What would you do-why?
Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 1,962
Likes: 140
From: NY
I'm buying an ultra. This will be my 5th Harley and I've been set on the Uktra for awhile. I've narrowed the search down to two bikes but need some input from those that have been there and done that. It's splitting hairs at this point, so a little extra sway from Uktra owners might help steer me in the direction of one bike.
First - 2010 ultra classic $15,000 9,900 miles. Screaming eagle stage 2 installed with 255 cans. Makes it a 103 that i understand is more potent than the stock 103, or so I've heard. V&H , and tuner.
Second bike- 2012 ultra classic $15000 6000 miles. Stock 103. Rush exhaust and power commander, otherwise stock.
Do I go for newer with less miles or a little older with not many more miles and the motor upgrades? What would you?
Btw- ones dark blue ones black so not a major difference their either.
First - 2010 ultra classic $15,000 9,900 miles. Screaming eagle stage 2 installed with 255 cans. Makes it a 103 that i understand is more potent than the stock 103, or so I've heard. V&H , and tuner.
Second bike- 2012 ultra classic $15000 6000 miles. Stock 103. Rush exhaust and power commander, otherwise stock.
Do I go for newer with less miles or a little older with not many more miles and the motor upgrades? What would you?
Btw- ones dark blue ones black so not a major difference their either.
1st off,when talking 6k or 10k miles that such lows miles on either bike it make no diff at all to bother talking about so pout that to rest.
If you just talking buying either of those 2 bikes its hands down the 2012 for the same money/$15k because its 2 yrs newer and is mostly stock accept for stage 1 type mods that many HD owners install for the same so little less likely to be abused/beat on vs the 2010 with larger top end installed with perf cams too thats may be bit high on price from seeing a few clean 2010's not sell in $12.5-13k range.
The 2010 has had money put into it for new top end & perf mods but it doesnt increase book value in most people eyes .
And also keep in mind adding that type perf mods to the 2010 means the bike will be very likely hammered on more more then avg too because guys that dont hammer their bikes & or need more power don't normally add cams and larger displacement top end just to ride conservatively most of the time & not hammer it fairly.
Of the those bikes it would a no brainer to go with the 2012 for me.
BTW,i see some rec for you to try for 2014's,well i dont think you will normally see low mile mint cond stock or stage 1 only moded 2014 Ultra's going for 15k unless there's a reason like being a high mile bike for the yr or someone has to make a quick sale due to needing money for an emergency or divorce,etc.
Scott
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 3,784
Likes: 100
From: Pasadena TX
Whichever one is black, but that's just me. I'm kidding of course, I'd go with fewer miles and years. The fewer years will make a difference on the other end if you decide to sell or trade.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 10,216
Likes: 224
From: Glendale AZ
I'd go with the one with the least mod to the motor since you really wont know how the motors been run especially one with cam work. Why should cam work be a cautionary tale your wondering? I had cam work done on my 98 DWG and used to run that engine like I stole it and from my experience so do most folk. Do you want to buy a bike that's been run like that? just sayin'.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 117
Likes: 4
From: Houston Pa
Thanks to everyone for the input. The reasonable thing to do is to buy the newest bike possible with the lowest miles. Now you have me thinking spending a little more to get into the new twin cool is the way to go...
Road Warrior
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,274
Likes: 130
From: Now Western TN
I'd go with the one with the least mod to the motor since you really wont know how the motors been run especially one with cam work. Why should cam work be a cautionary tale your wondering? I had cam work done on my 98 DWG and used to run that engine like I stole it and from my experience so do most folk. Do you want to buy a bike that's been run like that? just sayin'.
Just humble opinion
But to answer the OP, I would go with the 12, 2 years newer, same price. But I wouldn't worry about the minor mods to the 10 either.
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Road Master
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 763
Likes: 15
From: New Jersey
I bought a 2014 road King in August of 2014 for 15000 off the floor at Harley. I know it's not an Uktra but there's deals out there. But for you I'd go with the newer ride and make your own additions, especially if you do your own wrenching. Good luck