One more, with lots of numbers:

http://ohiomotorcyclelaw.com/recall-...brake-failure/

 

That is very helpful. It seems as thought 08 tour models were guiney pigs from throttles to ecm type issues. I have tried the fluid change-out and cleaning as recommended, but it sounds as though I need to just cut my losses and get another HCU and pray that it doesn't happen again. Thanks

 

Yep. I worry about my brakes every time I ride, even though my SG is a 2015 and supposedly not affected...

Unfortunately HD has designed a system that may unnecessarily add risk to an already risky sport, and their recommended fluid change interval seems like:

1) a bandaid for a flawed design
2) a way for them to shirk responsibility when the system fails (blame the user).
3) a really tacky way to generate service income, since to 100% flush the system, we are FORCED to go to a dealer to connect to their DT-II service tool ($$).

I will be going to the dealer this spring to have a full flush done. Mostly as CYA - and because of fear

 

Its never their fault! I will do the same in regards to full flush. I am sure that HD wont mind servicing my scoot AGAIN...thanks for the info.

 

Brilliant- how do you do this, just suck the fluid out of the reservoirs and replace?

 

He probably should not have called him out, people obviously don't come to a forum for a grammar lesson.....

But I respectfully disagree that content is more important than format. I have passed over many posts because the way they were written. They were very hard to understand. A mistake or two is one thing, but absolute disregard for any grammar or spelling is another thing altogether.

Spend a couple hours on any forum, and it's apparent that the English language is on a downward spiral.

I've made my share of mistakes (you can probably find some in this response), but I try to organize my posts and make them easy to read and understand.

I have read posts, on various forums, that are total gibberish. If someone can't communicate effectively, then I won't spend my time typing an answer I hope they can understand, nor will I take their advice.

Just my 2 cents....


To the OP,

There is a lot of information on the very problem you describe. Some have given you links to start your education about this issue. Most agree it is caused by a valve in the ABS unit sticking/freezing. That will essentially plug the brake line at the ABS module. There are various opinions as to whether it's Harley's fault for a bad design, or operator error for failing to maintain the brake system.

My '03 Harley uses DOT 5 brake fluid (silicone based). It will not absorb water and is probably less critical to keep the fluid fresh. My '12 Harley has ABS with DOT 4 brake fluid (glycol based) and I flush it every two years. I also flush the brake system on a car & a truck, with ABS, every two years.

Prior to ABS, Harley used DOT 5 for years. When Harley went to ABS, they had to switch back to a DOT 4 (compatible with DOT 3, & DOT 5.1) which is glycol based. The DOT 5 does not play well with ABS. The DOT 4 does absorb water.

Additionally, a motorcycle has a much smaller volume of fluid in its brake system compared to a car. This suggests maintaining the brake fluid in your motorcycle becomes more important.

Good luck with your repair...

 

Hattitude- I see that you fixed your spelling mistake from "to" to "two" hahahahahahahahahahahaha!

 

You really should get a service manual for your bike, or take your bike to a service shop to have it done. Brakes are one of those things that if you mess it up, you'll end up taking it to the shop anyway.

That said, bleeding the brakes is relatively easy. You have basically 4 options.

1) get some appropriate sized plastic tubing (1/8"ID maybe 3/16" I'm not sure but it should fit snugly over the bleeder valve) and slip it over the bleeder valve. Open the bleeder and have someone pull the brake lever gently. When the lever is close to bottomed out, close the bleeder valve, and release the lever. Continue to do this until the reservoir is almost empty, but do not ever let it get to the point that air can get into the system. That involves more work. For the front I do this for 3-4 times refilling the reservoir, for one side, and 2-3 times for the other side. #-4 times for the rear. Be very careful not to get any brake fluid on the paint, it will make a mess of the paint, starting with taking the gloss off to eating it's way to bare metal if you leave it long enough. Cover the painted parts!

2) buy a vacuum brake bleeder. With this you can open the bleeder valve and suck the fluid out from the caliper. Make sure the reservoir doesn't ever get air and you are golden. This then is a one man job instead of 2 like above, but it also means you need to keep an eye on the fluid level, not the guy pulling the lever.

3) EZE Bleeder http://www.ezebleeder.net/
basically reverses the bleeding procedure by injecting fluid at the low point and filling the reservoir with old fluid. You need to be careful you don't overflow the reservoir. My personal feeling on this method is that while it makes a great deal of sense, I take issue with pushing whatever grunge may be in the caliper up through the ABS. The wheel caliper see the most heat and therefore would potentially hold the worst of deteriorated fluid.

4) Speed Bleeder http://www.speedbleeder.com/
Turns bleeding brakes into a mess free one man job. This is the best way IMHO.

As always, please get a manual and be 100% comfortable with the procedure before beginning.

 

Haha, don't confuse a question with inexperience. I have all the manuals and most of the tools with a full shop with 40 years of wrenching experience and I still ask questions.

I am just not sure how you are bleeding the system without hooking up to the HD computer (?). I've read that people have been bleeding by just keeping the system from charging up while doing so...

 

" I am just not sure how you are bleeding the system without hooking up to the HD computer (?). I've read that people have been bleeding by just keeping the system from charging up while doing so..."

A few have THEORIZED (no solid proof it works as hoped) that after bleeding the system in the old fashioned way, go out and ride and activate the ABS system several times, front and rear, bleed again. Repeat the whole process one more time and they are fairly confident the HCU also has fresh fluid in it. No present or former Harley technician or factory guy has ever indicated if this really works, or not.