Since I think I'm one of the first DIY'er to attempt this install, I'll use this thread to chronicle my install of the Motorcycle Metal 49mm triple trees. I'm in the middle of it all right now so I'll keep editing this post as it goes on.

To start, if this is something you want to do, your best bet is to contact Howard. I'll detail my personal experience with the installation, keeping in mind this is basically an Alpha run of this product. AFAIK Howard has been the only one to install these on several bike, after many years of prototyping and experience. I'm not new to a wrench or the front end of a bike, but I have nowhere near the experience of the creator with this product. The ordering process was akin to a vetting process. Howard believe greatly in his product and takes great pride in his work. He isn't about selling a product, he wants to make sure his creation is 100% successful and wants to make sure whoever is doing the install will be successful.

This install involves cutting and grinding on your frame. It involves installing front end components based on logic and knowledge of motorcycle suspension function, not reading an instruction sheet. It's a very simple process but isn't in line with existing Moco design idiosyncrasies and you won't follow an existing service manual for install or maintenance.

Now that is out of the way, we'll start with the install!

First step of the process is take the old crap off. This can be done with the manual. I pulled everything off down to the old bearing races.






My technique for removing the old races was to have my neighbor come in and throw a bead of weld down. This shrinks them enough to work them out with a screwdriver. New ones were put in the freezer, started with a rubber mallet then worked down SLOWLY with a brass punch to avoid distorting them.

At this point, we're ready to mock up the new triples. The frame mods happen to the locking plate behind the neck. It needs to be clearanced to allow the triple











In order to seal up the exposed metal I used gloss black spray paint. Instead of masking everything off to try and spray it from the can, I sprayed a small puddle and used a brush to brush it on. This saved all the time in masking and worrying about overspray on the bike while still using robust paint to protect the frame.

At this point, I've hit the first snag. These have been installed by Howard on newer frame bikes. The newer bikes all have the fork stop pads as part of the locking plate. The older bikes use a rubber donut around the fork that hits the frame and acts as a stop. Obviously these won't fit on the wider fork tube, and cutting them up to work would be a tedious task. Instead, my neighbor will be assisting by making some sleeves to install on the existing fork stop pins to increase their diameter, making up for the lack of a pad. Once these are done, I'll be sharing their specs with Howard to experiment with and perhaps they'll be the permanent solution for the older frame bikes.


Update #1

Update #2

 

This is going to be a great post - look forward to seeing how you get on and hearing about the end results!

 

Interesting so far.

 

Happy to see these come to market.

I'm having difficulty figuring out where you were grinding.

 

Looks like he took off the outer and lower edges of the fork lock plate. I assume that was necessary because of the larger diameter of the fork tubes.

 

Wow! A guy that can think in the abstract! Good thinking. The 2014's~current have a smaller locking plate due to the 49mm fork tubes. They would not fit using the older (41mm) locking plate. Just the sides. I am using a 2011 locking plate with the new fork stop and my model I was using (bought a 2000 Road King) but previously cut the thing off and through it away. I can be a moron sometimes. I will remove this fork and install my standard type 49mm fork & trees in this one. My plans are a super light (as possible) bagger using composite material where I can. So far this is a new crate 124 S&S w/ Spike 6 speed w/6.5 final, 7 gal. tank & my C/F wheels (not installed). I will run radial tires for the weight reduction. I need to purchase EFI but have a 2006 computer to run it. TJ316 is making a gorgeous bike for Daytona, but I wish to give him a little something to think about.

PS: the shocks on only on it so I do not scratch up my new #6's.

A pleasure having you Andreas here and thinking!!!

 

Now I see it.

 

Kind words - thanks, Howard! I've dealt with fork lock plate issues for a different reason when I pieced together my 1981. The front of my frame is 1981, the tail is 2010 and I think the fork lock plate is 2006. Cut it off a frame neck before it went back to the MoCo for a replacement frame.



I've been lurking in the dark looking at all the suspension posts for a while. I think you have developed a very useful product, Howard. I can't come up with enough money right now to do the whole thing. I know I would do both my baggers and that would cost a bunch. Hopefully business will go a little better this year so I there is some play money left when all the bills are paid....

 

Thanks for writing this up by the way, kingmoochr. Please keep it coming, I'm sure there are a lot of people interested in the progress of your project!

 

How much material did you have to get the tubes to clear the fork lock plate? My guess is you needed half of the increased diameter - 4mm or a little over 3/16" - if the center of the 49mm fork tubes is in the same place as the 41mm tubes.