Clutch adjusting the easy method
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,476
Likes: 193
From: Las Vegas, NV
The difference between a 1/2 turn and a full turn (or anywhere in between) will change the engagement point at the lever. I can't remember but I think that the more you back out the adjuster screw the closer to the grip the clutch engages. I usually put mine a little over a half turn out. It depends on what you like. Some people like it close to the grip, other people more toward the end of travel.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 5,977
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From: Nevada
The difference between a 1/2 turn and a full turn (or anywhere in between) will change the engagement point at the lever. I can't remember but I think that the more you back out the adjuster screw the closer to the grip the clutch engages. I usually put mine a little over a half turn out. It depends on what you like. Some people like it close to the grip, other people more toward the end of travel.
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,652
Likes: 5
From: The sticks in SC
The Hippo clutch adjust method
I don't claim credit for this: It comes from "Hippo" who was a HD Mechanic on the MSN, HTT Tech Talk site but I use it over the HD Shop Manual procedure.
As long as you have opened up Derby cover to check oil level, this procedure makes the clutch adjustment a little quicker IMO.
1. Loosen the clutch cable adjuster and shorten the cable sleeve as much as possible, but don’t mess with the lever. Just leave it alone until the 3rd step.
2. Loosen the lock nut on the clutch pack push rod adjuster.
3. Pull in the clutch lever. It should touch the handle bar grip. If it does not touch the handle bar grip back out the push rod adjuster at the clutch pack while keeping pressure on the clutch lever until it touches the handlebar.
4. When the clutch lever touches the handle bar turn in the push rod adjuster while keeping pressure with your hand on the clutch lever. When you turn in the adjuster it will start to push the lever off the handle bar. Back the adjuster out until the lever returns to just touching the handle bar. Do this a couple of times until you know you are at the point where the lever is just touching the bar. When you find this point - back the adjuster out 1/2 turn and lock it down.
5. Adjust the clutch cable to 1/8 slack and lock it down. A nickel works great for this
Buy yourself a cheap 11/16 deep well socket and weld a nut on top of it. This makes the perfect tool for the adjuster lock nut as you can then use an allen wrench inside the socket to prevent the adjuster screw from turning with the nut. Makes it a lot simpler. ( Note from Green Hornet..I use a big pair of curved jaw lockjoint pliers cranked down on the 11/16 socket)
I don't claim credit for this: It comes from "Hippo" who was a HD Mechanic on the MSN, HTT Tech Talk site but I use it over the HD Shop Manual procedure.
As long as you have opened up Derby cover to check oil level, this procedure makes the clutch adjustment a little quicker IMO.
1. Loosen the clutch cable adjuster and shorten the cable sleeve as much as possible, but don’t mess with the lever. Just leave it alone until the 3rd step.
2. Loosen the lock nut on the clutch pack push rod adjuster.
3. Pull in the clutch lever. It should touch the handle bar grip. If it does not touch the handle bar grip back out the push rod adjuster at the clutch pack while keeping pressure on the clutch lever until it touches the handlebar.
4. When the clutch lever touches the handle bar turn in the push rod adjuster while keeping pressure with your hand on the clutch lever. When you turn in the adjuster it will start to push the lever off the handle bar. Back the adjuster out until the lever returns to just touching the handle bar. Do this a couple of times until you know you are at the point where the lever is just touching the bar. When you find this point - back the adjuster out 1/2 turn and lock it down.
5. Adjust the clutch cable to 1/8 slack and lock it down. A nickel works great for this
Buy yourself a cheap 11/16 deep well socket and weld a nut on top of it. This makes the perfect tool for the adjuster lock nut as you can then use an allen wrench inside the socket to prevent the adjuster screw from turning with the nut. Makes it a lot simpler. ( Note from Green Hornet..I use a big pair of curved jaw lockjoint pliers cranked down on the 11/16 socket)
Last edited by gilbos440rt; Mar 24, 2016 at 02:04 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Centennial, CO
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Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 2,021
Likes: 260
From: Seattle
Yup the hippo method. Guess I could have included a link, but hippos method is posted as under the title easy method all around the internet so I thought it was well known. I tried the book method over and over again...didn't work out but I think my plates were just stud together and I needed to warm up the engine for them to disengage. Anywho ended up using hippos method. So I guess I am wondering... If you back out a quarter turn then the clutch will begin to disengage earlier in lever pull where as 3/4 turn it will begin to disengage more towards the grip. So does that mean full disengagement will occur out from the grip or close to the grip as well or does that adjuster screw just affect amount of travel clutch lever needs to get full engagement???get me?
