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Adjusting progressive shocks

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Old Dec 31, 2016 | 07:45 AM
  #11  
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My experience with the 444's has been that they need to be broken in by riding.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2016 | 08:00 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by nevada72
My guess is you're bottoming out the shocks. Who told you to get that spring rate?

On compression tools - this is the one you want. You'll need it to change out the springs to the right ones for you.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As has been mentioned, the threads can get gunked up (even when new). It's best to take them apart and clean and (dry) lube the threads. Makes it a lot easier to adjust.
Bob hit it on the head with this one. Get the tool, take the springs off, clean and lube the threads. Sooner than later; lest you jam some dirt and/or **** up the threads. If you need a strap wrench to turn the collar you're beating up the threads.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2016 | 08:15 AM
  #13  
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Progressives do break in somewhat, but the main thing I have learned about Progressive is they recommend too light a spring rate. I know it sounds counter-intuitive, but on a progressive rate spring, the little bumps are soaked up by the lighter rate aspect of the spring. But, if you are adding a lot of preload, or inducing a lot of sag from body weight, that lighter rate gets used up and you are left with the firmer aspect of the spring. Factor in that you are probably at a reduced travel, and it will feel like a hard shock.

I weigh 210 and run the same spring rate as you and my bike rides like a magic carpet. Well, at least compared to the way it was before. Anyway, Progressive talked me into getting the 90/130 springs to start with. Way too soft and bottomed constantly. Furthermore, to get sag I used up damn near all the preload adjustment, so I was never in the sweet spot of the spring rate. I called them up and had a set of HD springs sent (115/155) and life is good. BTW - do not mess with strap wrenches when the perfect tool is available. It turns a chore into a very easy process. Progressive should sell that wrench with every pair of shocks because it is absolutely essential just to maintain and clean the shock. If those threads are dirty, the collar turns hard. It shouldn't. It should be like butter.

So for you - you need to see where you're at. I would dial back preload all the way. Then, wrap a zip tie around the shaft of the shock, just below the shock body. Go out for a ride on a bumpy road and take look at where that zip tie is. My guess is it's crushed into the rubber shock bumper at the bottom. Keep adding preload - I would say 4 turns in your case, and repeat. In the end the zip tie should not be touching the rubber bump stop - just a hair above it. If you can not achieve that, you are in the wrong spring rate.
 

Last edited by nevada72; Dec 31, 2016 at 08:17 AM.
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Old Jan 1, 2017 | 06:44 AM
  #14  
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Thought the OP said the ride was to stiff, not to soft and bottoming out.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2017 | 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by d24112
My experience with the 444's has been that they need to be broken in by riding.
Most brands of new shocks will get better after a few hundred miles in the saddle. We need to ride much further than round the block to find out how good they really are!
 
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Old Jan 1, 2017 | 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by d24112
Thought the OP said the ride was to stiff, not to soft and bottoming out.
He did. But from what I know of Progressive 444s and that spring rate vs his weight my guess is he's using about an inch of travel and bottoming it out, which to some, could feel like a stiff shock. I could be wrong.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2017 | 01:35 PM
  #17  
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I think Progressive's guide for suspension spring rate is too universal. They should have a spring rate guide just for HD touring, including differentiating with a tour pack or not.
I bought a 444 13" standard rate for a 14 Street Glide Special. I weight in at around 200lbs. Their guide is very specific and mention the change over weight to an HD spring to be at 220lbs. Well, I put the new shocks (standard rate) in and when I dropped the bike on its rear wheel, the bike sagged automatically to 1"1/4 down. That was without saddlebags or anything else for that matter.
I was about 4 to 5 lines on the shocks before the bike raised back to full extension, and 8-9 lines (full) pre-load to get about 1" sag (with my weight), without saddle bags. So I've tried riding with full pre-load with my saddlebags on and I bottom out like crazy. I'm now returning those shocks to get HD spring ones (thru Amazon... great service that way).

I do ride 2-up sometime, with a detachable tour pack and sometime a trailer for long trip. I hope the HD spring will be able to all this.

Hope this help for anyone looking at buying 444 in the future.

Mike G
 
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Old Sep 7, 2017 | 02:06 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by mikygspot
I think Progressive's guide for suspension spring rate is too universal. They should have a spring rate guide just for HD touring, including differentiating with a tour pack or not.
I bought a 444 13" standard rate for a 14 Street Glide Special. I weight in at around 200lbs. Their guide is very specific and mention the change over weight to an HD spring to be at 220lbs. Well, I put the new shocks (standard rate) in and when I dropped the bike on its rear wheel, the bike sagged automatically to 1"1/4 down. That was without saddlebags or anything else for that matter.
I was about 4 to 5 lines on the shocks before the bike raised back to full extension, and 8-9 lines (full) pre-load to get about 1" sag (with my weight), without saddle bags. So I've tried riding with full pre-load with my saddlebags on and I bottom out like crazy. I'm now returning those shocks to get HD spring ones (thru Amazon... great service that way).

I do ride 2-up sometime, with a detachable tour pack and sometime a trailer for long trip. I hope the HD spring will be able to all this.

Hope this help for anyone looking at buying 444 in the future.

Mike G
This was my same experience and I'm about the same weight. I can't imagine why Progressive recommends the spring rates they do.

We found the HD spring to be fine for two up and a tourpack - 7 turns, and also fine for around town without the pack - 5 turns. They do make a "SD" spring you might want to consider. look up rwven's thread on that for more info.

BTW - make sure to get the Progressive spring removal tool to avoid upsetting the neighbors with all the cussing coming from your garage if you were to try it without it.
 
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