ok, my 2005 Electraglide classic may or may not have a issue. Hoping someone can help me. When i start the bike it will run briefly at the 12-14 volt area then will go up to 16 volts for about 30 seconds (which makes my radio go bat **** crazy) then returns to the normal voltage and will stay there unless i shut it off. once shut off it goes through the same thing again. Any ideas? I think voltage regulator but need to fix soon cause i'm starting to worry about it burning up something when the voltage is high.

 

Make sure your connections are good at starter and battery and main ground. Sound's like regulator. Obviously something is not telling it what the voltage is.

I'ed probably throw a new battery at it also unless a good charge on it and then a check says it's OK at three different places since AutoZone and the other free checks are notoriously sorry from junk equipment.

 

I have tried the connections on starter and battery. the battery is new. I keep leaning to the regulator myself. only reason i started to second guess cause someone swore it would be rectifier and Stator. But in my experience when those go bad the voltage goes down not up.

 

American Iron had a good article on how to check the charging system a few months back. Maybe try to Google it.

 

Just tried to find it but not on their site. but i can do some searches at other sites and see what they come up with.

 

I did find this, if anyone else needs the info.
http://blog.jpcycles.com/step-by-ste...arging-system/

 

Run the electrical system test for a/c and d/c with a digital voltage handheld meter and not the dash gauge.
Revisit the 4 ends of your battery cables. Tight?
How do your battery cables look? clean, insulation perfect and not broken?
Check the grounding point.
How are the wires connections before the regulator and after the regulator.
Is your radio grounded?
There have been several posting in the past of a broken ground inside the fairing.

 

everything looks good, put a wrench to everything and tight, good cables, no broken insulation. the connections for the VR look good and clean. Haven't checked inside the fairing.

 

Generally when the Stator fails voltage drops. When the Regulator fails voltage could go up. Below is some information I saved for testing your charging system. I hope it helps.

Testing:

Connectors and cables should be checked and cleaned first. Loose and corroded connectors, terminals and grounds can cause high resistance, impeding current flow. Check cables for broken or rubbed insulation and check continuity to make sure the conductor is not broken inside the insulation.
Coating connectors with dielectric grease will keep moisture out and reduce corrosion.
Use the schematics in the HD Electrical Diagnostic or Service manual to determine the location of additional connectors.


Battery testing:
First check and clean battery terminals, Battery cables and ground connections. To check cables, disconnect one end and Ohm out, wiggle while testing. Cables can and will corrode and the evidence can be concealed under the insulation.
If you are unsure of the battery’s condition charge it fully and take it to an auto parts store and have it load tested.
Voltmeter test:
Connect voltmeter positive to positive terminal on battery and voltmeter negative to battery negative terminal.
12.7 v = 100% charge
12.6 v = 75%
12.3 v = 50%
12.0 v = 25%
11.8 v = 0%
Watch the battery voltage when you start the bike, if a fully charged battery falls below 9.6 volts it’s time to replace it.
If a well charged battery runs down if the bike sits for a short time perform a current draw test. Set your meter to read 10 amps current. Pull your main fuse and insert the meter leads. Here’s a list of components and what current they will draw in milli amps, (1/1000 of an amp) from the 2015 manual:
LHCM 0.5
RHCM 0.5
Speedometer/ IM 0.5
Regulator 1.0
ABS 1.0
BCM 1.0
ECM 1.0
Security Siren 20.0
Radio 0.5
Amplifier 0.5
CB Module 0.5

If the Battery passes all tests check the charging system.
Charging System Testing:
Volt meter set to DCV 20V scale or higher.
With the bike in neutral and voltmeter attached to the battery, start the engine and rev to 3,000 rpm. If the voltage measures 13V – 14.7V the charging system is operating properly. If less than 13V test the Stator first. If Greater than 15V test the Voltage Regulator.

Stator testing
Turn the bike off and disconnect the Stator from the Voltage Regulator.
Testing a 3 phase Stator, (A single phase stator is tested in the same manner but the plug will only have 2 sockets).
The end of the connector from the stator has 3 sockets. Set your meter to ohms and connect one lead to the battery negative. With the other lead make contact with the conductors inside each socket. You are checking for a grounded coil winding, each socket should show an open circuit to ground, no continuity.
Now take both meter leads and check resistance between each of the three sockets, 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. The resistance should be 0.1 – 0.3 ohm.
Next check the Stator’s AC output. Set the meter to ACV 100V scale. With the Stator unplugged from the VR and the bike in neutral, start the bike. Run the bike at 2,000 rpm and check the Stator output between sockets 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. The voltage should read approximately 32-46 Volts AC, for the 50 amp Stator. Stators with other Amp ratings will be similar.
If the Stator continuity tests to ground and Phase to Phase are good but the output is not the Rotor may be bad.

One other indication that the stator may be bad is if your primary oil smells like a burnt circuit board.

Voltage Regulator Testing

Voltage readings of 14.8V and higher indicate the Voltage Regulator is bad.
If the output is less than 13V from the Voltage Regulator to the battery and the Stator output is good, disconnect the output cable from the VR to the Battery. Check continuity between the Voltage Regulator Positive wire and the battery Positive and the negative wire and battery negative. Repair or replace cable if needed. If the cables are good and the Stator tested well replace the Voltage Regulator.