Inverted forks on a Road King
Thanks
Sam
There are 3 persons on this forum who used my triple tress and 49mm forks w/30mm cartridges on this forum with no issues. Same trees but different bore in the trees. I pass my design to a mechanical engineer than a metallurgist for final approval. In this case we make a investmant cast mould and pour it in Oregon. We than machine the bottom tree, and make the rest of trees & parts here in Boca Raton. We use 7071 T6 upper & 17-4 PH bottom. I have the steering stem welded in the bottom tree and a separate top bolt steering stem due to the accuracy needed with a raked triple tree and straight through (not on angle) fork tube mounting unlike other offerings. The bottom tree is recessed above the bottom of the steering neck for a longer stroke option so the fender does not hit the tree. I engineer my parts and do not just drill holes in a chunk of aluminum.
I worked on my new set of Ohlins forks yesterday, working out ABS sensor clearance and centering the calipers/rotors on the hub as we use radial calipers where horizontal caliper spacing is not possible. The key lock works like stock. I will put on my Nacelle when I go to the shop next. I will also install this fork onto my own Road King. I have several new KYB inverted forks with either axial or radial caliper mounting and all have 25mm KYB fully adjustable cartridges in them. Here is an example of the trees and Road King nacelle installed.
I will be at work Monday and may put the nacelle on the assembly and snap a picture. The fork stop works as stock on your 2013. I started working on the ABS module at quitting time Wednesday (shorter day). There will be no difference in handling between the 49mm fork and Ohlins inverted fork goes as both have the same rake & trail.
Sorry for the bad picture. But this is my 49mm forks with a Road King nacelle with everything aligning up as it should be.
Last edited by FastHarley; Nov 30, 2016 at 06:48 PM.
The next thing is to make a set of prototype brackets to secure the fender to the forks. I than stepped back to visualize and took pictures. The brackets were made out of aluminum 1/2" rod & 3/16 aluminum plate, welded together and after yanking it decided it will work and all spacing and rigidity was physically tested. After that part I took pictures to digest the design for a few days (Christmas). This is what it looked like. I am using a 8 ounce FLT look a like front fender because I want the wheel to move up and down with as least weight as possible. These are C/F wheels that weigh in at 2.4# (F) and 2.7# (R). The holes are where they need to be and it is correctly spaced out to the center of the wheel. It looks like ****. Fab & draw 6 Hrs.
When I firt started designing this whole package I wanted one size fits all FLT Batwing, FLT Roadglide, Road King, using any working FLT 41mm, 49mm, and either Ohlins specific inverted fork or OEM specific inverted fork. I have many 49mm forks with 30mm Ohlins NIX cartridges so I already know how these will handle over a 3 year period. all headlight angles are the exact same and my kits require about 15min. of motorcycle modifications that most riders can handle. Because of the larger diameter forks they just can not fit and the locking plate must be trimmed on the frame.
Session 3. Look and go back to basics as the aforementioned fender bracket must be stylized by first marking the least amount of stressed points to hold the fender on at speed. Now draw circles where those points must be. Change the angles and mass. Now figure out how to manufacture it where it looks the best to me. No skulls or HD Bar & Shield. What is the least amount of weight without creating drag. I have it on MasterCam. 3 hours.
I will use a combination of waterjet and machine parts made all out of polished stainless that is welded together as one unit. I have to wait until after the holidays for those people to come back to work.
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