Compensator maybe bad?
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Cruiser
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From: Arizona
Compensator maybe bad?
Good morning all. I know there are many threads on how to determine if a compensator is going bad and I have reviewed most of them and searched the web. Answers were all over the board.
My bike is a 12 rkc with 37000 miles. What I know is that it does not kick back or make noise when I start or shut down. I do get (what I think) is chain lash when I decelerate and accelerate quickly. Some one on this forum posted many years ago about holding the front brake, put the bike in 1st and slowly let the clutch out. If it makes a lot of noise it is the comp. I did this and compared against my neighbors identical 12 rkc and mine definitely makes more noise.
Does that sound like a bad comp or comp going bad or the chain tensioner or chain?
If it is I believe I can replace it myself but can't afford the baker. Is the SE comp a good alternative?
Also if you take the primary case completely off do I have to replace the main bearing?
Thanks
My bike is a 12 rkc with 37000 miles. What I know is that it does not kick back or make noise when I start or shut down. I do get (what I think) is chain lash when I decelerate and accelerate quickly. Some one on this forum posted many years ago about holding the front brake, put the bike in 1st and slowly let the clutch out. If it makes a lot of noise it is the comp. I did this and compared against my neighbors identical 12 rkc and mine definitely makes more noise.
Does that sound like a bad comp or comp going bad or the chain tensioner or chain?
If it is I believe I can replace it myself but can't afford the baker. Is the SE comp a good alternative?
Also if you take the primary case completely off do I have to replace the main bearing?
Thanks
Last edited by gilbert_roadking; Feb 1, 2016 at 10:08 AM.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
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From: Arizona
Thanks for the reply. I had seen that video, but the part that confused me and I guess still does is why the guy had to remove the inner primary case. He mentions that he is going to replace the rotor - if that is not necessary with the new SE comp then I guess the case can stay on????
Why would he replace the rotor? Is that something that is necessary when doing a comp change or just a nice to do?
Thanks!
Why would he replace the rotor? Is that something that is necessary when doing a comp change or just a nice to do?
Thanks!
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,471
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From: Charleston, SC
Thanks for the reply. I had seen that video, but the part that confused me and I guess still does is why the guy had to remove the inner primary case. He mentions that he is going to replace the rotor - if that is not necessary with the new SE comp then I guess the case can stay on????
Why would he replace the rotor? Is that something that is necessary when doing a comp change or just a nice to do?
Thanks!
Why would he replace the rotor? Is that something that is necessary when doing a comp change or just a nice to do?
Thanks!
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2015
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From: Arizona
Thank you for the information - much appreciated.
I am wondering if at 37000 miles it might not be a bad idea if I am replacing the comp to also replace the bearing and take a look at the clutch pack.
Not sure if the bearing is an item that has issues after 37000 miles though.
I am wondering if at 37000 miles it might not be a bad idea if I am replacing the comp to also replace the bearing and take a look at the clutch pack.
Not sure if the bearing is an item that has issues after 37000 miles though.
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From: Honah Lee
You have a spring loaded three finger drive that can rotate either direction about 30 degrees that is centered. It's purpose is to smooth the impulses of the uneven firing twin to improve seat of the paints filling. You are probably 1000lbs up riding. When you let off pretty quick or nail the throttle, it will wind up the comp. It will never wind more the 30 degrees but sure, you can fill it. That is normal. Most people complain about idle noise. That is also normal. Keep in mind, the comp protects little and that is why Harley went to the cush drive in the rear sprocket to protect.
I certainly would not worry about it. When you battery gets weak and low on cranking amps, you will start getting the bang. Especially if you have a piggy back tuner. That is normal also.
I certainly would not worry about it. When you battery gets weak and low on cranking amps, you will start getting the bang. Especially if you have a piggy back tuner. That is normal also.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Feb 3, 2016 at 07:15 AM.
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Cruiser
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From: Arizona
Thanks Ripsaw - good information.
I am replacing the factory auto chain tensioner with the Hayden M6 so I have to take the cover off anyway. Don't want to spend money unless I have to. Is there any way to know if the comp needs to be replaced by inspecting it?
Thanks again
I am replacing the factory auto chain tensioner with the Hayden M6 so I have to take the cover off anyway. Don't want to spend money unless I have to. Is there any way to know if the comp needs to be replaced by inspecting it?
Thanks again
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Charleston, SC
Thanks Ripsaw - good information.
I am replacing the factory auto chain tensioner with the Hayden M6 so I have to take the cover off anyway. Don't want to spend money unless I have to. Is there any way to know if the comp needs to be replaced by inspecting it?
Thanks again
I am replacing the factory auto chain tensioner with the Hayden M6 so I have to take the cover off anyway. Don't want to spend money unless I have to. Is there any way to know if the comp needs to be replaced by inspecting it?
Thanks again
You'll know what you need once you get in there. A worn comp is very obvious - lots of material missing etc.
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Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2015
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From: Arizona
The problem you are describing actually sounds like a loose primary chain and the M6 will help that. There are down sides to the M6 like it possibly being overly tight and noisy depending on what spring you run but all in all it serves ok.
You'll know what you need once you get in there. A worn comp is very obvious - lots of material missing etc.
You'll know what you need once you get in there. A worn comp is very obvious - lots of material missing etc.
Thanks again.
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Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Honah Lee
Good write up on the Hayden. Also how since it is not locked, to shim it correctly to prevent the possibility of having too much chain movement. The 3/8 call out is a lot less then the manual older Harley but is what I have seen on most of Harley's self adjuster when you push it hard enough to compress springs.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/tri-g...-adjuster.html
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/tri-g...-adjuster.html
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