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Well I am here seeking assistance. I am installing the Bat wing Mini Apes on a 2010 FLHX (street Glide). I have done everything and i am down to the clutch cable. I installed it, check the ball bearings to ensure they are in the grove, snap ring is seeded properly and i can still not get the transmission to disengage. Seems to always be stuck in gear and i cannot get it out. Please Advise.
You didn't lose the throwout bearing/rod when you had it apart did you? Its a rod with a slinger and bearing on the one end, its what the clutch cable inner ramp pushes against. Its number 29 in this photo. Also, make sure you have adjusted the clutch assembly, under the derby cover, first, then your cable.
That rod that you are talking about does spin freely if that is what you are asking. Other than that i am not sure what you are asking, and i have attempted to remove my derby cover but one of the torque bolts is giving me a hard time to remove. All I did was replace the cable not sure why i would have adjust the clutch.
Remove the derby cover and adjust the clutch, then adjust the cable. Make sure the cable is nice and lubed up and adjust it. Not finding neutral is all in adjusting it correctly.
I'd start off with taking the trans cover back off, making sure the bearings didn't fall loose, prohibiting your inner ramp from working properly. I don't see how they would if you installed the snap ring back properly, but if you don't want to take off the derby cover and try adjusting the clutch I don't know what else to recommend. But as guntoter said, I'd take the derby cover off and adjust the clutch.
The cable is teflon coated so i wont have to lube it, plus it is a brand new cable from the Harley, the only option i have left is adjust the clutch inside the derby cover, although one of the bolts are stripped from the dealer so that isn't helping my situation either. More to come as progress is being made.
Adjusting the clutch is required. The new cable is not stretched like the old one to say the least, depending on the brand of cable it may have different specs that need to be fine tuned at the adjuster. To remove your stripped screw, short of grinding a groove and a screwdriver they make an anti-cam out fluid that increases grip of a tool bit by 400% that could work, Sears and probably an auto supply store is a source.
I would to say thank you to all of you for helping me with this. The clutch situation has been figured out. I had to take every apart again and start from scratch then go through the whole process from start to end. The end result that the clutch situation is fixed.
Now i just need a head light bulb and to figure out why my fuel gauge doesn't read the amount of fuel inside the tank.
I will also say this, after completing the work my self i will never pay someone to work on my bike again. Knowing that i can do it my self.
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