What kind of Ohlins are these? How should I adjust them?
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Joined: Jun 2015
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From: Vancouver, BC
What kind of Ohlins are these? How should I adjust them?
Hey guys,
I'll start off by saying, I'm a bit of a noob when it comes to touring bikes.
I had a Fatbob before and recently traded up for 2012 FLHX to accommodate riding with the OL and more storage capacity. I purchased the bike previously loved and the PO had done a handful of tasteful mods.
VH ProPipe, Dynojet Power Commander, and to my surprise, Ohlins adjustable shocks.
As I put more miles on the bike 2 up, I recently the suspension is definitely out of adjustment for this type of riding. It handles great solo, but I noticed when the OL is on the back we bottom out over larger bumps or railroad tracks, or rough road surfaces.
I have taken pictures of the shocks in hopes that someone can point me in the direction of adjustment. I weigh about 225 and the OL is around 140. I travel light, but she usually brings full riggin in her purse and some extra clothes.
I know these should be fantastic shocks and would love to experience them properly adjusted. As much as I don't enjoy it, I usually ride with the Tour Pak attached, unless I'm solo.
Also wondering if I can buy any old spanner wrench for the adjustment, or does it need to be a specific type.?
Ride On!
Kyle
I'll start off by saying, I'm a bit of a noob when it comes to touring bikes.
I had a Fatbob before and recently traded up for 2012 FLHX to accommodate riding with the OL and more storage capacity. I purchased the bike previously loved and the PO had done a handful of tasteful mods.
VH ProPipe, Dynojet Power Commander, and to my surprise, Ohlins adjustable shocks.
As I put more miles on the bike 2 up, I recently the suspension is definitely out of adjustment for this type of riding. It handles great solo, but I noticed when the OL is on the back we bottom out over larger bumps or railroad tracks, or rough road surfaces.
I have taken pictures of the shocks in hopes that someone can point me in the direction of adjustment. I weigh about 225 and the OL is around 140. I travel light, but she usually brings full riggin in her purse and some extra clothes.
I know these should be fantastic shocks and would love to experience them properly adjusted. As much as I don't enjoy it, I usually ride with the Tour Pak attached, unless I'm solo.
Also wondering if I can buy any old spanner wrench for the adjustment, or does it need to be a specific type.?
Ride On!
Kyle
Road Captain
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 610
Likes: 62
From: White Bear Lake, MN
I can see that your shocks have three different adjustment features, they are:
1--preload threaded ring on the top of the spring
2--damping adjustment wheel at the bottom of the shock body
3--ride-height adjustable threaded bottom mount, held fast by a blue locknut
The preload ring takes a pin-tool that fits into the holes around the threaded ring, and should be set to a certain amount of tension based on the spring and your load. Static sag is a common term used to describe a good starting place, and you can find a lot of information online that will get you in the ballpark. If it handles great solo already, then you're not too far off. When I switch from solo to fully-loaded for two weeks and two-up, I add a couple of turns of preload.
The damping adjustment wheel at the bottom is the black thing that clicks when you turn it. It slows down the springing action of the assembly in both directions the more you turn it in like you're tightening it. The ride gets firmer the more you turn it in, and softer the more you turn it out.
And the ride-height adjustment simply changes the overall length of the shock, within a small window of adjustment. There will be a groove in the threaded portion that screws into the bottom of the shock body, which should indicate the limit of overall length. It is wise to not exceed this visual limit.
This is my experience with Ohlins shocks on mine, if someone has more to share, please do.
All the best,
Shane
1--preload threaded ring on the top of the spring
2--damping adjustment wheel at the bottom of the shock body
3--ride-height adjustable threaded bottom mount, held fast by a blue locknut
The preload ring takes a pin-tool that fits into the holes around the threaded ring, and should be set to a certain amount of tension based on the spring and your load. Static sag is a common term used to describe a good starting place, and you can find a lot of information online that will get you in the ballpark. If it handles great solo already, then you're not too far off. When I switch from solo to fully-loaded for two weeks and two-up, I add a couple of turns of preload.
The damping adjustment wheel at the bottom is the black thing that clicks when you turn it. It slows down the springing action of the assembly in both directions the more you turn it in like you're tightening it. The ride gets firmer the more you turn it in, and softer the more you turn it out.
And the ride-height adjustment simply changes the overall length of the shock, within a small window of adjustment. There will be a groove in the threaded portion that screws into the bottom of the shock body, which should indicate the limit of overall length. It is wise to not exceed this visual limit.
This is my experience with Ohlins shocks on mine, if someone has more to share, please do.
All the best,
Shane
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 78
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From: Vancouver, BC
I can see that your shocks have three different adjustment features, they are:
1--preload threaded ring on the top of the spring
2--damping adjustment wheel at the bottom of the shock body
3--ride-height adjustable threaded bottom mount, held fast by a blue locknut
The preload ring takes a pin-tool that fits into the holes around the threaded ring, and should be set to a certain amount of tension based on the spring and your load. Static sag is a common term used to describe a good starting place, and you can find a lot of information online that will get you in the ballpark. If it handles great solo already, then you're not too far off. When I switch from solo to fully-loaded for two weeks and two-up, I add a couple of turns of preload.
The damping adjustment wheel at the bottom is the black thing that clicks when you turn it. It slows down the springing action of the assembly in both directions the more you turn it in like you're tightening it. The ride gets firmer the more you turn it in, and softer the more you turn it out.
And the ride-height adjustment simply changes the overall length of the shock, within a small window of adjustment. There will be a groove in the threaded portion that screws into the bottom of the shock body, which should indicate the limit of overall length. It is wise to not exceed this visual limit.
This is my experience with Ohlins shocks on mine, if someone has more to share, please do.
All the best,
Shane
1--preload threaded ring on the top of the spring
2--damping adjustment wheel at the bottom of the shock body
3--ride-height adjustable threaded bottom mount, held fast by a blue locknut
The preload ring takes a pin-tool that fits into the holes around the threaded ring, and should be set to a certain amount of tension based on the spring and your load. Static sag is a common term used to describe a good starting place, and you can find a lot of information online that will get you in the ballpark. If it handles great solo already, then you're not too far off. When I switch from solo to fully-loaded for two weeks and two-up, I add a couple of turns of preload.
The damping adjustment wheel at the bottom is the black thing that clicks when you turn it. It slows down the springing action of the assembly in both directions the more you turn it in like you're tightening it. The ride gets firmer the more you turn it in, and softer the more you turn it out.
And the ride-height adjustment simply changes the overall length of the shock, within a small window of adjustment. There will be a groove in the threaded portion that screws into the bottom of the shock body, which should indicate the limit of overall length. It is wise to not exceed this visual limit.
This is my experience with Ohlins shocks on mine, if someone has more to share, please do.
All the best,
Shane
Also didn't know which way to turn the damping **** to achieve firmer/softer.
I emailed Ohlins directly about information about adjustment and instructions but they never got back to me. I wasn't able to find what I needed on the website.
I have one question about the spring preload. I assume when people say increase pre load that they mean tighten the adjustment collar therefor compressing the spring tighter. For some reason that seems counter intuitive to take spring out of the system when weight is added?
Is that what you refer to. Looking at the shock from above, turn collar clockwise to make the spring smaller when more weight is on the bike?
At any rate, thanks for all the good info Shane!
Kyle
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 5,888
Likes: 1,902
From: East Coast, USA
They look like Ohlins HD 159 with the stock 00280-21 spring.
Spring length: 200 mm
Spring Rate: 25 N/mm
Ohlins Spring Preload Tool, part number: 03199-01
From the manual
Unlock the nylon screw on the spring adjuster with a screwdriver (5A). Use tool (03199-01) and turn the spring adjuster clockwise to increase the preload (5B), turn counter clockwise to decrease it.
https://www.ohlins.com/app/uploads/w...MI_HD159_6.pdf
https://www.ohlins.com/app/uploads/w...M_07241-02.pdf
Spring length: 200 mm
Spring Rate: 25 N/mm
Ohlins Spring Preload Tool, part number: 03199-01
From the manual
Unlock the nylon screw on the spring adjuster with a screwdriver (5A). Use tool (03199-01) and turn the spring adjuster clockwise to increase the preload (5B), turn counter clockwise to decrease it.
https://www.ohlins.com/app/uploads/w...MI_HD159_6.pdf
https://www.ohlins.com/app/uploads/w...M_07241-02.pdf
Last edited by LQQK_OUT; Aug 16, 2016 at 03:00 AM.
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Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 671
Likes: 168
From: Ontario, Canada
Nobody said they were simpler, just better.
My wife complained once about the extra 3 minutes going from solo to 2up so I offered to put the air shocks back on. She sits patiently now. She says the difference is worth it.
I have the HD022 (2-2b) the OP has the 159 he should be able to get an even better ride then mine and mine are great!
My wife complained once about the extra 3 minutes going from solo to 2up so I offered to put the air shocks back on. She sits patiently now. She says the difference is worth it.
I have the HD022 (2-2b) the OP has the 159 he should be able to get an even better ride then mine and mine are great!
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Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Terlton, Ok
I have one question about the spring preload. I assume when people say increase pre load that they mean tighten the adjustment collar therefor compressing the spring tighter. For some reason that seems counter intuitive to take spring out of the system when weight is added?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 78
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From: Vancouver, BC
Your shocks have a limited amount of up and down movement. Ideally, you want your shocks to be about 1/3 compressed when you are riding. This allows the shock to move in both directions to smooth out your ride. The spring isn't meant to absorb bumps, it is there to compensate for added weight so that the shock compresses the proper amount. So the more weight that you put on the bike, the more you have to compress the spring to keep the shock in its sweet spot.
Now to find a pin C spanner wrench, hopefully they are more common then I think, I don't recall ever seeing them at the local hardware stores.