Inner Primary Bearing Replacement
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Road Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 855
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From: Puyallup, WA
Inner Primary Bearing Replacement
My 08 Road King is sounding like the inner primary race/bearing is going out again. sounds similar to the last time but doesn't see to get any louder when bike is in gear or clutch is engaged or not. I just started hearing the whining sound so maybe I'm just catching it at the beginning of failure. I have a SE Compensator on my workbench so I'm already going to be pulling the inner primary cover and will be right at the race. Going to replace the race, inner primary bearing, and all gaskets/fasteners associated with the primary including a new o ring for the starter. I do have a couple questions.
1. My shifter shaft feels fine now but since I'm there should I just replace the seal or leave it as is.
2. Is there anything else I should replace while I'm there.
3. What is the best race / Inner Primary bearing combo to use to replace.
4. Lastly has anyone done this without the installation tool. I'll probably just buy one but if I can save money I'm all for it.
I've read about the baker and all ***** race-less bearings, but they are for bikes up to 07 (from what I have read). I've also read about the S&S but can't seem to primary bearing for my SKU:560-0241.
Thanks in advance for your help.
1. My shifter shaft feels fine now but since I'm there should I just replace the seal or leave it as is.
2. Is there anything else I should replace while I'm there.
3. What is the best race / Inner Primary bearing combo to use to replace.
4. Lastly has anyone done this without the installation tool. I'll probably just buy one but if I can save money I'm all for it.
I've read about the baker and all ***** race-less bearings, but they are for bikes up to 07 (from what I have read). I've also read about the S&S but can't seem to primary bearing for my SKU:560-0241.
Thanks in advance for your help.
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From: Vermont
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Escondido, CA
$52.00 for a main shaft bearing race, ............c'mon man. Everything thing the OP said is right on but I sure as heck do not believe you need to spend 10 times more than the Harley main shaft race costs. WTF? I did this recently and I might have spent 50-60 bucks for the race puller/installer but certainly no where near that for the race......I don't get it.
Last edited by HOGNOT; Apr 11, 2016 at 06:32 PM.
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Road Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 855
Likes: 1
From: Puyallup, WA
DAWG Thanks for the info on the S &S Bearing. I did not see this one on their site.
HOGNOT - I was thinking the same thing. The only thing nice about the S&S from what I have read is that it is tapered on one end to eliminate the race from walking. Did you replace the shifter shaft seal or transmission main shaft bearing.
HOGNOT - I was thinking the same thing. The only thing nice about the S&S from what I have read is that it is tapered on one end to eliminate the race from walking. Did you replace the shifter shaft seal or transmission main shaft bearing.
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 401
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From: Escondido, CA
DAWG Thanks for the info on the S &S Bearing. I did not see this one on their site.
HOGNOT - I was thinking the same thing. The only thing nice about the S&S from what I have read is that it is tapered on one end to eliminate the race from walking. Did you replace the shifter shaft seal or transmission main shaft bearing.
HOGNOT - I was thinking the same thing. The only thing nice about the S&S from what I have read is that it is tapered on one end to eliminate the race from walking. Did you replace the shifter shaft seal or transmission main shaft bearing.
I replaced the shifter shaft seal since I was in there, but it wasn't leaking that I could see(40K miles). I also replaced the primary main shaft bearing, seal and main shaft race. I did not see any indication that the transmission side of the equation needed any more work. It's been a few thousand miles since a new race, primary bearing, Barnett clutch plates, Harley auto chain adjuster and Baker Compensator, new seals, gaskets, etc............runs great, quiet, no slams....no bangs.....no squeals.....no slips.....I can find neutral with total ease....... Only thing thing I wonder about is if I should have spent $200.00 for the Baker chain adjuster. I only spent $100.00 for the Harley auto adjuster......because I'm cheap, sort of. Time will tell if being economical was a mistake.
PS I've heard tell that the Harley automatic chain adjuster is the cause of many problems....the reason the bearings and race are damaged, etc. I did not like the idea of having to remove the primary cover and adjust the Baker chain adjuster every 5 -7500-10,00 miles.....I'm old and lazy......but the auto chain adjuster might be the source of our problems....? Race walking........there was no sign of the race moving on the shaft.......it was beat up and so was the bearing.........but hell's bells the race was on there so fricking tight I don't think walking is an issue for 99% of the cases you hear about.
Last edited by HOGNOT; Apr 11, 2016 at 07:22 PM.
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 401
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From: Escondido, CA
I am sending my awesomely powerful and postive brain waves your way in hopes that your auto adjuster works as it should!
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Road Captain
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 577
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From: Reno
Originally Posted by clarkchriston
1. My shifter shaft feels fine now but since I'm there should I just replace the seal or leave it as is.
Originally Posted by clarkchriston
2. Is there anything else I should replace while I'm there.
Originally Posted by clarkchriston
3. What is the best race / Inner Primary bearing combo to use to replace.
Originally Posted by clarkchriston
4. Lastly has anyone done this without the installation tool. I'll probably just buy one but if I can save money I'm all for it.
For me... Hayden M6 was the way to go. I'm pleased.
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Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 855
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From: Puyallup, WA
Thanks for the replies everyone. I have a question regarding reinstalling the race. I guess I'm not quite understanding the pvc method. The other thing is knowing how far to seat the race (when to stop). I know the service manual says 0.100-0.125 in. (2.540-3.180 mm) from main drive gear. Is it that simple or does the tool really make it that much easier to set the distance. The other nice advantage of the S&S race is it simply says to tighten the race onto to the mainshaft to 35 ft/lb (if I remember correctly).
Road Captain
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 577
Likes: 20
From: Reno
I'm not sure nor confident of the S&S race application of torque when there is a set point away from the final gear drive which the race should sit. You do not want your race to EVER be in a position to where you can not slip the removal tool behind it.
Having said that... I bought a large washer (largest internal diameter I could find at home depot)... end up rounded the ID out a little so it would slip onto the mainshaft and then I made two cuts from the OD to the ID so once the race made contact with the washer... I could simply slide the washer off the mainshaft. Worked like a champ and saved myself big money in the process.
I have also used a one piece sealed slip on inner primary bearing (no race to press onto the mainshaft) and yes... it can be used and works great but not applicable to your post.
Also... while you have the primary off... now would be a good time to open (conically) the orifice which feeds oil to the bearing.
Having said that... I bought a large washer (largest internal diameter I could find at home depot)... end up rounded the ID out a little so it would slip onto the mainshaft and then I made two cuts from the OD to the ID so once the race made contact with the washer... I could simply slide the washer off the mainshaft. Worked like a champ and saved myself big money in the process.
I have also used a one piece sealed slip on inner primary bearing (no race to press onto the mainshaft) and yes... it can be used and works great but not applicable to your post.
Also... while you have the primary off... now would be a good time to open (conically) the orifice which feeds oil to the bearing.