When properly installed with any necessary washers for clearance, the center part of the Heim joint should be bolted tight. Then in all positions of the shift lever [all the way up, all the way down], the outer part of both joints [tightened to the rod] should swivel freely.


As previously noted, if something rattles, buy better Heim joints. Good ones are not cheap.

 

On mine, I added small nylon spacers on either side of the heim joints. No binding on the levers...

 

Time to hunt for some washers I think and have a little play with the spacing!

 

If you notice in "Fishrrman"s picture ( Post #12 ) , the linkage arm is not in a "neutral" position. You can see that it is "cocked". The shift linkage rod is not parallel to the arm. This puts it in a somewhat "binded" position to begin with.

 

Thank you I'll give that a try. I got the flhx streamline one from hd. Figured it would look better and be somewhat quality.

Batman

 

This is the whole purpose of using a Heim joint. Same idea when cars had drive shafts with U-joints. All that is necessary is to be sure there is no binding at any position of the shift lever.

 

Somewhat, but not the "whole purpose" ... As I stated "optimally" they function better when parallel ... and if the angle increases from the position shown it will definitely bind.

 

Only 2 causes, both covered above. The heim joints binding at one end or the other (or both) or the assembled rod length is too long and the front shift lever is hitting the foot board. You will have to look carefully to determine which it is.