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Old Feb 23, 2017 | 12:06 AM
  #1  
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Default Dear Klock Werks...

After trying other windshields and reading reviews on your "flare" style windshields, I opted for the 8.5" for my Ultra. The look is killer, and the way it keeps the front end planted is as advertised. But the turnulence it created at my forehead and at the top of my helmet above 50 mph is unbearable. It was like my head was in a paint shaker!
So I opted for the 11.5" and just installed it today. A quick ride rendered satisfying results wind-wise, but now I look through the warped and distorted windshield and the top edge is directly in my primary field of vision.
One is too short, the other too tall...
Any chance you are considering a 10" flare windshield?
Signed,
"Goldie Locks"
 
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Old Feb 23, 2017 | 12:21 AM
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Cut down the 11.5" windshield to the exact height you want.

 
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Old Feb 23, 2017 | 12:21 AM
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the helmet could be a big part of your experience.

the only helmet i have ever had which does not bobble is a HD branded 1/2 with a ducktail.

for the most part i do not wear helmets and have less problems than other riders it seems.
a much smaller surface area and less "leverage" on the pivot point ( neck)


I control the air in the cockpit with fairing wing vents I can direct air into the fairing at waist level, that helps the pressure differential and can smooth.

I also cut my windscreens to size. many of us cut windscreens on the bottom, hidden, edge with a rotozip, dremel or jigsaw.

that can give you the "just right"

mike
 
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Old Feb 23, 2017 | 04:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Bone Doc
Cut down the 11.5" windshield to the exact height you want.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dV0KZsxyz90
Cut yours from the bottom though. Put your stock shield on top and trace it as a template. This will keep the flare and hide any raw edges/imperfections.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2017 | 08:42 AM
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Cutting the windshield at the bottom eliminates the holes that secure around the screws. Is there enough "lip" to be clamped by the two sides of the windshield channel of the fairing?

With regard to the helmet and deflectors mkguitar, the non-use of a helmet is not an option, and it seems that my 1/2, 3/4 and full all experience the turbulence. I do, however, have the adjustable fairing deflectors and may experiment with those to reduce the low pressure zone in the "cockpit."

Thanks for all suggestions!
 
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Old Feb 23, 2017 | 09:31 AM
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Trace and re-create the holes. Might be easiest to drill the holes first and then cut.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2017 | 09:52 AM
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Three little letters and also a site sponsor LRS in case you didn't know but that's for LONG RIDE SHIELDs cant go wrong with them Price and function are both outstanding IMO.
 

Last edited by DamifIknow; Mar 9, 2017 at 09:29 AM.
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Old Feb 23, 2017 | 10:18 AM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by tphillips
Cutting the windshield at the bottom eliminates the holes that secure around the screws. Is there enough "lip" ...
yes, in fact I cut my keyholes wider/ open at the bottom so that I can quickly swap windscreens.

I sometimes swap seats, when i do, i swap windscreens to match my seated height.


i'm ok if you choose to wear a hard hat- the one I mention is the only one ever that doesn;t bobble in the wind- it's the ducktail I suppose.

maybe the helmet shops need to have a leaf blower when you try them on


Mike
 
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Old Feb 23, 2017 | 10:34 AM
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Having been through this myself with my 14 SGS the two things that have helped is a Long Ride Shield 8.5 re-curve and believe it or not the fork fangs from HD. I initially put the fangs on for cold weather riding but they work so well at reducing wind turbulence that I have left them on. I have slowly gotten used to the look. Seriously though I quit smoking in December but could actually smoke a cig will riding they make that much of a difference.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2017 | 10:51 AM
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I'm another LRS fan - great product and you can get in a plethora of heights...
 
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