Clutch adjusting the easy method
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 20,616
Likes: 4,440
From: anacoco, la
that's why I change the primary fluid and do the clutch adjustment first. after that, i'll warm the bike up and change the engine oil.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,156
Likes: 11,244
From: San Diego, CA
The Hippo clutch adjust method
I don't claim credit for this: It comes from "Hippo" who was a HD Mechanic on the MSN, HTT Tech Talk site but I use it over the HD Shop Manual procedure.
As long as you have opened up Derby cover to check oil level, this procedure makes the clutch adjustment a little quicker IMO.
1. Loosen the clutch cable adjuster and shorten the cable sleeve as much as possible, but dont mess with the lever. Just leave it alone until the 3rd step.
2. Loosen the lock nut on the clutch pack push rod adjuster.
3. Pull in the clutch lever. It should touch the handle bar grip. If it does not touch the handle bar grip back out the push rod adjuster at the clutch pack while keeping pressure on the clutch lever until it touches the handlebar.
4. When the clutch lever touches the handle bar turn in the push rod adjuster while keeping pressure with your hand on the clutch lever. When you turn in the adjuster it will start to push the lever off the handle bar. Back the adjuster out until the lever returns to just touching the handle bar. Do this a couple of times until you know you are at the point where the lever is just touching the bar. When you find this point - back the adjuster out 1/2 turn and lock it down.
5. Adjust the clutch cable to 1/8 slack and lock it down. A nickel works great for this
Buy yourself a cheap 11/16 deep well socket and weld a nut on top of it. This makes the perfect tool for the adjuster lock nut as you can then use an allen wrench inside the socket to prevent the adjuster screw from turning with the nut. Makes it a lot simpler. ( Note from Green Hornet..I use a big pair of curved jaw lockjoint pliers cranked down on the 11/16 socket)
I don't claim credit for this: It comes from "Hippo" who was a HD Mechanic on the MSN, HTT Tech Talk site but I use it over the HD Shop Manual procedure.
As long as you have opened up Derby cover to check oil level, this procedure makes the clutch adjustment a little quicker IMO.
1. Loosen the clutch cable adjuster and shorten the cable sleeve as much as possible, but dont mess with the lever. Just leave it alone until the 3rd step.
2. Loosen the lock nut on the clutch pack push rod adjuster.
3. Pull in the clutch lever. It should touch the handle bar grip. If it does not touch the handle bar grip back out the push rod adjuster at the clutch pack while keeping pressure on the clutch lever until it touches the handlebar.
4. When the clutch lever touches the handle bar turn in the push rod adjuster while keeping pressure with your hand on the clutch lever. When you turn in the adjuster it will start to push the lever off the handle bar. Back the adjuster out until the lever returns to just touching the handle bar. Do this a couple of times until you know you are at the point where the lever is just touching the bar. When you find this point - back the adjuster out 1/2 turn and lock it down.
5. Adjust the clutch cable to 1/8 slack and lock it down. A nickel works great for this
Buy yourself a cheap 11/16 deep well socket and weld a nut on top of it. This makes the perfect tool for the adjuster lock nut as you can then use an allen wrench inside the socket to prevent the adjuster screw from turning with the nut. Makes it a lot simpler. ( Note from Green Hornet..I use a big pair of curved jaw lockjoint pliers cranked down on the 11/16 socket)
I'm sure Hippo knows more than me, but, after reading this method for the first time, it sure doesn't seem any easier to me than the Service Manual method....????
This method does everything like the manual, except for Step 4. Step 4 uses the lever & the grip as a guide to set the clutch tension. It sure seems like more work & more time than just adjusting the nut (tension) once as per the manual.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 6,175
Likes: 1,966
From: Great State of Canada
Interesting... I've never heard of Hippo, nor this method before.
I'm sure Hippo knows more than me, but, after reading this method for the first time, it sure doesn't seem any easier to me than the Service Manual method....????
This method does everything like the manual, except for Step 4. Step 4 uses the lever & the grip as a guide to set the clutch tension. It sure seems like more work & more time than just adjusting the nut (tension) once as per the manual.
I'm sure Hippo knows more than me, but, after reading this method for the first time, it sure doesn't seem any easier to me than the Service Manual method....????
This method does everything like the manual, except for Step 4. Step 4 uses the lever & the grip as a guide to set the clutch tension. It sure seems like more work & more time than just adjusting the nut (tension) once as per the manual.
This internal clutch adjustment will be a new trick for this old dog too but I dare say that if you print out the Hippo procedure, by the time you get the lock nut cracked at the clutch spindle, you'll have all the experience and confidence necessary to execute the Hippo procedure in its entirety. JMO.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 14,438
Likes: 2,421
From: Pittsburgh, Pa
I tried the manual and I don't think I did it right I want to do it again, so maybe the hippo way is better for me. I am not sure the "feel" for when to back out and then do the 1/4 - 1/2 turn. Maybe I need to be with someone doing it so I know the feel. Maybe that is why I like the hippo way better....
Road Master
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 799
Likes: 25
From: Milan,Tennessee
I have used this method alot.its just another tool in the box, another way to skin the cat..lol..I couldn't get my clutch like I wanted it after a few mods were done, tried it this way and got it,never know till you try.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 14,731
Likes: 2,536
From: Mountain Top, Alabama
Slack in the cable adjuster, half a turn out at the clutch, a nickel slack at the lever to finish, and I am on my way. That's my easy method, and works out to my liking.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 2,083
Likes: 247
From: Tulsa, OK
Follow the manual instructions, easy peasey. I could do my street glide in under 10 minutes. Now I don't have to mess with it on the RGU
That being said.
The less you back the adjuster away from the rod the further away your clutch begins to disengage, but once the clutch gets all warmed up if you didn't back it off far enough you risk the clutch not fully engaging.
I found 3/8 of a turn is where I liked to be cold 1/4 a turn off when I did it hot. But I liked my clutch to disengage as early as possible to give me the widest possible friction zone.
Conversely if you back it off too much moving the disengagement point further back to the grip you risk dealing with a clutch that doesn't fully disengage want's to pull hard at a dead stop and is difficult to shift.
That being said.
The less you back the adjuster away from the rod the further away your clutch begins to disengage, but once the clutch gets all warmed up if you didn't back it off far enough you risk the clutch not fully engaging.
I found 3/8 of a turn is where I liked to be cold 1/4 a turn off when I did it hot. But I liked my clutch to disengage as early as possible to give me the widest possible friction zone.
Conversely if you back it off too much moving the disengagement point further back to the grip you risk dealing with a clutch that doesn't fully disengage want's to pull hard at a dead stop and is difficult to shift.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,476
Likes: 193
From: Las Vegas, NV
Either is fine but fluid may leak when on the jiffy stand. Upright is easier. If you don't have a way of keeping the bike upright a small piece of wood under the Jiffy stand will help. If you're changing the fluid the bike should be upright to get the correct fluid level.