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I was having issues similar to OP this past week or two, replaced Engine Temperature Sensor and have not had any issues since, I think that part was like $38 so if anything it's a good place to start!
Ditto--'10 SG. Ran fine at highway speed, but around town it would die if not throttled, and it would blow black smoke (rich). Often would rev to 3K and gradually come down. The computer was going bonkers trying to adjust to the engine temp sensor failure. It apparently ignores those signals at highway speed. Forty bucks and twenty minutes later, all golden. Threw a bunch of codes too...confusing.
yes very confusing I am not getting any codes. did u do an ohm test on the sensor? if so did it fail the tests or read good. I checked mine and all the test ice water was 9.750k and boiling was right on also. when yours would act up could u cut it off and crank it back up and it run right again?
Review these two area's.
Do not purchase anything untill you test it.
Idle speed control actuator 27272-95a
Also, any chance at all that you touched or something was near the wires for the crank sensor (starts near oil filter) or some melting going on with cam sensor (in the cone).
I will guess that when this happens you have the clutch pulled and are giving no throttle.
Since the engine is at zero throttle then it must drop to idle but instead it stalls unless given some gas.
Go look at the Idle speed control actuator 27272-95a for movement.
Review these two area's.
Do not purchase anything untill you test it.
Idle speed control actuator 27272-95a
Also, any chance at all that you touched or something was near the wires for the crank sensor (starts near oil filter) or some melting going on with cam sensor (in the cone).
I will guess that when this happens you have the clutch pulled and are giving no throttle.
Since the engine is at zero throttle then it must drop to idle but instead it stalls unless given some gas.
Go look at the Idle speed control actuator 27272-95a for movement.
yes clutch pulled in and it dies down. I checked the isca and it is functioning, I adjusted the warm idle up to 1050 and it helped but bike acts like it is on 1 cylinder at this point and it is affecting the bike through the rev range, I can feel the bike being held back like it is not breathing properly. I put a spark tester on it rear cylinder then front, when it is dying it is still sparking like a champ on both cylinders. bike seems really hot on the rear cylinder. it was 240 on rear and 200 on front. after a few minute while I found the thermometer.
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