Raked Trees and Inverted Forks
Big Bear choppers been around awhile they went under after the chopper craze crashed, Was bought out and new owner kept Kevin around.
Looks like a nice setup, Kraus motor co has a nice setup also.
For anyone to make a statement that they have a "custom raked tree to correct (HD touring) steering geometry" is ludicrous. Reduce the trail, the bike will turn better (in retrospect) but will be less stable than the original 7.6" to the M-8 with 6.8" of trail. The reason why the steering stem is in front of the forks is: The friction of the tire will always push the forks thus push the fork/tire straight requiring much less feedback mile after mile. If you wanted handling to where this effect is non-existent than a steering stem behind the forks is your only design choice. The steering is much lighter and turning is effortless V/S a very heavy steering that requires a lot of effort and input. That is what makes the steering stem in front of forks such a good high millage touring design. The longer rake helps the bike to track straight, look at any long forked, poorly designed chopper. Goes down the road straight and effortlessly, however you need two (2) flagman to stop traffic in the parking lot so the chopper can leave bike night.
Use your search on the internet and you will find that the many Big Bear choppers had their neck crack and fall off and BBC did nothing to warranty their street legal, registered, and plated bikes they sold to the general public. So much for Kevin's suspension skills. Standing by their product with actual engineering is non-existent. Google is your friend, read than talk. Neither companies, using the same machine shop have actual engineers or metallurgists working for them like HD does in their design.
There are many factors to consider when thinking of installing an inverted fork on a high raked bike which are all HD's. An inverted fork may or may not have great internal components. Inverted forks are far from equal from one brand to another. The next is the bushings and replacement of them. If you have a good fork such as the KYB style which has captivated bushings that requires specialized tools and a trained technician to replace them. I personally know of no one in S. Fla who does this other than myself. I do not know everything, however prior to purchase, get to know your guy. All touring bikes and Dyna's require the fork bushings to be replaced every 10K miles. Anyone who disputes this needs to actually take your fork apart if you have 20K miles and inspect your fork tubes for shinny spots where your Teflon coating on the bushings have worn off and the steel/brass carriers (bushings) have worn through the hard chrome into the softer steel fork tubes. Replace your bushings or replace your fork tubes, your choice. This means is if you want performance there is maintenance involved.
Fast pictures:
Unlike a Showa design the bushings are captivated inside of the slider and the micro polished fork tube slides up and down on the bushings. Much less resistance than sliding up and down an aluminum slider and far more precise.
My inverted set of triple trees that is made of: Bottom 17-4 PH Stainless Steel and top 7071 T6. These are the same trees that I use on my 49mm W/ Ohlins NIX 30mm fully adjustable forks. My trees fit on all models including the Road King Nacelle. This model tree is designed for 1986 ~ 2013. The 2014~Current requires a different bottom triple tree and steering stem.
This is what a steering stem in front of your fork looks like on your 1986~Current design.
This is my Steering stem behind the forks with 4" of trail. This is a 10 year old proven design. More steering input is required but handles corners much better than the OEM Steering Stem in fornt of the forks. This comes down to what do you want to use your bike for?
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Still have to put my Trac swingarm and rear brake setup on but it has been in the rack long enough, Time to ride.
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