I spent quite a bit of time with the PV on my 2012 Ultra Limited, and was able to take the basic MAP Fuel Moto provided as a baseline and improve it down in the lower range. In other words I drove the bike in normal fashion, limiting throttle angle to about 30 percent, and rpms to about 3000 to fine tune the areas where the engine spends most of it's time.


I was fine with the heavy/full throttle portion of their MAP, so stayed out of those areas when tuning. Doing this will fine tune the MAP they provided to your riding style, fuel type/quality, and DA where you live. I ended up improving fuel economy and light throttle operation a bit. When all tuning was complete I was getting mid-40's for fuel economy on the highway, which was WAY up from stock and after gutting the CAT and adding 4" slip ons with a PC-5 tuner.


They provide plenty of wire to run up under the tank and put the mount on the handlebar, but you don't have to leave the tuner in place. I would recommend making several MAPS and storing them, then writing over them, and even a little custom tuning with the quick tune feature. It's something that you have to spend some time with for best results. It may take several tanks of fuel on a tune to see all the benefits, and keeping accurate notes. Best part is that you can always go back to the original tune if it all goes to crap on you.


I found that the best tune for my bike with narrow band 02's was to stay in lower rpm's and low throttle angles, and do several riding sessions on the same saved MAP, then accept the changes each time. Hope this helps some?.....Cliff
Well said and take it to the bank ^ ................ PV auto tune dialed in my Limited based on the FM map provided with it. I can tell you after spending some time on autotune it definitely improved performance and Pumpkin is a whole lot funner to ride!
 
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Old Oct 29, 2015 | 07:29 AM
  #12  
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It's easy to Auto tune and well worth the time.
http://www.dynojet.com/powervision/p....aspx#ytplayer
Watch this video.
Good luck
 
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Old Oct 29, 2015 | 08:13 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by kryingame

2 - In order to use the Power Vision, I know that I have to remove my left bag and cover and then connect the Power Vision to the data port. But, in order to use Auto Tune, I think I have to ride the bike for at least a few sessions of 30 minutes a piece. HOW DO I RIDE THE BIKE WITH THE POWER VISION CONNECTED IF MY BAG AND COVER ARE OFF? This one is driving me crazy.

Thanks guys!
After plugging in the cable you can put side cover and bag back on. No need to go crazy.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2015 | 08:58 AM
  #14  
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Thanks guys. I really appreciate all of the words. In 24 hours from now, I'll have my baby back. I'm sure I'll be starting more threads like this once I start playing with the PV.


Geez, it's been in the shop for way to long. Dang all of the rain that we got in the Carolinas.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2015 | 09:42 AM
  #15  
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I strongly suggest you install the FM base map and run several autotunes. That will adjust the VE's for your specific needs and modifications.

I don't understand why anyone would only tune part of the throttle range. You want to adjust the VE's for the entire throttle range. Make several runs over all operating conditions to get the best possible coverage. Monitor the hits on the screen to see the areas you have covered.

I think you'll find that FM provides a great base map, but it will get even better with some autotune runs.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2015 | 09:48 PM
  #16  
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Great thread. I'll be ordering my Power Vision shortly and this has already answered a few of my questions.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2015 | 10:11 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Cliff R
+2


If you don't auto-tune then you are not using one of the very best features of the PV. You'd have been just as well off with a PC-5 and just left the tune up to those who wrote the MAP for you....IMHO.


Auto tune, even with the narrow band 02 sensors can achieve big benefits for the end user. It may take several riding sessions and you can even go in and custom tune specific areas of the MAPS that you save.


I spent quite a bit of time with the PV on my 2012 Ultra Limited, and was able to take the basic MAP Fuel Moto provided as a baseline and improve it down in the lower range. In other words I drove the bike in normal fashion, limiting throttle angle to about 30 percent, and rpms to about 3000 to fine tune the areas where the engine spends most of it's time.


I was fine with the heavy/full throttle portion of their MAP, so stayed out of those areas when tuning. Doing this will fine tune the MAP they provided to your riding style, fuel type/quality, and DA where you live. I ended up improving fuel economy and light throttle operation a bit. When all tuning was complete I was getting mid-40's for fuel economy on the highway, which was WAY up from stock and after gutting the CAT and adding 4" slip ons with a PC-5 tuner.


They provide plenty of wire to run up under the tank and put the mount on the handlebar, but you don't have to leave the tuner in place. I would recommend making several MAPS and storing them, then writing over them, and even a little custom tuning with the quick tune feature. It's something that you have to spend some time with for best results. It may take several tanks of fuel on a tune to see all the benefits, and keeping accurate notes. Best part is that you can always go back to the original tune if it all goes to crap on you.


I found that the best tune for my bike with narrow band 02's was to stay in lower rpm's and low throttle angles, and do several riding sessions on the same saved MAP, then accept the changes each time. Hope this helps some?.....Cliff
This was basically what I did, except that I ran a single 2 hour session during a Saturday morning cruise to a lunch destination. The first 30 minutes around town, the next hour on the interstate, and the last 30 minutes on a slightly twisty 2 lane highway. Accepted the changes in the restaurant parking lot, and on the way back home got 45mpg. I left it at that until I added a FM header 4 months later, then ran another AT using a new FM custom map. I used the same procedure and I'm back at 44mpg. My goal was to optimize for fuel economy and I think I succeeded. I think the key is not to dwell on auto tuning while you're riding...just "set it and forget it" and enjoy the ride in the rpm ranges you're accustomed to. Ron
 
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Old Oct 29, 2015 | 11:38 PM
  #18  
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I ran the cable out from under the side cover and was able to put the tuner in my saddle bag and close the lid without pinching the cable. Adjusted the tune after each ride till I got it where I liked it and now it sits at home waiting for spring when I will auto tune it again for the weather change.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2015 | 06:33 AM
  #19  
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"I think the key is not to dwell on auto tuning while you're riding...just "set it and forget it" and enjoy the ride in the rpm ranges you're accustomed to. Ron"


Good advice Ron.


"I don't understand why anyone would only tune part of the throttle range."


My tuning method was for the factory narrow band 02's, which target lean A/F ratios better suited for economy and light throttle/light load operation. This is why I stay out of the heavy/full throttle and high rpm ranges when tuning, and left that part of Fuel Moto's base tune alone. They had that part nailed down pretty good, so I only needed to cleanup the "normal" range where the bike spends most of it's time.


I'm also the kind of rider who rides like I've got some sense. These engines weren't designed for big upper mid-range and top end power, the bore is too small, stroke too long, uses pushrods, and heavy internal mass of spinning/reciprocating parts.


To make things even worse my 2012 Ultra Limited 103 had the old emission cams in it, so it was a complete "turd" in the upper mid-range and top end anyhow. That engine pulled just as hard at 3000rpm's as it did at 5000rpms. The power curve on those engines is "weak", and torque curve nearly "flat"......IMHO......Cliff
 
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Old Oct 31, 2015 | 08:11 AM
  #20  
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[QUOTE=Cliff R;14532258

"I don't understand why anyone would only tune part of the throttle range."


[I]My tuning method was for the factory narrow band 02's, which target lean A/F ratios better suited for economy and light throttle/light load operation.[/I] This is why I stay out of the heavy/full throttle and high rpm ranges when tuning, and left that part of Fuel Moto's base tune alone. They had that part nailed down pretty good, so I only needed to cleanup the "normal" range where the bike spends most of it's time.

I understand your intention, but I think you'll find your logic is faulty.
AFR's are set in the base map from Fuel Moto, and at heavy throttle you're usually running open loop (AFR's outside the 14.3-15.2 range). Autotune basic will adjust VE's for the entire range...basically adjusting for your set-up.

Try autotuning for the entire range. you can always go back to the map you have now if you're not satisfied.
 
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