Engine detonation and just runs like crap
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Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 70
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From: Ocala, Florida
Engine detonation and just runs like crap
Hi All,
I posted this in the exhaust tech forum but apparently not an appropriate forum so trying it here.
Sorry for the odd title but no other way to describe what's going on. My 2010 Limited (FLHTK) ran beautifully when I bought it in the fall of 2014 with about 35,000 miles on it. In late spring of 2015 I had a full Stage 1 done with Vance & Hines dual slashed slip on mufflers, screaming eagle air cleaner, de-catted and the screaming eagle street tuner installed.
Recently the bike has started to jump around like a dog crapping peach seeds, heavy detonation, tries to stall, lousy throttle response when attempting to keep it running and the bike shakes mercilessly when in stop and go traffic and it heats up. Of course I can imagine it is related to heat. Lately the temperature has been in the 60's - 80's and it "never" ran like this in the heat of the summer last year. This is in Florida. I have also been told it is the heat management system kicking in. BS. The worst it "ever" ran in stop and go traffic on 95 plus days in the summer wasn't anywhere near what I am experiencing now.
I have been told that I should expect to feel about 80% of the volume of air coming from the right muffler and the temperature of that air will be significantly hotter than the left. That pretty much describes what I'm noticing when I put my hand over the mufflers. Can anyone tell me if this is truly normal and expected?
If I cover the end of the right muffler shouldn't I feel a huge increase in volume and temperature coming from the left muffler?
I feel my issues are exhaust related so I posted to this forum.
Any advice, assistance or insight will really appreciated.
Thanks.
I posted this in the exhaust tech forum but apparently not an appropriate forum so trying it here.
Sorry for the odd title but no other way to describe what's going on. My 2010 Limited (FLHTK) ran beautifully when I bought it in the fall of 2014 with about 35,000 miles on it. In late spring of 2015 I had a full Stage 1 done with Vance & Hines dual slashed slip on mufflers, screaming eagle air cleaner, de-catted and the screaming eagle street tuner installed.
Recently the bike has started to jump around like a dog crapping peach seeds, heavy detonation, tries to stall, lousy throttle response when attempting to keep it running and the bike shakes mercilessly when in stop and go traffic and it heats up. Of course I can imagine it is related to heat. Lately the temperature has been in the 60's - 80's and it "never" ran like this in the heat of the summer last year. This is in Florida. I have also been told it is the heat management system kicking in. BS. The worst it "ever" ran in stop and go traffic on 95 plus days in the summer wasn't anywhere near what I am experiencing now.
I have been told that I should expect to feel about 80% of the volume of air coming from the right muffler and the temperature of that air will be significantly hotter than the left. That pretty much describes what I'm noticing when I put my hand over the mufflers. Can anyone tell me if this is truly normal and expected?
If I cover the end of the right muffler shouldn't I feel a huge increase in volume and temperature coming from the left muffler?
I feel my issues are exhaust related so I posted to this forum.
Any advice, assistance or insight will really appreciated.
Thanks.
Club Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 7,682
Likes: 8,414
From: Utah
Might add check for intake and exhaust leaks. Any Codes
http://www.fuelmotousa.com/p-29661-h...es.html#pcodes
and check the little black cap that covers the vacuum line on the top of the throttle body. #11 in the link
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....ION%20ASSEMBLY
Last edited by Vernal; Mar 20, 2016 at 10:52 AM.
Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 167
Likes: 3
From: Cornelius OR
First things first,
Remove the tuner and see how it runs.
Next is vacuum leaks, ignition secondary, and fuel pressure.
Then crank sensor, TPS, and temp sensor.
A bad crank sensor will not set a code.
A bad TPS will not always set a code.
A bad temp sensor will not always set a code.
Remove the tuner and see how it runs.
Next is vacuum leaks, ignition secondary, and fuel pressure.
Then crank sensor, TPS, and temp sensor.
A bad crank sensor will not set a code.
A bad TPS will not always set a code.
A bad temp sensor will not always set a code.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 70
Likes: 1
From: Ocala, Florida
Plug wires "appear" to be in great shape
New battery installed by dealer 3 days ago
Will check for moisture
Dealer dyno'd the bike several days ago and tell me everything is perfect. A bad coil should show here I would think
Thank you very much for taking the time to respond.
Just to satisfy my curiosity, is the difference in both volume and temperature accurately presented by the dealer staff??
Thank you.
Road Master
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 763
Likes: 15
From: New Jersey
I would be looking at the tuner also. If you have a bad tune it'll do a lot of what your saying. Just changing pipes and air box won't cause you all those issues. But you added a tuner. I'm not familiar with the screaming eagle tuner. I have a powervision. And if you flash a bad tune it can make you bike run rough and have poor throttle response.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 70
Likes: 1
From: Ocala, Florida
Good list.
Might add check for intake and exhaust leaks. Any Codes
http://www.fuelmotousa.com/p-29661-h...es.html#pcodes
and check the little black cap that covers the vacuum line on the top of the throttle body. #11 in the link
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....ION%20ASSEMBLY
Might add check for intake and exhaust leaks. Any Codes
http://www.fuelmotousa.com/p-29661-h...es.html#pcodes
and check the little black cap that covers the vacuum line on the top of the throttle body. #11 in the link
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....ION%20ASSEMBLY
My dealer just had it on the dyno and they tell me everything was as expected. I would certainly have to assume that things like intake leaks would show up. The bike runs great, plenty of power and feels good until heavy stop and go traffic and it heats up. After a few minutes of stop and go it gets to the point it will hardly run, loud detonation, shake violently and try to stall out. Turning off the "fuel management system" has no effect when all this begins. These symptoms just started a couple of weeks ago and sort of just came out of nowhere about 2 weeks ago.
Thanks for your response and suggestions. "MUCH" appreciated.
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Thread Starter
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Advanced
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 70
Likes: 1
From: Ocala, Florida
Thanks for the response.
Thread Starter
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Advanced
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 70
Likes: 1
From: Ocala, Florida
First things first,
Remove the tuner and see how it runs.
Next is vacuum leaks, ignition secondary, and fuel pressure.
Then crank sensor, TPS, and temp sensor.
A bad crank sensor will not set a code.
A bad TPS will not always set a code.
A bad temp sensor will not always set a code.
Remove the tuner and see how it runs.
Next is vacuum leaks, ignition secondary, and fuel pressure.
Then crank sensor, TPS, and temp sensor.
A bad crank sensor will not set a code.
A bad TPS will not always set a code.
A bad temp sensor will not always set a code.
Please correct me if I am wrong.
Thank you.