Brake Experts Needed
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Tourer
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 264
Likes: 29
From: DFW
Brake Experts Needed
I'm looking for some ideas.....
I installed a front wheel off an 07 CVO Road King on my 05, these use the V-Rod style rotors so I popped for a new pair of Galfer DF821PW and I did not see anything listed as to using Galfer pads so I used pads I have used with the factory rotors, new Lyndall Z-Plus pads to go with the Brembo/touring calipers I also installed.
After installation I puttered around for several miles, initial bite was unbelievable compared to stock, they would put you over the handlebars if you wanted. Today I go out for a ride and eventually the bike starts losing power and I have to downshift, then pull over but I have no front brakes, solid lever, and the rotors are almost glowing, when I get it stopped the pads are on fire, literally. After letting it cool down I crack the bleeders and pull some pressure off, the lever pulls like normal and continued to be that way the rest of the day, albeit at a greatly diminished braking force.
Looking for some answers as to why?
These have new pads, rotors, lines, rebuild master cylinder after powder coat, used Brembo calipers. Bench bled the master cylinder, used a Mi-T-Vac to bleed, left lever pulled in overnight, tapped all the lines with a rubber mallet, I did it all.
What gives? Did I miss something? Both sides are/were hot, I find it hard to believe that both calipers stuck?
Are these rotors turnable to get them back in shape, they have less than 60 miles on them and they don't feel warped which I'll attribute to their thickness, I don't get any pulsing when using the brakes.
I'm a little at a loss here.
I installed a front wheel off an 07 CVO Road King on my 05, these use the V-Rod style rotors so I popped for a new pair of Galfer DF821PW and I did not see anything listed as to using Galfer pads so I used pads I have used with the factory rotors, new Lyndall Z-Plus pads to go with the Brembo/touring calipers I also installed.
After installation I puttered around for several miles, initial bite was unbelievable compared to stock, they would put you over the handlebars if you wanted. Today I go out for a ride and eventually the bike starts losing power and I have to downshift, then pull over but I have no front brakes, solid lever, and the rotors are almost glowing, when I get it stopped the pads are on fire, literally. After letting it cool down I crack the bleeders and pull some pressure off, the lever pulls like normal and continued to be that way the rest of the day, albeit at a greatly diminished braking force.
Looking for some answers as to why?
These have new pads, rotors, lines, rebuild master cylinder after powder coat, used Brembo calipers. Bench bled the master cylinder, used a Mi-T-Vac to bleed, left lever pulled in overnight, tapped all the lines with a rubber mallet, I did it all.
What gives? Did I miss something? Both sides are/were hot, I find it hard to believe that both calipers stuck?
Are these rotors turnable to get them back in shape, they have less than 60 miles on them and they don't feel warped which I'll attribute to their thickness, I don't get any pulsing when using the brakes.
I'm a little at a loss here.
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 191
From: Boise, Idaho
Did you fill the master cylinder while the lever was pulled in? I'm thinking the system could have been overfilled if, you filled the master cylinder and installed the cover while the lever was pulled in. When the lever got released there wouldn't have been room for the additional fluid. This could have kept pressure on the brake pads. It's just a thought.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,036
Likes: 65
From: Earth
That will make for a bad day. If this were the case the brakes would not have worked for the rest of the day once he bleed some fluid to free them up.
As you know brakes are so simple, but so misunderstood by some.
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Tourer
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 264
Likes: 29
From: DFW
Zero chance on mixed fluids, always DOT4 and it was a dry system to start with other than the calipers which should have been DOT4 from the factory. I ran three master cylinder fills through it before I called it good also.
This is interesting. I don't remember filling while it was pulled in, but I do remember vacuum bleeding after releasing. It was filled with the reservoir level and not at the max fill line.
I'm more worried it didn't happen again the rest of the day than it only happening the one time. Brand new Harley rebuild kit, should be fine as far as that goes but I could always throw another kit at it if I thought that was the problem.
Did you fill the master cylinder while the lever was pulled in? I'm thinking the system could have been overfilled if, you filled the master cylinder and installed the cover while the lever was pulled in. When the lever got released there wouldn't have been room for the additional fluid. This could have kept pressure on the brake pads. It's just a thought.
I'm more worried it didn't happen again the rest of the day than it only happening the one time. Brand new Harley rebuild kit, should be fine as far as that goes but I could always throw another kit at it if I thought that was the problem.
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Just curious. Wheel lifted, is there any drag?
Is there any chance that any of the piston cylinder has any powder coating on the area causing binding?
Just grasping for possibilities.
I wouldn't put new kits in unless I saw damage, but I would remove the calipers, tear them down, inspect, clean, and reassemble --of course with a good bleed. Also after being that hot the rotors may have glazing, warpage, cracks, or hard spots, reducing drag - stopping performance.
Test and retest before taking off too far.
Is there any chance that any of the piston cylinder has any powder coating on the area causing binding?
Just grasping for possibilities.
I wouldn't put new kits in unless I saw damage, but I would remove the calipers, tear them down, inspect, clean, and reassemble --of course with a good bleed. Also after being that hot the rotors may have glazing, warpage, cracks, or hard spots, reducing drag - stopping performance.
Test and retest before taking off too far.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,747
Likes: 419
From: Vermont
Just had one come in the shop that the plunger was in backwards on front master. Burned up new rotors and brake pads.. If u had I will hard lever. The brakes were dragging . I also saw this one time before with axle not in all the way. . Forks were bound a bit but rotors were not centered in calipers. Toss the rotors there junk. U need to rebuild the calipers also.....very easy . Sorry but it's gonna cost u