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Choosing pipes

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Old Oct 29, 2016 | 06:44 AM
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Default Choosing pipes

First, I posted this in the exhaust tech forum and no responses, so I thought I'd try here. If a mod decides it's not appropriate, just delete it, otherwise it'll be a double post over in the exhaust tech section... Now, on to the post:


I have some questions about pipes for my 16 FLTRSX. Coming from Dyna's, the only question was 2:2 vs 2:1, with 2:1 being the performance winner, and some feeling that the 2:2 was the looks winner. I personally care more about performance then looks, so I want with a supertrapp on my last two.

Not that I have my first touring bike, I'm seeing 2:1:2's, "true dual's" and of course 2:1. I figure true dual's are basically 2:2's for baggers. If so, not interested. So 2:1:2 vs 2:1 seems to be the question.

To save money, and spread out the cost, I was considering getting the fuelmoto e-series slip on's. I'm a fan of fuelmoto stuff, and the e-series look like they will keep the volume where I want it, along with some performance gains.

Then a little ways down the road I could pick up their stainless jackpot 2:1:2 head pipes and get my dyno done. This route will cost me $479 for the slip on's, $474 for the head pipes down the road, and $200 for a license for my power vision.

So $680 now, and another 500 over the winter, and will give me a good system keeping the appealing dual pipe look for a total cost of about $1200 (not sure if buy the tune license, and the pipes from fuelmoto gives me their support of free maps, so that's a consideration I have to check)

Or I could just pick up their e-series 2:1 pipe and a power vision for their combo deal of $1000 and I'm done. I get a second power vision I can leave mounted on the road glide for the additional gauges, but I lose the look of dual pipes on the bike. Does seem like the better deal.

Like I said earlier, im usually not as concerned with looks vs performance, but on the bagger I feel a little differently. Not sure how I'll like the single pipe. Sigh.

Now that my long-winded opening is done, here are the real questions.

1) is there any real benefit to putting slip on's leaving the factory head pipes (and cat) on the bike. Will of course have a stage 1 a/c and a tune in any case.

2) is there any performance benefit of a 2:1 vs 2:1:2 (other then weight savings)

3) is running a tune that lowers the AFR going to hurt the cat, or make it really hot, if I leave the factory head pipes on?

4) is it worth putting a dynojet tune on an otherwise factory exhaust (if I hold off on pipes entirely) and only a stage 1 a/c (HD ventilator in my case)

Thanks, I appreciate anyone who has made it this far through this essay!
 
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Old Oct 29, 2016 | 06:57 AM
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You will not notice any real difference in 2-2 or 2-1 long as you do not go the true dual route. True duals cost you torque no tune will fix that . The 2-1-2 headers and HD scavenging design give you a great mix of both.
Take a look at the HD version of the super traps Night Sticks or fatshozts . Tunable to your needs .
Had them on a couple bikes.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2016 | 07:27 AM
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I'll address #4 - tune it now. Pay for the license, and make changes as you upgrade. You already know how bad & lean the stock tune is. It would be the first $ I spent - and I did, first think I did for my FLHP was FP3. I'm still stock, but the V&H tune for a stock Rushmore is still an improvement.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2016 | 07:33 AM
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Some companies like D&D and Rush for example sell a "ghost" to go with their 2/1 set up. They'll usually set you back $250 - $350
 
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Old Oct 29, 2016 | 07:51 AM
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1) is there any real benefit to putting slip on's leaving the factory head pipes (and cat) on the bike. Will of course have a stage 1 a/c and a tune in any case.
Typically pickup 10-12% from this over all stock, some from the mufflers, some from the AC, some from the tune.
2) is there any performance benefit of a 2:1 vs 2:1:2 (other then weight savings)
Some 2-1s pull the torque up sooner (but are very loud).
3) is running a tune that lowers the AFR going to hurt the cat, or make it really hot, if I leave the factory head pipes on?
More fuel going into a cat, the hotter it gets. Cheap solution is to get it decatted.
4) is it worth putting a dynojet tune on an otherwise factory exhaust (if I hold off on pipes entirely) and only a stage 1 a/c (HD ventilator in my case)
IME, every bike runs better after a tune
Thanks, I appreciate anyone who has made it this far through this essay!
 
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Old Oct 29, 2016 | 08:30 AM
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There's a nice Drago 2/1 for sale in the classifieds. That's a great 2/1 set up for performance and sound. Its basically a Rush pipe. You could get a ghost for that pipe too if need be.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2016 | 09:35 AM
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Complete sidebar - but the S&S headpipe is a 2-1-2 pipe which looks like a 2-2 (see sig pic)

I had Rinehart's on the stock pipes, which lead to the comment above.
Getting a tuner, between stock and fully modded, is always a good thing.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2016 | 09:57 AM
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Unless you want to race your touring Bike, stick with the 2-1-2 exhaust system, IMO.

Most feel the first thing to do is get rid of the Catalytic Converter, and get a tuner of some type.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2016 | 10:02 AM
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I think you'll be happy with the 2-1-2 on the 103HO. You'll notice that it is essentially a 2-1 performance as the left pipe is only doing about 30% of the work of the right side pipe. I agree on a bagger I prefer the two pipe look and sound as well. Mine hustles extremely well as is.

Even with the cat in the header my bike picked up strong performance with just a tune for sure, but it absolutely added heat. Now that it's cooled off into the fall temps here in SoCal it's not a problem, and in summer it was rideable if I didn't get stuck in traffic, but after a year with my '16 RK - the cat is going this winter.

As for pipes, I got some decidedly non-performance oriented Bassani DNT slip-ons which were supposed to kill the low end performance, but it still rips over the stock tune and pipes. The cat is likely helping a bit actually in this case and the pipes sound perfect...but the heat has GOT to go even if it means new mufflers.

If I had it to do over again, I'd start with the Jackpot header and a good tune leaving all else as is. This way is the cheapest, and many have reported liking the sound of the stock mufflers with a catless header. Also, our '16 AC is basically a high flow already for our stock 103HO motors. If you wind up wanting different sound or performance down the road it's easy to swap muffs and retune.
 

Last edited by Thingfish; Oct 29, 2016 at 10:07 AM.
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