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Looks awesome.. But... The reason why U should disconnect the battery using the YouTube video or not.. Is because even when cutting the wires.. That pos and negative could on Murphys Law run up against each other and short God Knows what out.. Just sayin.. And then U'll be kicking yourself for not doing somethin that would have taken 3 minutes lol and now is costing U hundreds of $$$ and time to fix.
if you disconnect the gauge prior to cutting the connector off there is nothing to short. Unless you try to cut the wires while still plugged in, but in that case you shouldnt touch wrenches at all lol
if you disconnect the gauge prior to cutting the connector off there is nothing to short. Unless you try to cut the wires while still plugged in, but in that case you shouldnt touch wrenches at all lol this is really 10-minute job.
if you disconnect the gauge prior to cutting the connector off there is nothing to short. Unless you try to cut the wires while still plugged in, but in that case you shouldnt touch wrenches at all lol
this is really 10-minute job.
Why cut the connector off, why not just de-pin it?
if you disconnect the gauge prior to cutting the connector off there is nothing to short. Unless you try to cut the wires while still plugged in, but in that case you shouldnt touch wrenches at all lol
Risers are tough due to the nacelle arrangement. You have to change the cover to allow risers to extend up from the bushings. I did this when I put 14 Wild1 MX bars, which look like T-bars. So no clamps, straight bolts to the bushings and straight up.
Youd have to do the same for any risers taller then the 1 stock clamp.
Looking down the bars to the nacelle
Did you have to get rid of the handle bar lock when you installed your risers?
Why cut the connector off, why not just de-pin it?
you can spend all that time depinning it if you want. I didnt plan to sell the stock gauge (who would want it anyways) so to save time I just cut the connector off. New gauge comes with a connector so you dont really need the old one.
Just reinstalled my blacked out stand and bracket. Not too bad for a hand sanding and rattle can job. When it starts cracking I will remove it and hit the sand blaster and visit a powder coater later on.
Stock chrome setup. Sanded and ready for paint.
Painted and installed.
Finally put it back together. Rode around the block, abs and brakes work, but Im still going to take it to the dealership to perform brake lines flush.
Not sure if I want to keep handlebar speakers. 6.5 RFs in the lowers seem to work just fine.
you can spend all that time depinning it if you want. I didn’t plan to sell the stock gauge (who would want it anyways) so to save time I just cut the connector off. New gauge comes with a connector so you don’t really need the old one.
All the time, I know time is money but it takes all of 15 seconds to depin that connector…. Plus that gauge is the same gauge used on 95% of the HDs on the road, so there are plenty of folks that would/could use it, but het that’s just me.
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